Tools used to build the Bearhawk
One of the miserable parts about starting a project like this is figuring out what tools you need. I will attempt to track ALL of the tools I use/buy here so others can benefit. Most of the specialty tools can be found at Aircraft Tool Supply, Avery Tools or Aircraft Spruce. I'll also put comments where appropriate so you know why I used certain tools.


  1. Drill Bits - split tip standard length 135 degree tip
    1. #41 - 1
    2. #40 - 3
    3. #30 - 3
    4. #21 - 1
    5. #12 - 1
    6. 1/4 - 1
    7. 3/16 - 2

  2. Step Drill Bit Kit (aka Unibit)
    1. 1/8 to 1/2 in 13 steps
    2. 3/16 to 1/2 in 6 steps
    3. 1/4 to 3/4 in 9 steps

  3. ATS Rivet Squeezer Kit (includes 1" 2" and 3" yokes) plus:
    1. 6 piece rivet set for rivets up to 5/32
    2. Rivet gauge set

  4. Speed deburring tool
  5. 1/8" Dimple Die Punch Set
  6. 3/32 Dimple Die Punch Set
  7. Hole Flanging Tool
  8. Rivet Fan
  9. Fluting Pliers
  10. Cordless drill
  11. Drill press
  12. Band saw [2]
  13. Router table built from router table plate kit. [2]
  14. Formica router bit (for wing ribs)
  15. Radial Arm Saw [1]
  16. Table Saw [1]
  17. Bench Top Scroll Saw [3]
  18. Handheld Scroll Saw [4]
  19. 2" Dead Blow Hammer
  20. 1" Paddle Bit
  21. 1 7/8" Paddle Bit [5]
  22. 45 degree chamfer router bit [6]
  23. Router [6]
  24. Fly Cutter / Circle Cutter




NOTES:
[1] These tools were used for building work tables. You could easily use a circular saw and get the same results.
[2] These tools belong to Chris Owens and/or my Dad, but I used them and they were very important to the build.
[3] You don't need a scroll saw if you have a band saw, but I didn't have a band saw so I used this to cut out form blocks and shape would when needed. It does NOT work for cutting aluminum so if you have to choose between a scroll saw and a band saw, take the band saw.
[4] Used to rough cut the wing ribs before taking them to my Dad's and final cutting them on his band saw.
[5] This was used for counter sinking the holes on the rib forms. I could have used smaller washers and a 1" paddle bit.
[6] This is used to make the "plugs" that will flange the lightening holes. The 45 degrees is slightly more than the 30 degree flange needed but bounce back of the material gets it close to 30 and that's really all we're looking for.

ExperCraft is supported by these quality vendors: