Log Entries for Elevators
Log Entry Date: Mar 21, 2011
Elevators
Drill and safety the hinge pins - Part 1
Using a narrow nail punch, I pushed in the hinge pin on one end of the elevator/stabilizer hinge. Drilled a 1/16" hole approximately 3 mm from end of hinge, then inserted a straightened paper clip as a temporary stop. I pressed the pin back in from the other end until it hit the paper clip, then marked the pin where it protruded. I pulled it out further to give room for cutting. Using a dremel, I cut about 4 mm back from the mark. This gives me 1-2 mm of clearance between the pin and the safety wires when assembled. I dressed the end of the pin with a file and pressed it back into the hinge. Then I drilled the 1/16" hole into the end of the hinge and inserted another straightened paper clip.
The trim tab was challenging because I had already riveted the entire trim tab assembly in place:
I bent a short right-angle bend into the end of a heavy paper clip and, holding it with needle nose pliers, I was able to reach around the end of the hinge on the outboard end and press against the pin. When the right-angle bend reached 4 mm deep, I drilled the 1/16" hole about 3 mm from the end of the hinge.
On the inboard end, I was able to grasp the protruding pin with the needle nose and pull it further out of the hinge. I used a 24-tooth hacksaw blade (fitted between the trim tab skin and the elevator skin) to cut the excess pin. I was able to deburr the end of the pin with a file.
Now the hard part - how do I get the pin pressed back into the hinge from the inboard end? The bent paper clip wasn't sturdy enough and there was no leverage to be had in such a tight space. I solved the problem by drilling a #20 hole in the inboard elevator rib, in line with the end of the hinge pin (approximately 70 mm from the rear edge of the elevator skin). After inserting another straightened paper clip into the outboard hole, I was able to place an 8-penny box nail through the rib hole and against the end of the pin. A couple light taps drove the pin home. Then I was able to drill the final 1/16" safety wire hole at the inboard end of the hinge. Just for fun, I stuck in yet another straightened paper clip.
I had no safety wire or safety wire pliers, so I stopped at this point and called up Spruce.
The trim tab was challenging because I had already riveted the entire trim tab assembly in place:
I bent a short right-angle bend into the end of a heavy paper clip and, holding it with needle nose pliers, I was able to reach around the end of the hinge on the outboard end and press against the pin. When the right-angle bend reached 4 mm deep, I drilled the 1/16" hole about 3 mm from the end of the hinge.
On the inboard end, I was able to grasp the protruding pin with the needle nose and pull it further out of the hinge. I used a 24-tooth hacksaw blade (fitted between the trim tab skin and the elevator skin) to cut the excess pin. I was able to deburr the end of the pin with a file.
Now the hard part - how do I get the pin pressed back into the hinge from the inboard end? The bent paper clip wasn't sturdy enough and there was no leverage to be had in such a tight space. I solved the problem by drilling a #20 hole in the inboard elevator rib, in line with the end of the hinge pin (approximately 70 mm from the rear edge of the elevator skin). After inserting another straightened paper clip into the outboard hole, I was able to place an 8-penny box nail through the rib hole and against the end of the pin. A couple light taps drove the pin home. Then I was able to drill the final 1/16" safety wire hole at the inboard end of the hinge. Just for fun, I stuck in yet another straightened paper clip.
I had no safety wire or safety wire pliers, so I stopped at this point and called up Spruce.
| #20 Hole drilled to allow access for trim tab hinge pin (inboard end of hinge) |