I got the windshield from is resting place. I pulled the protective cover back from the edges so I could put down some electrical tape to define the areas for sanding. I also went and used some 320 paper on the edges. This is to get rid of as much roughness to minimise any stress points for the windshield to crack. I roughed up the areas for bonding and glassing. This took about 5 hours. I placed and removed the windshield about 8 times as I checked out the gap between the canopy and the roll bar. I wanted to have a consistant gap between the slider plexi and the windshield. I had to make and remake the spacers that held the windshield up high enough to mate with the slider plexi. I ended up with about a gap of 5/8" on the pax side and about 1/4" on the pilots side. Fortunatly the "Sika Flex" material has a great gap filling capacity. I ended up putting Sika on both the windshield and the roll bar. I used about 5 spacers to hold the windshield in place. I used a wood board that I clamped to the front to keep the windshield from sliding forward while placing it for bonding. The Sika Flex was the stuff I had from last year when I did the slider. In fact is is almost exactly one year. The cleaner and Primer are dated but It has worked out fine. The sika flex is like very stiff cauking. It begins to set up very quickly when outside the tube. I forgot that because when I went to finish filling some of the roughness in the gaps, it had already "set up". This makes tape removal quite difficult. The tape is put on the roll bar to limit the excess filler from looking sloppy. Now I will have to carefully trim it with a razor knife or blade. It says it cures in 12 hours but I will leave it in "clamped" mode for at least 24 hours. I installed several clips to hold the plexi against the sides of the fuselage. This is the area where the most forces exist to spread the plexi away from the roll bar. Now you need a bridge to get the fiberglass from the windshield doan to the fuselage. First cut the glass to fit the transition. You need to make up some flox and fill in the space between the edge of the windshield and the fuselage. I let the flox go out for about 5/8" to 3/4" from the windshield. You should also rough up the fuselage for at least 1" contact with the glass. I also used about 1" on the windshield for contact. You should do what is called a wet on wet application. You mix up the flox and apply it and then add the layers of glass over the mix. I always put on a coat of resin first before I add anything on top. That makes sure you get good bonding. I put on 7 layers of 8 oz bid to glass the windshield to the fuselage. It looks a bit rough but the "super fil" will take away and make it a real smooth transition area. BTW, very important item to install is a looped wire around the slider "teflon" block. This wire is necessary to open the canopy by pulling on it when working on this.