General suggestions
1. If your workshop ceiling isn't high enough to allow you to install the rudder with the fuse sitting on its wheels, then don't rivet the rudder control horn to the bottom of the rudder; leave it clecoed. When the time comes to install the rudder cables through the fuse, detach the control horn from the rudder, and mount just the control horn to the lower pivot on the tail. This will let you measure & cut the cables & install everything, including attaching to the control horn, without installing the entire rudder.

2. Easy way to install the nose gear bungee is to use a 1/2" drive breaker bar and suitable socket. Position the strut and bungee, then insert the bar through the bungee loop, position the socket on the bungee 'post'. Lever the bungee up onto the post, then give the bar a couple spins to get the socket out from underneath the bungee. Works like a champ.

3. If you're using a RWS PSRU, PRIOR TO MOUNTING IT, install a 90 deg AN6 fitting on the 'spacer' (rearmost) oil drain. There's not enough clearance to rotate it in after you mount the PSRU. You're also better off using a 90 deg fitting and a straight hose connector than vice versa, as there's very little clearance with the starter.

4. Just noticed a new product, a replacement intake manifold for the rotary 13B. It looks like it would be suitable for an aircraft conversion, but I am concerned it only has two injectors. Should have 4 to be compatible with the RWS ECU.

5. When doing final installation of the empennage, SEQUENCE MATTERS! And is not described in the builder manual. So- 1. Install the rudder, 2. Attach one side of the rudder fairings, 3. Trim & drill the fairings, but don't rivet; 4. Install the H-stab +elevator, 5. Attach elevator control cables and trim wiring. Now you can finish the rudder fairing.

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