|2008-06-01||start rudder||I fabricated the rudder spar and ribs. Deburred and colecoed together. I tried several primers noting the self etch from UAP peeled off the cocave part of the rudder skin when it was bent. I have a self etch from another parts supplier which seems to work much better. I used gunwash to remove all the UAP primer and redo.|
|2008-06-08||Finished rudder||I Rivited the rudder skin, wrapped it for storage and put it away.|
|2008-10-28||install spar doubblers||Install spar doublers. Adjust to 7 degrees. Drill for rivets. One oversize rivet in short spar.|
|2008-10-29||Assemble elevator skelton.||Drill coleco debur and prime elevator skelton. I used Krylon primer. It seems to work better than several other primers I have tried. I have some self etch primer bought at a car parts outlet on Cashin ave. The elevator assembly went together pretty well with little difficulity. Lots of rivets.
I cut the .016 skin from a new sheet and laid out the rivet lines. I drilled all the holes for the spars and ribs. I will have to bend it tomorrow.
|2008-10-30||Bend and install elevator skin||I set up the elevator skin wrapped in plastic with a pipe down the middle. I used a vacume to form the nose bend. It worked well but I should have used a smaller diameter pipe to give a tighter bend in the skin. I used a 1-1/2 pvc pipe. The skin developed several small kinks which I don't think will ever come out. I drilled and colecoed the top (flat side) and then used 4 ratchet straps to pull the other side down tight while I drilled the rivet holes. Some of the holes towards the tips of the ribs are close to the edge but I just added extra rivets where necessary. I cut the slots for the mounting brackets an the hole for the elevator cable. It is ready to be cleaned and primed before riviting. I will have to make a decision on how much riviting I can do in order to leave opening for inspection.|
|2008-10-31||Clean up elevator skin and rivet to skelton||Cut elevator skin openings for control cables and mounting brackets. Debur degrease and prime underside of skin an drivet lines on the outside. Rivet the skin to the top side of the skelton. mount rear attachemtn bracket. secure and wrap elevator for storage until inspection.|
|2008-11-03||Bend elevator skin and weld hindge pin||Bent elevator skin. Used the plywood and 2x4 stop method as per the blueprints. It overbent the skin a little ut a lot faster than using the vacume bag method. I welded the pins into the hinge plates. I made an extra hinge but the weld came through the front side. I used the tig welder and melted about 3mm of the pin on the backside. I debured primed and riveted the hindges to the end ribs and the angle brackets.|
|2008-11-04||Prep and rivet skelton.||I deburred and primed the spar and ribs. Rivited teh ribs to the spar. Construct cable brackets and aligment jig.|
|2008-11-05||drill stabilizer bottom skin||I mounted the skelton to the bench. Marked and drilled the bottom skin. Colecoed it to the spar and ribs. The right side doesn't come all the way around. It is maybe 15 mm short. I may have to redo the end rib.|
|2008-11-06||Made new stablizer ribs||The stablizer ribs are about 4-5 mm too far out and about 1-2 mm oversize. This is causing the problems with the skin meeting. I removed the ribs and remade the forming block which was a little oversize. I made a backup plywood block and drilled 3 holes through the aluminum blanks and the form blocks. I used a large piece of brass ( 1x2x3in) laid alongside where I was hammering to shape the narrow rib tips. They came out perfect. I checked the hinge locations which were about 14mm away from the spar. because the center hindge is 10 mm I moved the end rib brackets to the back side of the spar before riviting. The hindge pins should now be close to the 10mm setting of the middle hindge. The new ribs are 117-118 mm from the spar face. I primed the ribs and will mount them tomorrow.|
|2008-11-11||mount the hindges||I cut out the skin for the hindge assembly. Mounted the end plates and used a line through the center of the 3 holes to posiotion the end plates in line with the center hindge. I drilled and colecoed the plates. I cut the opening for he trim linkage in the upper right skin in error. Had to make a small plate and rivet over the opening. Ordered the wheel and brake assembllies plus some paino hindge, wire and fairlead nylon.|
|2008-11-14||clean up stabilizer||Cleaned up stablizer. Drilled skin to 1/8 holes. Preped and primed hindge and cable brackets.|
|2008-11-15||prime and rivet bottom stabilizer skin||I removed the stablizer skin from the skelton. Deburred the rivet holes and sanded the edges. It took some work around the rudder cutouts but it is pretty clean. I had to redrill a couple of rivets to A5 because of bad holes. I primed the inside bottom ,the rivet line on the outside and riveted the bottom to the skelton. I put a couple of tempoary rivets in the top side and wrapped it in plastic. I stored it in the rafters to make room for the wings.
Note. I called Bruce Rose, the MD-RA in Marystown last night but he was out. Left a mesage with his wife to return my call but as of tonight I havn't heard from him.
Start the wing spars tomorrow.
|2008-11-17||make wing rib form blocks||I made the wing rib form blocks from 3/4 birch plywood. I drilled 4 pilot holes with #19 Drill bit which is a snug fit for th e# 8 bolts used to hold the blocks together when bending the flanges. I also cut 10 rear rib blanks from .025 6061-t6.|
|2008-11-18||Put relief angel on forms&make ribs.||I made one rib and found the flange is tilted outward by 8 degrees. Since I have a lot of ribs to make I modified the sander bench and put an eigth degree tper on the back edge of the form blocks. This will allow me to overbend the flanges so they will wind up to be 90 degrees when finished.|
|2008-11-19||made ribs||I cut the holes in the rib blanks. Sanded the edges. Bent the flanges using the form blocks. I used the press to flange the lighting holes.|
|2008-11-20||Made inside ribs||I made the form blocks and constructed the inside nose and rear ribs. I cut the metal for the spar outter tips.|
|2008-11-21||make spar parts.||I cut the spar doubblers,ends and the rear ribs. Formed the spar ends and started to bend the rear ribs.|
|2008-11-24||cut and bent tanks||I cut the tank sking out of .032 instead of the .025. The extra thickness will allow for a better weld and stronger tanks at the cost of a few pounds. I have to make the weld flanges for the drain and fuel outlet. I spent this afternoon setting up the welder.|
|2008-11-25||Cut main stock and routered the edges||Saw the 4" aluminum down to 3-1/4 on the table saw using a metal cutting blade. It took a dozen passes but went fairly well. The only problem is when the blade would get clogged with aluminum. I routered the edges using a 1/4 and a 3/8 router bit. I started with a pilot bearing type bit which broke. I then used an old fashioned bit with a solid arbour which worked better than the bearing type. I cut some 1/8 and 3/4 stock (from the gear) and use it to make flanges for the gas tanks.|
|2008-11-26||Work on bending jig for main gear.||I made a jig to use in bending the main and nose wheel gear. I used 1/2 steel side plates and 5/8 bolts with steel pipe over the bolts. The nose gear bent up to about 70 degrees and then hit the press piston. I will have to lower the bed and make a ram extension tomorrow.|
|2008-11-27||Finished main gear and bent nose gear.||I bent the main gear. I tried using a 6" round die but the gear wouldn't bend very far. I used a 4" round which finally worked. I could have moved the jig wider apart but that would have given me a genteler curve. I had to up the pressure on the press as I figure it took about 15000 lbs to bend the main gear. I don't think I will ever have any problems with this gear. I lowered the press bed and bent the nose gear. The bent arm of the gear touched the press ram once I got over 80 degrees. I had to overbend and then use a piece of 3" stock between blocks to get the final 90. When finished one leg was about 2mm longer then the other which was taken care of with a file. I cut the 2 triangles off the fork and laid out the pilot holes for the side bolts. It's now 11pm so I'm calling it quits for the night.|
|2008-11-29||bent tank sides, made and welded fittings.||I bent the 4 sides for the tanks. I made a fitting for the left tank drain and welded it to the tank. I welded the fuel outlet to the side panel. I welded the filler flange to the tank skin. I didn't realize how much work there is to welding aluminum. I think it would have been eaiser to just have welded the filler neck instead of using a threaded flange. The welds went pretty smooth even though they are a little large. Better to over kill than have a pinhole later.|
|2008-11-30||make tank fittings||I made the fittings fro the second tank. I cut the filler flange which should give a neater weld. I finished the sides of the tanks and set up to weld together tomorrow. I have to pick up some 4043 welding rods.|
|2008-12-08||weld tanks||I had to buy another bottle of aragon to finish welding the second tank.|
|2008-12-14||made a riviter||I constructed a riveter for the main spar rivets.|
|2008-12-14||cut and flange holes in main spars||I cut and flanged the lighting holes in the main spars. The spar has a slight bow around each hole which should come out when the ribs and spar angles are riveted. I cut the main spar cap angles.|
|2008-12-18||drilled spar caps||I drilled pilot holes in the spar caps.|
|2008-12-23||put nosewheel together||The nosewheel tire and tube arrived from Aircraft Spruce today. I put the assembly together and blew it up. Not a big problem.|
|2008-12-29||Drill rivet holes in spar parts||I drilled the main spar to the final rivet hole size. ready for prep and priming before riveting the spar to the doubblers and caps.|
|2009-01-01||prime and rivet the second wing spar||I drilled primed and riveted the second wing spar. the only problem is the front strut attachment braket will have to be redrilled to accomidate an extra bolt to avoid interference with the bolt going through the attachment angle.|
|2009-01-03||make slat and flapron brackets||Make 8 brakets to attach slats to teh front nose ribs. Make 8 flapron brackets. make the rear strut doubblers.|
|2009-01-07||make slat brackets||I finished the slat brackets. Made the slat bracket tool and other parts. Assemble 3 slat brackets to the nose ribs.|
|2009-01-10||installed rear rib channels||form and rivet rear channel brackets to the rear channels. drill flaperon mount brackets. prep ribs to assemble.|
|2009-01-14||install fuel senders in tanks||Fabricate 2 aluminum mounting rings to accept the 10-32 screws. Mounted the senders on the side of the tanks using 7in. as the amount of float arm travel. Need to do a final calibration on senders and use selant on screw threads.|
|2009-01-15||prepare and cut top skins|
|2009-01-20||dirll and install left top rear skin||I drilled the ribs and spars for the top left rear skin. The only problem was teh rear channel on the middle section was drilled off center. I may have to add a few rivets between the existing rivets. I made 3 false ribs out of .040 aluminum and installed them in the 600mm bays. They turned out good and should help reduce oilcanning. teh only thing is I could use some more colecoes.|
|2009-01-22||cut lower rear skins||I cut the lower rear skins from .025 al. Also cut the flapron spar and the slat trailing edge. Bent the lower skins as well as teh slat trailing edge. I will have the flapron spars bent on an outside brake at a metal shop.|
|2009-01-23||Install lower rear skins||I installed the lower rear skins. I cut the slots for the flap brackets on the table saw using a metal cutting blade. The flap brackets are not perfectly square with the wing a result of the flanging operation on the ribs. I will have to check that the final brackets are square with teh flaps themselves.|
|2009-01-26||install flap brackets||Fabricated and drilled the angles for the flap brackets where they attach to the lower rear skin.|
|2009-02-03||fabricate flapron bracket angles||I final shaped the flaperon bracket support L brackets and pilot drilled the rivet holes.|
|2009-02-04||Disassemble Wing to prep for riveting||I removed the skins and preped for riveting. prime lower rear skins.|
|2009-02-06||Main gear arrived. Reorder correct type||Th emain landing gear kit arrived today. The axels in the kit are straight an dnot the flange type. I called Matco and spoke to George Happ who gave me a RMA 4894 to return the shafts and have them replaced with flanged shafts at a cost of $230.
He said he will also send the dual caliper cnange kit.
|2009-04-06||Cut leading edge||I cut the slots in the leading edge skin. I colecoed the rear top and bottom skins on the ribs and placed the leading edge skin on teh wing. Ran 4 straps around the wing and began to pull th eskin down tight. the skin looks like it may want to deform so I will get a few more straps tomorrow before pulling the skin down tight.|
|2009-04-07||Drill front rib holes||Drill the rivet line along bottom spar cap. Make the front strut brace|
|2009-04-08||Construct strut brackets||I drilled the angle for the forward strut brace. Fabricated the strut brace. Primed and riveted the brace to angle.
Fabricated tie-down bracket. Prime and riveted tie down bracket to #5 nose rib. I made the bracket from .025 instead of .125 al. The 1/8th didn't seem heavy enough.
|2009-04-13||install wing tip||cut parts for wing tip. Cut skins and mount tip angles. Cut end cap and mount fiberglass end cap. Mount alumimum end plate.|
|2009-04-15||Remove colecos and prep skins for riveting.||Removed all skins. Rivet nose ribs to the main spar. install bottom middle an rear skins. Start riveting bottom skin. Prime flaperon mount arrm brackets.|
|2009-04-16||RIvet lower skins on left wing.||Rivet lower skins to spar and ribs. Rivet lower part of nose skin to spar and nose ribs.|
|2009-04-21||install inner upper root skin||cut and drill upper root skin. Set tempoary rivets in top and nose skin in preperation for storage till inspection time. I used a half dozen 4-32 nuts and bolts instead of temp rivets in the wingtip bay but everything else is closed in making it impossible to use nut and bolts.|
|2009-04-24||FABRICATE PARTS FOR FUEL TANKS.||I decided to make new tanks rathur than trying to seal the pinholes in the first set of tanks. I bought a sheet of 5052 16 gauge (.050) aluminum.
I manufactured the drain and outlet flanges from 6061 stock. I tried to weld the filler neck directly into the tank without using the flanges but founf out the necks are made of plated steel. I had to cut the flange from the old tanks and clean up on the lathe.
|2009-04-24||Start to weld tank||I welded the filler , outlet and drain flanges in the tank. I welded the top tank seam. It is so much easier to do a good job with th ethicker 5052 aluminum.|
|2009-04-28||Fabricate tank parts||I made plywood form to bend the tank sides. I machined unthreaded outlet flanges and welded them to the tank sides. I formed the tank sides using the forming blocks.
The reason to use unthreaded tank flanges is to avoid the threads melting while welding. I have noticed this happening on previous flanges thus taping the threads after welding should give a perfect set of pipe threads.
|2009-04-29||reform tank sides and start welding tank.||The final tank size turned out a few mm larger than I wanted so I took about 2mm off the form and re-hammered the flanges. I welded the fuel filler flange to the top and bent the skin for the left tank. I cut the fuel sender holes. After trimming the parts to size I welded the seam mating the tank rear to the tank bottom.
I flanged the drain hole to give a hollow to weld the drain flange.
I tried the side which was a tight fit needing some heet on the body to make it fit. I will weld the sides tomorrow.
|2009-05-01||test tank & start second tank||When tested I had 2 pinholes in the corner weld by the fuel outlet. I cleaned these and rewelded. I used fuel line sealant on all threads. I connected a baloon which is still full this evening. I cut the lower tank side and welded the fuel drain to the bottom of the second tank. Bent the top skin and removed oxide from all edges to be welded. I will weld the sides in the tank tomorrow.|
|2009-05-02||Weld second tank||Welded teh second tank today.|
|2009-05-03||Clean up tanks Get ready for second wing||I cleaned up the new tanks and tested them in a tank of water. Sealed up some minor leaks and set both up with full ballons attached.
Clean up garage adn get ready to build the second (right) wing.
|2009-05-04||Put ribs on spar||RH wing. Drilled and colecoed ribs to main spar. Get rear spar channels ready.|
|2009-05-05||Complete rear spar||Assemble rear spar channels. Attach rear strut bracket and angles. Rivet fuel tank spacers to spar and rib #1.|
|2009-05-07||Made false ribs and mount lower skin to Right wing||I fabricated false ribs from .040 L angle to be installed between ribs 2-3 4-5 and 5-6 to reduce oilcaanning. The 12 ribs weigh a total 0f 1.8 lbs. This should give less than 2 lbs inclunig the rivets.
Installed the lower skin and drilled it to the ribs. It is 5-6 mm from the lower edge of the rear ribs.
I could have split the diference between the main and rear spar as there is no need for the skin to go completly to the front edge of the main spar.
|2009-05-08||Attach top skin to right wing||I attached top skin to the right wing. Drilled and colecoed to the spars and ribs. I turned the wing over and got readt to install the lower skins. installed lower rear skins and flaperon brackets.|
|2009-05-09||mount nose skin on RH wing||Cut slots in nose skin and attach to wing. Drill main spar and bottom half of nose ribs. Ready to turn over and work on the top of the nose ribs.
|2009-05-12||cut skins and install wing tip angles||I cut the top, bottom and nose skins for the RH wing tip. Form and coleco top and bottom tip angles. Trimming wing tip skin to fit.|
|2009-05-14||test RH tank with gas. Fix leaks||I decided to test the RH tank for leaks with gas. I filled the tank and recorded the fuel guage readings as fuel was added. The tank took 45.5 L total. on level the fuel guage started registering at 6L and was at full at 42L. Draining the tank left 5L still in the tank with it on level. With a slight tip most of this was recovered.
I found a couple of very small leaks. These were not detected with the air tests but when gas is in the tank you can see the metal getting damp indicating a leak. The leaks were in the seam and around the outlet flange. I also decided to test the other tank under water by using a double regulator and pressure guage.
|2009-05-16||Finish wing tips||Finished installing wing tip and tip skin. install nav light. Remove bottom skin and prep for riveting.|
|2009-05-17||Remove nose skin||Remove nose skin. Sand and prime ready for instilation. Install wing strut mounting bracket and torque bolts.|
|2009-05-18||Rivet bottom skin||I finished deburring the nose skin ribs and spar. I installed the bottom shins and riveted them. I riveted the lower portion of the nose skin and turned the wing right side up. Finished drilling nose skin along spar stiffener. Riveted lower wing tip angle to lower skin.|
|2009-05-19||Install wing root skin||I cut and installed the RH wing root skin. Fit fuel tank with cork shims.|
|2009-05-20||Mount tank||I put cork strips on the top and bottom edges. Built up sidewith cork strips to touch the ribs and rib spacers. Cut the fuel outlet hole in the rib and flanged it.|
|2009-05-23||Bend longiorns||I used a comercial brake to bend the longiorns and the .063 bracket for the firewall stiffener.|
|2009-05-25||parts preperation||Fabricate parts from .063 stock. Flaperon bracket, seat harness brackets, control tube brackets..|
|2009-05-26||made small parts||Fabricated parts from .063 AL. Seat belt brackets. Doubblers. Elevator mounting brackets. Gussetts.|
|2009-05-28||made ribs||I formed the ribs for the flaps|
|2009-05-29||fabricate hindge brackets||Cut the 8 hindge brackets.|
|2009-05-30||form rear flap ribs||I adjusted the size of the form block to match the spar adn reformed the rear ribs.|
|2009-05-31||Bend spars and adjust ribs||Align the spars to 90 and 78 degrees. Drill outer hindge brackets. Re form all nose and rear ribs to match spar. File radius on all ribs.|
|2009-08-04||Received FWF and windshield||The FWF arrived today in a 9 foot long 230lb. crate. Armour Transport delivered it to my house in an full size transport truck. The contents seem to be in good condition.|
|2010-01-12||Rivet skin to bottom of RH outter flaperon||I just got back at the project after this summer. I drilled colecoed and primed the skin for the right hand outside flaperon in preperation for riveting. I riveted the bottom spar and ribs to the skin. I will have to store these until inspection is complete.|
|2010-01-16||assemble RH inner flaperon||Assembled the ribs. Primed and riveted them to the spar. Drilled primed and riveted the skin to the bottom of the ribs. Drilled the top part of the skin adn primed. Waiting for inspection before closing up.|
|2010-01-17||Finish outboard flaps||install skin on outside flaps. Prime and rivet the bottom skin.|
|2010-01-20||Cut slat rib blanks.||Made a master and then cut 10 slat rib blanks.|
|2010-01-21||Finish cutting slat rib blanks and form ribs||I finished cutting the 12 slat rib blanks. Cleaned them up and deburred. I cut flange spaces in the rib form blocks where needed. I then made 6 right and 6 left ribs. I have 1 spare blank in case something goes wrong.
I cut the 2 inside slat skins from a piece of .016 left from previous work. I will probably have to cut a full 12 ft. sheet to get the other 2 skins as they are 6 feet long. I cut the 12 L brakets and drilled the bending radius holes.
|2010-01-25||rivet the slat ribs to the angles.||I preped the slat ribs and riveted the support brackets to the ribs.|
|2010-01-29||bent slat skins||I bent the slat skins. I predrilled the long L angles. Drilled one L angel, deburred and primed ready to rivet.|
|2010-02-03||Pre-drill slat skin Z||I marked and pre-drilled the Z lip on all slats. Mark and test layout of one slat.|
|2010-02-04||Drill and coleco slat Z bends||I jigged and drilled all 4 slat Z bends. I pre-drilled the trailing edge skins and drilled one to the left OB slat.|
|2010-02-17||take slats apart prime and store||the Slats are finished. I took them apart, deburred and primed them. They are now in storage awaiting inspection.|
|2010-02-18||cut top and bottom skins||I cut the top and bottom skins. The outside edges have a 15-20mm outward bow which made cutting a little longer than straight cuts.|
|2010-02-19||cut side skins||I cut the side skins. Each took a full sheet of 016 al. Deburred and ready for use.|
|2010-02-21||installed L braces on lower skin||I cut and installed the Zand L angles on the lower skin. I laid out the lower longirons and started to pre drill the lower skin.|
|2010-02-23||Bend fuselage parts||I bent the fuselage parts. Riveted the stiffener to the cross member and started to lay out the rivet holes on the right hand side skin.|
|2010-02-25||Pilot drill top fuselage skin||I pilot drilled the top skin fro the Ls, longiorns and rear bulkheads.|
|2010-02-25||Drilled top skin for lonfiorns and braces.||I drilled the top skin for the longiorns, Ls and rear bulkheads.|
|2010-02-28||Attach left side to bottom skin||Supported the left side from overhead and drilled the rear bolkheads to the left skin. Drilled teh lower left side longiorns and matched up side and bottom L braces.|
|2010-03-01||Assembled rear fuselage||I finished adding side pannel stiffeners and assembled the rear fuselage on the bench. I was trying to square the fuselage using a steel square when I descovered the fuselage sides are not parallel. Using the centerline and a plumbbob works.
Placing the top skin was a bit of a trick because it wanted to fall down and push the sides outwards. I now have about half the rivet holes drilled to final size.
|2010-03-06||disassemble rear fuselage and prime parts||I removed the top and right side along with the longiorns and braces. deburred and primed.|
|2010-03-07||Prep and prime bottom skin parts||Removed bottom skin parts and primed. Layout and drill nutplates for access cover.|
|2010-03-09||Finish priming and rivit bottom skins||I finished priming the fuselage parts. Installed rivetnuts for access cover. assemble longiorns readt for riveting.|
|2010-03-09||prime sides and rivet parts together||Deburred both sides and rivet braces. I used a bondo self etch primer on the skins which seems to go on and adher well.|
|2010-03-10||Prep top fuselage skin||Remove plastic from top fuselage skin. Deburr and prime. attach L braces and stiffeners and mount to the rear fuselage.|
|2010-03-11||rivet the top skin to the sides||Rivet the top skin to the sides. Lots of rivets. I used a5 at intersections of the l angles and longiorns. The lower right was buckling so I had to add a few extra rivets between the rear bulkheads.|
|2010-03-15||installed baggage deck, made parts.||Good days work. I installed the rear baggage compartment and then the z channel. Install L angles and baggage floor. I cut the front side channels on 45 and installed the top gussets. i had to make the rear wing attachment plates and the upper rudder hindge plate.|
|2010-03-16||Rivet baggage back & floor. Install side and top channel.||Coleco baggage compartment back and floor. I put a stiffiner in the middle of the the bend in the back and another on the bottom of the z channel. This should help prevent buckling of the baggage compatrment floor. I installed the side chanels and installed th etop chanel. The top chanel is the heavier .060. The right side of the chanel is bent to a width of 35mm instead of 40 mm. Theis resulted in wider flanges and the 45 not meeting evenly with the side chanel. All rivet holes are in good positions so this will not have any effect on strength. If I had rebent the chanel I would not trust that it would be as strong as this is now. I cut the lower chanel pieces and the doublers. It is taking some work figuring how this is supposed to go together but the more I read the eaiser it gets.|
|2010-03-19||Installed seat back and drill baggage compartment||I cut and installed the seat back. Drilled teh rivet holes to the final size. Removed the seat back and baggage floor. I installed the L chanels under the baggage floor ane the seat back. This will make it eaiser when it comes time to install the control rod bushing plates after the front and rear fuselage halves are joined.|
|2010-03-22||prep and rivet baggage compartment||Remove the colecoed parts,deburred and primed. Recoleco and rivet the baggage compartment. Install the L braces on the floor of the baggage compartment and the L braces on each side to hold the aerlon pushrod covers. The top of the L is attached by the 2 middle rivets of the top seatbelt brackets. Fabricated 2 .040 AL L shaped gussets installed behind the angles for the rear wing brackets. Almost ready to start on the front fuselage.|
|2010-03-23||Build firewall form and build firewall||I cut the firewall form from a piece of 3/4 plywood. Cut the firewall blank from galvanized steel and formed over the block. I cut the center hole in the top brace as well as cut the tapered ends.|
|2010-03-24||made front firewall chanels and assemble parts||I fabricated the upper and lower chanels,the top chanel brace and the lower inside z chanel. I pilot drilled these parts to the firewall. I am not happy with teh lower z chanel as one or 2 rivets are close to the edge. I will have to remake the chanel.|
|2010-03-25||Remade lower z, make bearings and parts||I made a new lower z chanel about 25mm wide and drilled to the firewall. Lots of edge distance and as it is .032 it is a little heavier than the 025 called for. I made the bungee pin and riveted the pin doublers to the lower chanel. I decided to use solid rivets because they are more compact adn less chance of damaging the bungee or other moving parts. I cut the slots for the steering fods into the firewall. I cut out the blanks for the lower steering block and made the 2 bottom stops.|
|2010-03-31||rivet firewall||Remove parts and prep for riveting. Recoleco parts to firewall and rivet.|
|2010-04-01||cut parts for forward fuselage||I cut the sides for the forward fuselage.|
|2010-04-04||cut side parts.||I cut the side angle pieces.|
|2010-04-05||put forward fuselage together.||Primed and deburred sides. colecoed together.|
|2010-04-06||rivet the sides together|
|2010-04-11||Fabricate seat brace doublers||I cut the doublers for the seat front and drilled for grommets. I added the L angles and fabricated the forward bearing for the control tube. Debur and prime.|
|2010-04-15||cut parts for main gear attachment brackets.||I cut the parts for the main gear attachemnt plates. Using a plasma cutter sure makes cutting the .080 4130 eaiser. The only real work is cleaning up the cuts.|
|2010-04-16||cut parts for front gear||I cut the bottom plate for the landing gear pout of .025 4130. I used the thicker metal because I could not source any .018 from aircraft spruce. I machined a 2 in hole through teh center and will let the tube pass through giving extra strength with the ability to weld from both the bottom and around the top.|
|2010-04-18||finish cutting parts for the main gear brackets.||Finish cutting and grinding to size parts for main landing gear brackets. Get ready to weld.|
|2010-04-19||weld right gear /strut mount||Welded the right strut mount. Welded the base to the front landing gear tube. Fitted the sterring and bungee tube.|
|2010-04-20||finish welding nose gear strut.||I started to weld the sterring fork tube but found it was almost too thin at .035 so I made new pins from .068 3/4 tubing. Welded in place and fabricated the top stop plate. Welded 2 nuts to hold the top plate and welded to the fork tube.|
|2010-05-04||Attach front fuselage to rear fuselage.||I attached the front fuselage to the rear fuselage. The left side is out of alignment by 5mm so I have to make a new left doubler to align the two parts. I attached the gussets which attach the seat back brace to the side angles. Drilled the cabin sides and started the wing strut mount holes.|
|2010-05-08||Weld cabin frame install motor mount.||Finished welding the forward cabin frame. Install motor mount and tubing frame.|
|2010-05-19||Weld flap control assembly|
|2010-05-25||cut material and welded rudder peddals||I cut the tubing and welded the rudder pedals.|
|2010-05-26||built brake peddles||cut parts for the brake peddles and welded them to the rudder peddles.|
|2010-06-08||drill main gear install main and nose wheels||Drilled the landing gear and bolted on the Matco wheel assemblys. Welded nuts to front axel and assemble nose wheel. Mount nosewheel. Move fuselage to the floor. Weld the control stick.|
|2010-08-07||Engine arrived today||The engine Arrived today. I picked it up at the shippers warehouse adn brought it home in my van. It is in pretty good shape. A lot smaller than I imagined. It has the oil can and voltage regulator which have to be installed on the firewall.|
|2010-10-24||cut and drill turtledeck||I cut and positioned the turtledeck. I had to cut 2 plates to cover the frame tubes. I cut the dash overhang 12 mm longer to allow to fold over the front edge to give it a stronger finish. After drilling it is now removed to allow worh on sides to be finished.|
|2010-10-25||Remove cabin sides, prep and prime||I removed the cabin sides and braces. Clean, sand and prime.|
|2010-11-02||install oil tank, rod boots & rivet sides||I assembled the mount and mounted the oil tank on the firewall. I assembled a pair of silicone rubber boots and mounted them oround the sterring rods.
I installed both cabin sides and braces.
|2010-11-04||install engine||I mounted the engine, connected the oil and radiator hoses. install the choke cables.|
|2010-11-10||Made a heat box for the muffler.||I fabricated a heat muff to go around the muffler. I made it out of aluminum and put 2 openings for 2in scat hoses. they will provide heat for both teh pilot and passenger.|
|2010-11-11||bent the dash botom piece and mounted it to he dash||I bent a piece of .040 Al for the bottom brace for the dash. I also bent the top of the turtlrdeck where it overlaps the dash IE. the glareshield. I folded the edge back on itself by 10mm. I used JB Weld to ensure it does not start to come apart. It makes nice finish for the glareshield.|
|2010-11-18||Constructed heat and defrost parts||I riveted the scat tube flanges to the firewall. Fabricate a defrost and a heat adapter with shutoff vanes. Install parts and scat tubing.|
|2010-11-24||cut panel and install nutplates||I cut th eopenings for the panel sections. This will make it much eaiser to modify or work on the panel after the airplane is assembled.|
|2010-11-25||installed racking and radio & transponder||I built the panel racking and installed the icom nav radio and the transponder. I cut and shaped the panel blanks. Finished installing the nutplates for the panel blanks.|
|2010-11-28||install defrost ducting.||fabricate and install defrost ducting. Set up cables.|
|2010-11-30||Fabricate door sills||Cut and bend the 2 door sills. Drill for rivets.|
|2010-12-01||rivet on door sills||prep adn prime door sills. Rivet in place|
|2010-12-02||build seat gussets braces and seat pan||Fabricated l angles and riveted to the center tunnel. Fabricate seat gussets and rivet. I decided to use solid rivets for the rivets on the gusset to door frame. This part is in tension and the solid rivets will hold better and prevent pullthrough or loosening. I made a template and cut the copilot seat pan. It is ready for final trimming.|
|2010-12-03||finished the seats||Install the seat pans and gussetts.|
|2010-12-04||install starter relay and battery cables||Installed teh battery cables and started relay. I don't know if I am going to use a main relay. It would be good for emergency shutoff but the relay draws 750ma which might be needed if the alternator failed in flight. If I use a relay and install an emergency buss with switch I still will have power from the battery coming into the plane which would defeat the purpose of the cutoff relay.|
|2010-12-05||cut panel to mount gauges.||Cut the right panel and install the fuel and engine guages|
|2010-12-06||Left panel section||I cut the left panel and installed the flight instruments. I left space for the Dynon EFI. The panel is coming together|
|2010-12-08||worked on the panel||fitting the panel side gussets. Prep brace from floor to the baggage compartment forward chanel.|
|2010-12-09||rear chanel braces||rivet braces from baggage compartment chanel to the side skins. Rivet brace which stiffnes the chanel which has the bearing forces from the aerlon cables.|
|2010-12-10||install fuel valve on dash and run lines||I decided to install the fuel valve on the dash. It will allow me to easily see the valve and by using stainless steel braided fuel lines I think it will be safer than any other system. I will move the auxilliary fuel pump to the inside of the firewall between the valve and the gascolator.|
|2010-12-11||Work on fuel lines||make pannel gussetts and route the fuel lines up the sides of the panel|
|2010-12-14||Trial assemble the cowl||I started to install the cowl. I had to cut the oil cooler baffle ducting. I drilled 2 holes and colecoed the lower cowl to the sides just ahead of the firewall|
|2010-12-15||cut top window etc.||I cut the top plexiglass window. Trimmed the windshield.|
|2010-12-16||install oil cooler scop||i cut the oil cooler scoop and oil cooler funnel and aligned with 5 minute epoxy. I then used fiberglass cloth to make permenant teh ducting. I have a 2" length of 3" scat tubing but it may take a longer length when finished.|
|2010-12-22||mount side pannels, swage rudder cables||I cut and swaged the rudder cables. I installed a fairlead on each side of the cabin to keep the cables close to the sides. Drilled and taped the end of the panel to the uprights.|
|2010-12-23||Remove panel and paint||Removed left panel and instruments. Cleaned up and painted.|
|2010-12-25||Parts arrived from Aircraft Spruce.||The pakage arrived from Aircraft Spruce with the Dynon, soundproofing and mis fittings. Unpack and check parts.|
|2010-12-27||install Dynon D6||Cut panel and install Dynon into panel. Install breakers below radios.|
|2010-12-28||reinstall gauges||Reinstall gauges into painted panel sections.|
|2010-12-29||mount gascolator and fuel pump||Mounted teh gascolator and teh electric fuel pump. ran wires for the pump and engine gauges.|
|2011-01-04||install power buss and wires.||Install a power buss on the right support brace behind the panel. Wire up the breakers below the radio stack.|
|2011-01-05||run wires and cables at floor of cabin||Install adel clamps around the brake lines and wires in the cabin. Reroute the trim servo wires from the right to the left side of the fuselage from the tail to the panel. Install fuel vapour return bulkhead fitting.|
|2011-01-08||wire trim connector at servo||I used a part of a db9 connector to wire the servo to the trim cable at the elevator. it will have to be shrink wraped after final instilation.|
|2011-01-09||wire in elevator trim switch/indicator||I used 2 db9 connectors on a bracket below the flight instruments to wire the trim indicator and switch to teh harness. I have run a dimmer wire to teh main terminal block for dimming the display. The trim actuator is now operational.|
|2011-01-10||mis panel wiring.||ran wires for fuses. Reinstalled radios. Installed transponder antenna.|
|2011-01-19||install battery||installed a battery box and straps|
|2011-01-28||Make brackets for top window||In order to make a smooth transition from the windshield to the top window and to allow direct routing of fuel lines I inserted a slight curviture into the top window. it is raised up about 30 mm in a gradual curve. I plan to install the top window under the windshield where they meet across the top thus allowing a smoother transition at this point.
I fabricated form blocks and made 2 brackets.
|2011-01-29||made braces for center of top window||I fabricated 2 braces to go between the center pipe and the front and back of the cab to support the top window|
|2011-02-01||Wire intercom||Wire intercom headset jacks to intercom main connector.|
|2011-02-02||install top window||cut and drill finish strips for thhe top window.|
|2011-02-08||install carb heat assembly||I installed the carb anti icing assemblies from Skydrive. The bodies were press fitted to the carbs using locktite adhesive and setscrew. Tee fittings were installed in the radiator to pump hose and the #2 head to expanshion tank hose.|
|2011-02-09||Finish carb heat and fill cooling system||I re-installed the carbs removed and fitted with teh carb heat bodies. Connected hoses and filled cooling system. I was suprised that the entire Rotax cooling system took only 2 liters of coolant.
Install the fuel return line from the firewall to the wing fitting.
|2011-02-11||Rivet down the top window||clean up the window holddown strips and using clear silicone is riveted the top window to te fuselage.|
|2011-02-12||Mount the strobe power supply||Mount the srrob power supply to the baggage compartment roof just behind the pilot. Ran wires and mounted a small push button on the panell for changing the sequence of the flasher.|
|2011-02-14||Fabricate fan brackets for defrost fans||Fabricated 2 brackets to mount the 3'' defrost fans and to provide ducting from the fan output to th eunderside of the turttledeck.|
|2011-02-15||Install defrost fans||Fabricated the ducting and installed the 2 defrost fans.|
|2011-02-17||Fabricate and weld struts||Cut material and slot tubing for struts. Weld top strut tubes to the ends. Prepare to weld the rest tomorrow.|
|2011-02-18||Finish welding struts. Modify front axel||Finish welding strut tubes. Dress and paint.
Remove front axel and install extra tube and 7 inX 3.8 bolt shaft. Reweld new locknut to the end of the axel tube. Fabricate a suitable nut and weld to the outside of the left hand side of the tube. This tube is welded at the nut to the inside tube. The nut can now be used to hold the axel from turning when removing the bolts.
|2011-02-19||Replace Neoprene rubbers||I installed teh neopreen rubbers obtained from Zenith aircraft. I Added a 1/4 x 1-1/2 aluminum plate on top of the hold down angle. A previous builder experienced a failure of the single alumionum angle which is only 1/8 thick so the addition of the 1/4 stock should prevent this from ever happening. I had to use castle nuts and cotter pins to secure th enew assemblies. This should provide trouble free landing gear.|
|2011-02-21||Install camlocks - cut oil door hatch||Install camlock fasteners to hold the top cowl. Used# 5 where the cowl joins. # 8 where the cowl joins with the firewall and #3 in the top 2 through the turttle deck.
Cut the hatch for the oil access door.
|2011-02-23||Start windshield instilation.||Trim the top of the windshield. Drill holes to accept the screws along the top.|
|2011-02-24||Cut and install windshield side trims.||Cut the windshield and mounted it with the side frames.|
|2011-02-26||Built rudder brackets And start engine||Fabricated rear tiedown bracket and rivet it to the teh lower rudder hindge.
Move fuselage outside and start the engine. Started with no trouble an dran for a minute. I had to top up the antifreeze with about a cup. Probably air in the system. The engine sounds good and i brought it up to about 3500 RPM. Loats of power. The weather wasn't great so I'll wait for a nice day to give it a complete checkout.
|2011-02-28||Get ready for pre-cover inspection||Remove wings from the cielding. Clean and remove the top skins. Run strobe light wiring.|
|2011-03-01||Pre cover inspection||I got the flaps, slats, rudder, elevator,stablizer and wings ready for inspection.
The inspector Bruce Rose, snaged the underside of some rivet holes needed to be deburred as well as some corners needed to be rounded with a file. He will finish the inspection tomorrow.
|2011-03-02||Finish inspection||I deburred the offending holes in the flaps/slats/wings and rounded any sharp corners. I removed enough rivets from the rudder to allow the skin to be opened completly for inspection. When the inspector returned he finished inspecting the parts and signed off on the items snagged yesterday. He placed stickers on the parts and gave me the paperwork to get the numbers from transport Canada.|
|2011-03-03||RIvet the flaps and slats||I closed up the flaps and the slats. I ordered andother 2000 A4 rivets today.|
|2011-03-07||finish trailing edge on slats and flaps||Drill and rivet the trailing edged on the flaps and the slats. Fabricate a trim tab and rivet it to a piano hindge.|
|2011-03-11||Cable the elevator.||I made the cables for the elevator and assembled them in the fuselage. The cables would bind when turning the flaperons. This is a known problem but the solution of leaving them sloppy adn using a bungie cord to keep tension is not going to work. I have decided to remove the belcrank from the control tube and mount it sepratly using ball ends on the link from the y stick and the belcrank.|
|2011-03-12||fabricate elevator belcrank mount.||I cut the belcrank mount from the control tube and cleaned it up. I fabricated a mounting bracket from 3/4 angle and mounted it between the seat back stifener and the control tube rear brace.|
|2011-03-13||mount the elevator belcrank and fabricate tube ends||I mounted the belcrank bracket on the new angle base and connected the cables. The whole system is pretty solid and has eradicated the cable tension problem inherent with the origional design. The elevator moves very smoothly with no binds. I machined some ends to weld to the elevator tube to adapt it to ball ends.|
|2011-03-15||installed the modified elevator control assembly||Remove, deburr and prime the new assembly. Reinstall using the proper fasteners. Adjust cables and used a small bungy cord to put tension on upper cable. This is not really needed but it also prevents the cable from touching the underside of the baggage compartment. Added a spring to the up elevator cable to counteract the tension created by the weight of the elevator. This now nuterlizes the elevator movement which stays in any position it is left.
I added washers to the control tube to eleminate free end play This now gives very fine control of the elevator.
I added support plates behind the center seat seat belt fasteners to eleminate any chance of the rivets pulling out in an acident.
|2011-03-19||run wires for landing lights, fuel gauges etc.||Run wires for the fuel gauges up the forward support tubes. Also run wires for the strobe and wing tip lighting.|
|2011-03-20||Insulated inside of firewall||Insulated the inside of the firewall using peel-n-stick fireproof foam. It took a bit of time cutting and fitting the many pieces on the firewall but the material went on well and should cut down on the noise and heat from the engine compartment.|
|2011-03-22||Wire strobes and tanks for left wing.||The strob lights used 2 long screws to hold the lenses by screwing into the base of teh lights. The end of the screws stuck out enough to use them to attach teh lights by using nuts on the ends of the screws. This systen while simple does not allow removal of the lights after they are installed and teh wings riveted closed. I removet the inserted duts from the base of the lights which allowed the screws to pass through the light base and into a threaded aluminum piece epoxied to the inside of the winftips. This will allow easy removal of the lights. I also used connectors on the ends of the lights to allow easy removal. The shield around the flasher cable is used as the negative return for the wingtip lights and is gtounded at both ends to the wing spar.|
|2011-03-23||rivet top skin of left wing||Align and rivet the top skin of the left wing.|
|2011-03-24||rivet trailing edge||drill and rivet the trailing edge of the left wing. Fabricate the pitot tube mounting plate.|
|2011-03-25||install false rib in left wing||Fabricate and install a false rib in the last bay of the left wing. Finish riviting the inboard rib and swap wings on the bench.|
|2011-03-28||rivet turtle deck cut covering||I finished insulating the cabin under the dash. Rivet the turtle deck in place. I used quad selant to seal the deck. I made rough cutout of the vynal to cover the turtledeck.|
|2011-03-29||install vinal on turtledeck||I decided to use contact cement to attach the vinal to the top of the turtledeck. I removed the palels in order to allow overhang when cutting up under the dash. It took a bit of patience but it went on well and looks nice.|
|2011-03-30||install windshield and trim||I installed the windshield after trimming the vynal on the turtledeck so it is just under the window edge. I used clear Quad caulking to mount he window. Quad is stronger and will stick way better than silicone. I used Gorrila duct tape slit in half to trim the lower edge of the window.|
|2011-03-31||Install right slats on wing and attach right wing||I mounted the slats on the right wing. Attach the right wing to the fuselage. As I am doing this in my garage I will have to wait untill I can take the plane outside before installing both wings.|
|2011-04-01||cut struts and rough install||Cut and install the struts. Just pilot drill all holes.|
|2011-04-04||Drill struts and cut inspection opening||I used the line method between the wingtips to get 3 in at teh root. Drill the struts for hte final bolts.|
|2011-04-05||Install inspection cover left wing||Installed an inspection cover in the left wing under the tank outlet. Wired up the lighting and finish the tank shutoff handle.|
|2011-04-06||Fabricate an inspection hole cover and install on the Rigth wing||I used #10 screws and nutplates on the Left wing inspection cover. There are 2 problems with this. First teh screws are hard to remove and secondly the 016 aluminun wing skin is too thin to fully support the plate.
I made an aluminun ring 8mm X 3mm and installed it in the right wing bay. Used #8 countersunk screws threaded into the support ring. This works and looks much better than th eLeft wing. A little more work but it is a much better setup.
|2011-04-07||fabricate new left wing end cover||The cover which covers the wing end for the left side had several misdrilled holes so I fabricated a new cover from .016AL.
I drilled this in place and then cleaned and primed both covers.
I then worked on the Right side fuel tank shutoff and the wiring in the wing end bay.
|2011-04-08||Install landing lights in the slats.||I obtained 2 rectangular 12-volt led lights from Grote. They are brighter than a headlight and only draw .75 amp at 12v.
I cut 2 holes in the slats about a foot from the inside end of each slat. I had to cut away some of the heatsink aluminum on the bottom of each light to allow them to fit inside the slats. I also had to remove the pop rivets and replace them with solid type rivets in the area below the lights. This allowed the lamps to sit low enough to pvovide aiming downwards.
I made 2 L brackets and bolted to the back of the lamps. I then riveted the lamps in place via these brackets. The wires are run inboard to the first slat bracket where they will be connected to the wing wiring using a connector.
I will fabricate lexan covers and fit over the lamps to restore the airfoil properties to the slats.
|2011-04-09||Wing strut brace parts prep||cut parts and install strut brace tubes on the left wing.|
|2011-04-10||install strut brace tubes.||Form and install the strut brace tubes on the right wing.
Start the cabin doors.
|2011-04-11||make Right door frame||Cut tubing and bend frame. Fabricate gussetts and coleco. mount piano hindge to top of door frame.|
|2011-04-12||Fabticate inside door latches||Cut material and weld inside door latches.|
|2011-04-13||Work on doors and latches.||Rounded the gussets for both doors. Cut and colecoed the lower door panels. Mount door latch on Right door.|
|2011-06-01||Built an inspection door into rear fuselage||I manufactured a 9x9 inspection door which i installed in the right side of the fuselage just behind the the battery. 2 camlock fasteners are used to close the door which gives great access to the read compartment.
This door will allow easy access to the inside critical items such as the battery, power solenoid, control and cable assemblies.
|2011-06-12||Painted the slats,tail, rudder flaperons||I painted all the small parts red.|
|2011-06-13||painted wings||cleaned, primed and painted the wings.|
|2011-06-14||Paint upper half of fuselage||I masked and painted the upper half of the fuselage. Primed it yesterday with 2part epoxy primer.|
|2011-06-15||paint bottom half white||Painted the bottom half of the fuselage white|
|2011-06-17||Clean up paint on doors.||I worked on the plastic windows where some white paint got onto the plastic. I tried solvent but it just smeared and turned the plastic cloudy. I managed to buff most of it out but I will probably replace the plastic window later.|
|2011-06-22||Paperwork for transport canada||I did the paperwork and sent it to TC for a relaese of Registration which I will need before the MDRA final inspection.|
|2011-06-25||fuselage out of the garage and install wings.||We pulled the fuselage out of the garage and installed the wings. Starting to come together.|
|2011-06-27||Painted slats and flaperons||I preped the slats and flaperons for painting. Light sanding and clean/dust off. Hang all items from garage cielding. I used the last of my hardener but have about 1/2L of red paint left for future touchups.|
|2011-06-28||Installed flaperons and slats after painting.||Installed the flapeorns and slats after painting.|
|2011-07-08||did weight and balance.||I did the weigth and balance which turned out to be 160 on the nose wheel adn 210 on the right and 215 on the left main. I used 3 diferent bathroom type scales to ensure accurate measurements with plywood under each scale for stability and leveling. . I found the airplane has to be perfectly level from right to left as well as front to back.
I also fabricated a fairlead for the top elevator cable where it could rub the back lower corner of the baggage compartment during full elevator movement.
|2011-07-09||Fuel flow tests.||I did the fuel flow tests.|
|2011-07-11||Brought the wings to the airport||I loaded the wings on the trailer. Put the tail, elevator and flaperons in the van and took them to Clarenville.|
|2011-07-15||Transported fuselage to airport and installed wings.||I loaded the fuselage on a trailer and drove to Clarenville airport about 200km from my home. it took 3 hours and wasn't too bad a run. I unloaded the airplane and installed the wings and tail feathers. Nothing final just have the bolts in place.|
|2011-07-16||Final assembly, checking and safteying||Finished putting everything together and hooking up all the wing attachment items and rigging. Everything is saftied and checked with proper hardware. I ran up the engine and took her for a short spin around the airport. The airplane handles quite well and the engine sounds good. I tested the brakes with about 3500rpm before any sings of creeping. I think around 3700 the right brake began creeping so that's where I'll leave it. The RL mag checks with only about 100 RPM drop from dual systems running. I put about 25L of fuel in both tanks.|
|2011-07-17||DId a compass swing and final inspection||I went to the airport in Clarenville and did a compass swing. The compass is pretty accurate with the Dynon being about 5 degrees from it. Bruce Rose arrived around 11Am and did a final inspection. He snaged about 10 items which I have to fix. I have to get a photocopy of my log book entry and a copy of this construction log, along with some decals, some baggage lables, mark the airspeed dial, change the strut bolts to all point back, dlocknut on the oil cooler mount, insulate the start solenoid post, and put a warning lable on the outside of the fuselage.|
|2011-08-13||Did a preflight inspection and flew the aircraft.|