Log Entries

Project Location: WA US

Entry Date Summary Description
Entry Date Summary Description
2009-07-15 The Kit Arrives! The kit arrived at Mission Creek Auto Body, as they have a long-fork lift truck to unload it. I borrowed Marlyn's truck and trailer to bring the kit to my shop, and unloaded it box by box, and at the bottom of the shipment, piece by piece.
2009-07-23 Debur and prime T-13 parts Started at last! I de-burred the parts on plans page T-13, and sprayed them with Vinyl Wash primer.
2009-07-23 SNX-T13 Clean, debur, and prime all parts with wash primer
2009-07-25 Vertical Stabilizer assembly Pulled about 16 rivets on T-13 parts
2009-08-25 Vert tail parts I've been away a month - back to work! This is still the beginning for me, so I spent a lot of time looking at the plans, de-burring parts, and priming them. Finished all parts on plans page T-12.
2009-08-25 SNX-T12 Vertical tail misc parts Parts T12-1 through T12-10 cleaned, deburred, and primed.
2009-08-26 Identify, de-bur and prime more parts I am beginning to understand how the plans are laid out. I am also getting the hang of de-burring and polishing parts.
2009-08-26 T-12 Vertical tail parts Polished all scratched areas, finished making all T-12 parts on that page of plans.
2009-08-27 Vertical tail assembly Assembled parts #T-12-4, 6. and 10. In the afternoon assembled T-10-1,2,3,6, and 7.
2009-08-29 Vertical Stabilizer assembly Working on the vertical spars.
2009-08-30 Replace mistakes. I had to re-make T-12-8 and 9. They just didn't look like the quality I want. I know I'll likely have to order more raw material, but it's my butt up there in the air.
2009-09-01 T-9, Vertical spars Using the replacement parts, I began assembling T-9, the vertical spars.
2009-09-03 T-9, Vertical spars Polish parts. I know it's overkill, but I am polishing small parts to a mirror finish, only to prime them. I don't want any stress risers.
2009-09-05 T-6 parts preparation Finding, identifying, de-burring, and polishing parts. I now I am spending more time on some of this than other do, but I am enjoying the work, and that's what counts.
2009-09-06 More de-burring on T6 Horizontal Stab. Locate, de-bur, and polish parts.
2009-09-21 Right Elevator Hinge Drill 3 foot ruler for hinge spacing
2009-11-01 Left Elevator Finished assembly of left elevator.
2009-11-06 T-02 Left Elevator Riveted skin on left elevator.
2009-11-15 T-07R Right Elevator Make T-04-01 and -02 ribs.
2009-11-17 T-04-03 and -04 Ribs Make parts and mark rudder holes
2009-11-19 Rudder assembly work General layout, drilling, deburring of rudder
2009-11-20 More rudder work Continuing laying out, drilling, measuring, clecoing rudder.
2009-11-21 Rivet rudder T-08-02 Riveted rudder together
2009-11-23 T-8 and T-14 Layout, drill, cleco, disassemble, debur, cleco and rivet most of Verticle stabilizer.
2009-11-24 T08-01 Assembly Finished assembly of Verticle stabilizer.
2009-11-24 Completed Vert Stab
2009-11-25 T-03 Horizontal Stab Frame Layed out and drilled T-03 Horizontal stabilizer ribs and frame.
2009-11-28 T-03 Finished frame Finished riveting Horizontal Stabilizer frame
2009-11-29 T-02 Right elevator Begin skinning right elevator. Something doesn't look right.
2009-11-30 T-02 Left Elevator Layout, drill, and cleco left elevator.
2009-12-01 T-02 Left elevator Rivet frame of left elevator.
2009-12-03 Back to hoirzontal stabilizer frame Continued checking measurements et cetera of T-02.
2009-12-04 Assemble elevators. T-02 assembled elevators, checking for perfect level, straight,and plumb.
2009-12-05 T-02 Right Elevator Preperatory and layout work on right elevator.
2009-12-06 T-02 Left elevator Rivet skin on left elevator.
2009-12-07 T-02 Right elevator skin Begin to assemble and rivet right elevator skin. - It doesn't look right.
2009-12-10 T-02 Right elevator skin More rivets in skin - it does not measure correctly.
2009-12-11 Right elevator mistake? Measure, check plans, confer with TA, decide how to repair 3/16 inch shortness of right elevator.
2009-12-14 Technical Counselor Visit Jerry Dixon came here and looked at my progress. He inspected my riveting and construction methods and discussed a wing setup jig.
2009-12-22 Horizontal Stabilizer Horizontal Stabilizer complete. Date may be incorrect. Damn I hate this Corel program.
2010-01-02 T-02 Disassembly Drill rivets out and remove right elevator skin. Measure ribs and frame to determine proper repair.
2010-01-09 T-04-05 Re-make. Made form block and made extended edge tip rib. Still does not look right.
2010-01-19 Use brake to make new Z-02-04 channel Attempted to make new channel. My respect for scratch builders grows even more. Was not satisfied with my work, ordered new channel from Sonex.
2010-01-23 Remake Right Elevator Frame - all parts Fix earlier mistake where stabilizer was too short. Made all new ribs, drilled and deburred. Ready to assemble and skin right stablilizer.
2010-01-24 Rivet right elevator frame Riveted right side elevator frame using all new ribs.
2010-01-25 Skin right Horizontal Stabilizer Re-skinned right side horizontal stabilizer using same skin on all new ribs. Measures perfectly 78 inches.
2010-01-26 Complete Horizontal Tail assembly Completed assembly of horizontal tail assembly. All is well except the fiberglas tips do not line up perfectly. Sent email to Kerry at Sonex to figure out next step.
2010-01-30 Debur parts and make W04-09 Deburred premade parts, made W04-09. Both of them 1/8 inch short. Read the plans, idiot! Remade and they turned out perfect. One more lesson learned!
2010-02-01 Prepare airlerons After visit with Jerry Dixon, cut both ailerons (T04-01 L&R)and assembled aileron drive rib assemblies (T04-05 L&R) and bent aileron tip ribs (T04-10 R&L.)
2010-02-01 T.A visit Jerry Dixon came up to help me figure out how to read the plans. I could not understand the drawing for the elevators. Jerry showed me what was intended and helped me draw the cut lines on the aileron blanks.
2010-02-02 Counterbalance I cut the lead brick in two, and balanced the pieces using the gram scale to make the W04-08 counterbalance weights. Cut and drilled the two hinge halves # W04-06 L&R. Began work on counterbalance assemblies.
2010-02-05 W03-03 Counterweights Drilling into lead is quite a trip. Every bit broken took nearly an hour to remove, and I broke too many bits. I got one counterbalance W03-03 done, and maybe 60% of the other.
2010-02-06 Right aileron Drilled and clecoed (silver) W03-03R aileron.
2010-02-07 Right aileron Finished drilling and clecoing right aileron, disassembled, de-burred, and primed all parts. It is now ready to rivet together.
2010-02-08 Finish Right Aileron Assembled and riveted primed parts to complete W03-03R, right aileron. Had to remove the lead weight to install two rivets. Used 6 new lock nuts - painted used ones primer red for possible use as regular nuts later.
2010-02-11 Left airleron Began drilling left aileron.
2010-02-12 Drill, debur, and prime left aileron The left side went much quicker than the right, as now I have a better idea what needs to be done.
2010-02-13 Complete Left Aileron Assembled and riveted left aileron. Hung both ailerons from ceiling.
2010-02-17 Prepare Flap Drive Ribs Drilled, deburred, and clecoed W06-05L&R. They are now ready to rivet.
2010-02-18 Hinges Cut, drilled, and de-burred W06-06L&R Flap hinges. Stuck on reading flap cutting plans.
2010-02-19 Cut and mark flaps for drilling I finally figured out what the plans meant. Cut left and right flaps, marked for drilling.
2010-02-20 Completed flaps Drilled, deburred, primed, and riveted both flaps.
2010-02-21 Unpack Main Spars, debur parts Unpacked main spars, disassembled packing box, began deburring spars, deburred all preformed metal parts.
2010-02-26 Cut and drill rear spar channels Cut,drilled, and de-burred W-13 1-5 (rear spar details), and W-12 2 & 3, L & R (rear spar channels.)
2010-02-27 Prepare right rear spar Drilled, de-burred, and primed all parts of right rear spar. It is now ready to fivet together. Started preparation of left rear spar.
2010-02-27 Prepare right rear spar Drilled, de-burred, and primed all parts of right rear spar. It is now ready to fivet together. Started preparation of left rear spar.
2010-02-28 Finished rear spars Drilled, de-burred, and primed left rear spar, assembled and riveted both left and right rear spars.
2010-03-01 Cut, drilled, and polished W23-05 and W23-06 L&R Pitot mounting plates, made from .063 plate.
2010-03-02 Research plans, make clips and channels Cut and drilled W21-05&08 phenolic blocks, -09 clips, -13&14 channels, not drilled yet. Missing 3/16x1/4 steel bushing material. Ordered reamer set from Grizzly.
2010-03-03 W17 Support Angles Smaller does not mean easier! Cut and deburred W17-2,3,5,6,7,and 9 Support angles - did not drill, not sure if web needs to be cut off. Also de-burred both main spars, starting with Vixen, then 120 grit flap wheel, then 240 flap wheel, then maroon Scotch Brite pad.
2010-03-04 W17-04 & 08 Reinforcement angles Cut and de-burred W17-04&08 Supports. Messed up again on one of them - the plans are not as complete as for other parts. Received Nav lights and part of landing lights, as well as set of reamers to size brackets for bushings.
2010-03-05 Bent reinforcement angles W15-06&07 and W16-07&08 reinforcement angles - these were pre-cut and drilled, but not bent. Bent all 32 of them, and cut off W16-01R rib as per instructions.
2010-03-06 End attach angle, Right main rib Finished 2 of W11-2 end attach angles, finished W-01R right side main rib.
2010-03-07 Tail light mount I spent about 3 hours making a stainless steel base for the tail light I bought from Aircraft Spruce. Now I have to figure out the fibreglas part. I'm not charging the hours for this job, as it is pure joy making it.
2010-03-08 Right main spar miscellaneous parts Drilled, de-burred and installed all brackets except tie down. It is ready to drill, debur, and install.
2010-03-09 W13 right side main spar Finished W13 right side main spar. Solid riveting the tie-down reinforcement strap was a bitch. I had to re-do one rivet 3 times. I sure am glad I bought the pre-built spars!
2010-03-10 Left spar I had to remove the rib attach angles from the right spar as Sonex had prebent one to the wrong angle. I re-bent it to the proper angle and re-installed it. Thank God it was bolted and not riveted. I re-used the self-locking nuts with red LocTite. Got started one the left main spar, but stopped before riveting. I have ordered a rivet set for my air hammer. Aircraft Spruce should have it here by Monday. There is plenty more things to work on until then.
2010-03-11 Left Spar Installed wing attach angles, waiting for rivet set to rivet on the final angle.
2010-03-11 Prepare for tail light Removed the fiberglass tip from the vertical stabilizer - that was a heartbreaker, considering all the fun I had installing it. Bored a 3/4 inch hole in the topmost part, deburred it to fit the stainless steel mount I had made, put a tiny amount of reinforced body putty inside to support nut plates that should be here Monday. I have several parts waiting for small parts from both Wicks and Aircraft Spruce.
2010-03-12 Prepare ribs Cut and deburred # 1L, 2 of #2, 2 of #3. Having problems figuring out why #4 needs more relief than the plans show. Also, why 26 ribs? Stopped for day to contemplate.
2010-03-13 Made rib spacers Made 10 each of W14-2&3. Still trying to figure out placement of rib #4.
2010-03-14 Drilled aft spars Finished drilling all aft spars needing reinforcement. Began de-burring them in preparation for riveting.
2010-03-15 Assembled Aft ribs Finished riveting the aft ribs that have the reinforcement angle.
2010-03-16 Misc prep work d\Deburred all aft ribs, riveted tie-down support on left spar, started assembly of W21-02L pivot - bushing material is not bored concentric, must wait for lathe tooling to bore it correctly.
2010-03-20 Aileron and flap pivots, contemplate spars Finished reaming and assembling flap and aileron pivots - third or 4th time to disassemble and re-assemble. Used red Loctite on used nuts. Spent 3 or so hours trying to figure out SNX-17. It looks like I have to disassemble part of the spars again. Sometimes it is quite discouraging to get something completed only to find out you have to disassemble it to fit something else first.
2010-03-21 Root Ribs Finished assembling L & R for and aft root ribs. Deburred all aft ribs.
2010-03-22 Front spars 1 - 4 Cut, deburred, primed, and assembled 2 each front spars 1-2-3-4.
2010-03-23 Rib # 9 Cut, bent, drilled, deburred, primed #9 right and left ribs. These are the ribs that support the flap and aileron pivots.
2010-03-25 Pilot drill aft ribs - right side drilled spacers, drilled pilot holes and clecoed aft ribs on right side. It's starting to make a little sense.
2010-03-29 Prepare ribs Drilled, clecoed, deburred, primed all for and aft ribs on right spar. It is ready to assemble as soon as the primer dries.
2010-03-30 Prepare to rivet right wing box` frame Assembled all primed parts for right wing box frame, including forward and aft ribs and rear spar. I can't drill forward root rib until all other ribs are in place.
2010-03-31 TECH VISIT Jerry Dixon came up to take a look at the right wing box before I rivet everything together. He was pleased with it,so I started riveting the right spar together. I also cut the web between the two lightening holes out on the right and left forward root ribs. This is to allow arm room when attaching the wings, as per Sonex and the Sonex discussion board.
2010-04-01 Riveted main spar on to right wing box frame Finished riveting the rear spar on to the right wing box frame, and set up the forward root rib so it can be drilled.
2010-04-02 Finished Right wing box frame and modified vert stab. I completed riveting the right wing box frame, and started gathering the parts for the left wing box frame. Also finished assembling the vertical stabilizer with the new tail light mount in place. It looks great - the TC thought it was a factory furnished option.
2010-04-16 Left Wing Box frame Pre-drilled, assembled, clecoed left wing box frame.
2010-04-17 Root Rib Marked root ribs, removed root rib angles, drilled and riveted root ribs to root rib angles.
2010-05-01 Left wing box frame Drill, de-bur, and prime left wing box frame.
2010-05-01 Replaced left hand attach plate I had drilled the plate in the wrong spot. Purchased new W13-01 and installed it on rear spar, this time everything properly placed.
2010-05-02 Rivet left wing box frame Finished riveting left wing box frame - it and the right side are now ready to skin.
2010-05-03 Building navigation light extensions No luck in finding extensions to use the nav lights I bought from Aircraft Spruce. The other ones made for Sonex are too short for these lights. I carved two pink styrofoam blocks, covered them in black electric tape, and covered them with fiberglass cloth. What a mess!
2010-05-06 Navigation light extensions and wing cart Another coat of fiber glass and re-inforced body filler. Built a cart for holding the wings - wood and casters.
2010-05-13 Top aft skin Leveled wing box, adjusted measurements as per plans, began drilling and cleco-ing top aft skin to rear spar.
2010-05-15 Pilot drill can cleco left aft top skin Leveled the wing, checked for square as per instructions on W07. Drilled through webs with #40 and then #30. Drilled into main spar to #30 only, drilled into aft spar #30 only. Flipped wing over and prepared to level it. With clecoes it won't be as simple.
2010-05-18 Drill and cleco left lower aft skin It was difficult to flip the wing - it's getting heavy. I re-leveled it and laid the lower skin on. The wing is staying square withing 1/16 inch. I drilled and clecoed the aft spar with #40 and the skin with #30. I still need to drill into the main spar with #40. The wing looks pretty good.
2010-05-20 Drill and cleco lower aft skin left side, landing light Finished drilling and clecoing front edge of lower aft skin on the left wing. Also began setup for landing light on left wing.
2010-05-21 Mount landing light Mounted the landing light HID ballast at the far tip of left wing, made brackets to hold wires and grommets, drilled leading edge holes for conduit.
2010-05-22 Drill and cleco foreskin, mounted conduit - left wing. Drilled and clecoed left lower forward skin. I will need some help to flip the wing over now. I also finished installing the conduit for the landing and navigation lights.
2010-05-25 Build wing cart Made a wing cart out of wood from the Sonex shipping crates and put it on roller wheels from Surplus Center.
2010-05-28 Drill and cleco left lower skin #35
2010-05-29 Finish bending both leading edges Built a trough of 1x4's and 1x6's, cut 10 feet of 1 1/4 inch schedule 40 PVC, bored a hole in it, made an end to fit vacuume cleaner hose, made clamps to hold it down, wrapped the whole thing in 4 mil clear plastic,and used the old furnace vacuum to suck the wing into shape. It worked!
2010-05-30 Built a wing flipper Using an old clothes line pulley I mounted to the ceiling, I strung some nylon rope to a 2x3 to the main spar inner end, put a pillow under the outer end of wing, lifted up and tied inner end, lifted the outer end by hand and flipped the wing. It works great, and now I don't have to wait for help to flip the wing. I'll still need help to move the wing to the carriage sling though.
2010-05-31 Top skins - left, and left aileron Finished drilling and deburring top left skin. Removed skin, deburred webs and primed the webs and underside of skin where ribs will be. Mounted left aileron, drilled and deburred hinge half to rear spar.
2010-06-01 Drill and debur leading edge left wing Wired and checked strobe, wired nav and landing light on left wing. finished drilling and deburring leading edge
2010-06-02 Checked all left lights, deburr & prime all parts Called AeroFlash, finished wiring and checking all lights, mounted flat, drilled and deburred and dimpled all that needed same, primed all parts, all ready to rivet at last!
2010-06-03 Assemble for riveting and remove lead edge skin I got everything leveled, assembled, and clecoed, and discovered I'd not dimpled the actual leading edge skin! So, removed it and began setting up bench dimpler. I'm tired and will continue tomorrow.
2010-06-04 Finished riveting left wing! I finished riveting the entire left wing, except for the tip rib. I must have had those skins off 15 times. It looks very good - the dimpling is perfect, and only a small depression for each rib on the leading edge.
2010-06-05 Left tip rib completed I trimmed, drilled, and clecoed the left tip rib, and then mounted the adapter I'd made for the navigation light. I used windshield glue and 3 - 3/16 all stainless rivets to mount it. It is reinforced inside with .035 aluminum. I also drilled a 1 inch hole in the main spar, and installed a bushing for the wires. Due to wire length and where I put the connectors, I'll have to connect the light when I rivet the tip spar on. I will leave it hanging and masked until the painting is done, and then install it with strobe, lights, and lenses.
2010-06-06 Installed left tip rib, began landing light It was quite a task to connect the navigation/strobe lights wires, but they are connected and the tip rib riveted on with hardware store all aluminum rivets (so if I ever have to remove the tip, they will drill out easy.) I also installed the top lens holding flange for the DuckWorks landing light.
2010-06-07 Landing light, left wing, hose brkts on right wing. Broke the DuckWorks lens. I guess it was too cool, even though I had it in the sun for quite a while. Trimmed the other lens and ordered a new one. This time I kept it in front of an electric heater. I also mounted the Pitot Tubing brackets and the two support brackets for the electrical conduit, both on the right wing.
2010-06-08 Landing light - left wing. Finished wing. I finished the landing light lens without breaking it. The wing is now ready to paint. I also finished the slings on the wing cart, and the second ceiling pulley to move the wing. The left wing is now on the cart!
2010-06-09 Drill and cleco Right top aft skin Leveled and squared the wing frame, drilled and silver clecoed the top aft skin. It seems to be going quicker now that I have some clue as to what to do.
2010-06-10 Aft skins, right side Drilled and deburred to copper cleco both aft skins, also mounted flasher and ballast for landing and navigation lights, installed conduit for electric, right wing.
2010-06-12 Drill, debur, dimple right bottom foreskin, wire lights I drilled to #33, deburred,and dimpled the lower foreskin on the right wing, and wired the landing light flasher and ballast for the strobe. The right wing skin has some nasty dings in it that won't come out. Such is life.
2010-06-14 Drill and debur right top foreskin Drilled and deburred the top side of the top right foreskin. The right wing is more difficult to square than the left was, but the baling wire/turn buckle is working fine.
2010-06-15 Dimple skins on right wing I forgot to dimple the leading edge webs and the lower part of the foreskin. Got that done and primed everything. All that is left is to mount the flap and then . . . . it is ready to rivet.
2010-06-16 Finish dimpling leading edge Just when I think I've done all that needs doing, I see something I forgot. So, I removed the leading edge and dimpled the upper half of it and the ribs.
2010-06-17 Right wing flap hinge Drilled, clecoed, deburred right wing flap hinge. Primed everything and then realized I'd not drilled the hole for the tie down. Took off the lower aft skin once again.
2010-06-18 Rivet right wing skins Finally! I riveted the skins on the right wing. I drilled the flap hinge wrong - it is off 3/32 of an inch. I will cut and drill another hinge half tomorrow. The right wing has been a little harder to keep square - I think it's going to be about .040 off when I release the squaring bar.
2010-06-19 New flap hinge, tip rib I drilled, deburred, and riveted the replacement flap hinge half on the right wing, this time spacing the flap/aileron at the required 3/16 inch. Also cut,drilled, and deburred the tip rib, and mounted the navigation light adapter. The tip rib does not fit as well as the one on the left wing, so I have reinforced the front top three holes with a strip of .025 aluminum held in place with epoxy. It will be cured by tomorrow and I can then mount the tip rib.
2010-06-20 Riveted tip rib - right wing I riveted the right tip rib on - it ended up with some waves on the top leading edge. I checked all lights and wired them in, and began work on the landing light lens. Things started going wrong, so I am quitting for today.
2010-06-21 Landing light lens - right wing I finished sizing the landing light lens. The wing is done at last! I put it in the cradle and checked with Marlyn about getting it painted. It will be next week, so I will build the required suspension stuff for painting.
2010-06-23 F27-01R Verticle Channel On to the fuselage! I cut, drilled, and deburred the #1 right side vertical channel. There are 10 of these channels, and I don't see how any of the others will go faster.
2010-06-26 Vertical Ribs I finished vertical ribs # 2-3-4&5, left and right. I used #2 as a pattern for the A and B ends of the rest of them.
2010-06-28 Fairlead assmeblies I completed the four #F27-09 Fairlead assemblies. The phenolic is quite something to work with - VERY tough! I drilled the rivet holes with a regular 1/8 inch bit and a 1/4 inch wood Forstner bit. I used a 3/4 inch forstner bit for the bushing hole, cooling it with compressed air.
2010-06-29 F24 Cross ties I finished the Aft Fuselage Cross Ties F24 #'s 2 through 9. I cut the F-24 - 11 aft channel before noting it was cut differently than all others on the page. The little end angle tabs will be missing, but that should not affect the strength of the tie box it is part of. I wrote Sonex suggesting they change the measurements to allow for that problem.
2010-06-30 F24-1 Cross Tie Box I almost finished the cross tie box, but it ended up not square. I had to cut a new side for it, and that used more Z04-03, so I ordered another 4 feet of that. This time I will clamp it square with wood before drilling the final side. I also de-burred the F27 pre-machined parts.
2010-07-01 #1 aft cross tie, right aft skin I finished a corrected F24-1 aft cross tie - it's square now. Also finished deburring and putting holes in F26-01R aft skin.
2010-07-02 Deburr splice plates I deburred all F26 splice plates, and viewed F25 skin assembly. It is a very confusing drawing to say the least.
2010-07-03 Attach plates and aft skins Bent the aft skin attach plates, tried to figure out plans page F25. I still don't see how the aft skins are assembled.
2010-07-04 Head scratching - vertical and horizontal splice plates It took me forever to figure out what the plans were trying to show me. Nothing clicked until I finally figured out what was meant by horizontal and vertical. My head reels, and I feel stupid for not getting it sooner.
2010-07-05 Longerons on right side I drilled and clecoed the top longeron, drilled, de-burred, primed, and riveted lower longeron, both on right side of rear fuselage. I was a bit off today, so I quit before I destroyed something. Vertical channels are now marked and mounted with one cleco.
2010-07-06 Left Longerons Drilled and clecoed left longerons. Found mistake on page F25 - it shows using F26-05 L&R used on lower splice, I think it should be F26-07 L&R. I e-mailed Kerry at Sonex. Started laying out other parts, almost messed up, time to quit for the day.
2010-07-07 F23 - Mount and bulkhead on tail I cut and drilled the F23-02 bulkhead, and built, drilled, and riveted the F23-05 L&R mount assemblies.
2010-07-08 Push Rod supports, aft sides. Installed the aft fuselage push rod supports, worked on tail wheel supports and sides of aft fuselage
2010-07-09 F23, 25, & 22 parts I finished the aft side panels F25-01 R&L, and finally figured out, with Kerry's help, the F23 forward push rod support. The plans were not clear at all on items #12, 11, and 13. I got started on F22 01 & 06, which are at the very end of the fuselage.
2010-07-15 Bottom of aft fuselage I finally saw the F23-12 clips - I'd missed them on the plans due to the mis-numbering of F23-13 aft support. Now the stuff on page F21 is starting to make sense. I started drilling the aft bottom to the longerons. I may install some temporary aluminum rivets on the bottom so I can hold the sides in place while drilling the cross pieces. The plans call for leaving the bottom off until the plane is ready to fly. I'm also thinking of polishing the bottom.
2010-07-16 Bottom aft skin, install #5 cross tie I drilled and deburred the bottom skin and installed the #5 cross tie. I think I will polish the bottom of the bottom skin.
2010-07-17 Aft cross ties Drilled and clecoed the aft lower cross ties.
2010-07-21 Install lower cross ties I installed the lower cross ties, then flipped the aft fuselage and set up the top - measured, squared, checked and re-checked.
2010-07-22 Upper cross ties Installed upper cross ties 2, 3, 4, and 5.
2010-07-23 Aft support web Installed the aft support web, tried to figure out the tail wheel support assembly.
2010-07-25 Work on vert stab mount Took apart the vertical stabilizer spar - i wasn't supposed to rivet and bolt it all, I guess. I looked at the plans again, and still don't see where I wasn't supposed to complete it. I just can not figure out the mounting of the vertical stabilizer. If I do what the plans call for, how will I align the vertical stabilizer when the time comes. I called Jerry Dixon, the Tech Support guy.
2010-07-26 TECH VISIT Jerry Dixon came up and in a few minutes explained what it was the plans want me to do. He sure is a great help! Now that I understand, I did some prep work on the aft fuselage and tail wheel mount.
2010-07-27 Sabra visit, install cross ties and splice plate Sabra, the 25 year old who made her grandpa chase me down when I was hauling the wings, came out for an hour or so. She is very sharp, but dyslexic. She noticed things quickly, and I will invite her again. I installed the upper cross ties and the rear splice plate, and made a new bottom for the F24-01 upper front cross tie - I had to remove it so I can get at the bolts that come in from the front sides of the aft fuselage.
2010-07-28 Deburr and prepare tail wheel mount I drilled, deburred, and primed all tail wheel mount parts, marked the center of the aft fuselage, lined up the tail wheel mount, squared everything, squared the vertical stabilizer. I used a snap line and a chunk of copper pipe in the tail wheel mount to center it and get it pointed in the proper direction.
2010-07-29 Finish F21 tail cone box, F20 formers and plates. At last, I finished the aft tail cone box and the formers and plates
2010-07-30 Turtle deck skins I drilled, deburred, and primed the f19-02 turtle back skins.
2010-07-31 Set up, drilled turtle deck I set up the turtle deck skins, pilot drilled and silver clecoed the turtle deck
2010-08-01 Drill and Remove turtle deck Drilled and disassembled the turtle deck, deburred it, primed the parts, and began riveting it on to the aft fuselage. I put a few clecoes in the skins so I would have something to hold on to while inserting the turtle deck between the longeron and aft skins.
2010-08-02 Rivet turtle deck At last - riveted the turtle deck on! One more part that looks like an airplane!
2010-08-03 F17 parts firewall miscellaneous Prep work on the firewall and upper firewall. Took the firewall the the filler box to Marlyn's body shop to use the brake. They both came out well, now that I know to use another piece of .025 to make the proper radius.
2010-08-04 Upper firewall Today I finished putting the upper firewall together, except for the filler box, it is ready. I also rivet the windshield strap on.
2010-08-05 Lower forward foreskin, tunnel Z, Cross ties I finished F16- 1,2,9, and 10. The fuselage lower foreskin, tunnel Zee, upper and lower forward cross ties.
2010-08-06 Foward Fuselage Miscellaneous Finished F15- 1,2,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,and 14. Many of these were already formed but needed deburring. These are miscellaneous fuselage side and mount parts.
2010-08-07 Forward side panel Completed F14-7,8,9,10,11,12, and 13 Vertical supports and gussets.
2010-08-08 Forward angle and attach angles Finished F14-01L & R, and the two forward angle attach pieces. I had to remake one of the parts of the forward attach angles as I'd drilled the holes too close to the edge. I used some of the .032 metal that I'd bent wrong much earlier. It pays to save everything!
2010-08-11 Dimple and countersink set up for tunnel webs Received countersink tool, spent time setting it up to countersink proper depth. Also researched avionics in preparation for ordering steam gauges and moving map EFIS.
2010-08-12 Upper longerons Finished drilled, deburring, countersinking, and riveting both upper longeron assemblies. Start laying out right skin assembly.
2010-08-13 Right skin ready to debur I drilled all holes to silver and then to copper clecos. The right skin is ready to disassemble, debur reassemble, and rivet.
2010-08-14 Finished right foward fuselage skin Finished riveting all parts on right skin.
2010-08-15 Began left skin, discovered problem with right skin As I started the left skin, I noticed Detail C, which was NOT called out on the main plans. Consequently, I mounted the vertical support angles about .075 too close together. I ordered new angles, and will offset the rivet holes and use 5/32 rivets to pick up the needed spacing.
2010-08-17 Drill, cleco, debur left fwd skin I pilot drilled all holes in the F12 left skin, drilled to size, took it all apart, and deburred the skin only. Also filled imperfections in rivet additions (mis-drilled holes repaired with driven rivets.)
2010-08-18 Left skin Finished assembling F12-01L forward fuselage skin. Both sides have NACA vent hole for Van's vent system. I will have to replace the verticle wing mounts on the right side - the "C" detail was not marked on the F12 plans page and I put them too close together. I will move the new ones out about .038 inch each, giving me the proper spacing.
2010-08-19 Aft Cabin Details (clips, brackets, et cetera) The parts to repair the right skin are on the way. Today I did the F10-01, 02, 05R&L, 06, 07R&L, and 08. I made the 02 part as per plans, then discovered an update that it was to be made of 1/8 inch angle instead of Z02-03. So, I had to take it apart, but at least the angle part was made as part of the angle kit. I hope I'm not short of the Z02-03 angle now, as that was 37 inches long.
2010-08-20 Parts preparation I used this time to catch up on some clean up, and debur and organize remaining parts.
2010-08-21 Completed page F10 aft cabin details Completed cutting bending, drilling, de=burring all parts on page F10, #'s 1 through 25.
2010-08-22 Began left skin - problem with right skin I discovered I missed Detail C - it was not called out on the main plans. So, I drilled the vertical angles supporting the wing spars incorrectly. I have ordered new angles, and by offsetting the rivet holes and using 5/32 rivets should be able to pick up the needed .075 - .080 inch spacing.
2010-08-22 Seat Belt Attach Angle I'm stuck on the fuselage until I get the new angles, which won't be here until Thursday (today is Sunday.) I assembled F09-02 seat belt attach angle, but just about everything else is waiting until I can rivet the cabin skins to the aft fuselage.
2010-08-24 Seat pan Finished cutting and bending the seat pan F08-03, also 04 and o5 hinges.
2010-08-24 Seat Sling, Glare shield and panel Finished assembling the seat sling, marked out the glare shield, made F07-6,7,8,9,10 & 11 small parts. It is time for the panel, but I've not yet decided on what instruments to allow for.
2010-08-26 Repair of right skin verticals I received the new vertical rudder angles, redrilled and mounted them.
2010-08-27 Left skin Finished the left skin, set up fuselage and mounted front skins.
2010-08-31 Flip fuselage, work on bottom skin I managed to flip the fuselage with the front skins attached. Clecoed the aft bottom skin on and drilled the 3/16 holes. Set up the front bottom skin, and began drilling it. Also finished cutting, drilling, and bending the seat sling repair section, complete with TWO stick holes instead of one.
2010-09-01 Bottom skin Finished drilling and silver clecoing bottom skin. Built a rotating device to hang from the engine hoist which supports the tail so I can rotate the fuselage by myself.
2010-09-02 Tunnel Z's and firewall Drilled and clecoed forward and aft tunnel supports, installed and drilled firewall, set up for firewall supports.
2010-09-03 Drill fuselage I finished up-drilling the forward fuselage and began disassembly for de-burring, dimpling, and countersinking.
2010-09-04 Disassemble forward fuselage I disassembled the forward fuselage, deburred all the holes, dimpled and countersunk the appropriate holes, and primed most parts.
2010-09-05 Prime forward floor, polish forward floor. I masked and primed the forward floor, and polished the outside of it. I did not charge the polish time - it was off the clock. I began assembling the forward fuselage and installed the lower hinge halves on the lower firewall.
2010-09-07 Seat pan, flap and brake handles I finished repairing the seat pan, riveting on the 2-hole front with driven rivets. I also made both the flap and brake handles. The flap will be center mount, the brake on the left side. Also made the brake handle mounting bracket, only to find the completed one was part of the kit.
2010-09-08 Left side brake handle I made a new flap/brake detent angle, with the only detent being for the brake handle.
2010-09-09 Mount forward fuselage At last! I riveted on the forward fuselage (Bill Hungleman came up to check out the air riveter, and did some of the rivets.) Also riveted on the forward bottom, lower firewall, and prepared the engine mount for installation.
2010-09-10 Motor Mount Installed the motor mount and the upper firewall. Drilled the titanium gear legs after turning them to size.
2010-09-13 Drill main gear legs I had already turned the titanium gear legs to equal length and drilled the holes for mounting to the motor mount. Today I honed the motor mount holes and polished the gear legs and installed them in place. I then drilled the 1/4 inch holes which will secure the gear legs to the motor mount.
2010-09-14 Set up main gear for drilling I built a jig to hold the proper .7 degree toe in for the axles, and began drilling. The titanium is too hard to do by hand, so I have gotten maybe .030 drilled and marked, and will take it all apart and drill on the drill press.
2010-09-15 Drill gear legs Drilled the titanium gear legs - they are very hard!
2010-09-16 Set up left brakes I set up the axle assembly, cut the spacer 1/4 inch, drilled the axle for the cotter pin, and made 1/16 inch washers, 1 1/4 id by 2 1/8 inch od. These will act as seals for the shielded wheel bearings.
2010-09-17 Install main wheels Installed the main wheels, shortened the spacer sleeve.
2010-09-18 Install Main Gear, glare shield Installed main landing gear and flipped fuselage and set it on the gear! Also cut the glare shield.
2010-09-19 Drill to size Drilled all holes to size inside cabin.
2010-09-20 Drill Seat pan, begin flap brackets Drilled all the holes for the seat pan to size. Began making the brackets for dual control flap control.
2010-09-22 Make brake handle cable swivel I made the brake handle cable swivel, and when it was finished, discovered it was wrong.
2010-09-23 Made another brake swivel, prep flap handle I made a second brake swivel, correctly this time. Also began the third bearing block for the flap handle, and cut two pieces of apple wood for the flap handle grip.
2010-09-24 Mount center flap bracket Finished drilling, deburring, and clecoing the center flap bracket. I am not yet certain when to actually rivet this stuff. The flap control handle et cetera turned out quite well. I will have a center flap handle with a left side brake lever.
2010-09-29 Glare shield and interior parts I mounted the glare shield and drilled it to size. Also drilled to size all the brackets and braces inside the fuselage. Some of them are deburred, and some have now been primed.
2010-09-30 Seat hinge, floor frames, panel support I riveted as much as possible onto the aft tunnel, and riveted the seat hinge onto it also. Built 1" drop angles to extend the panel 1" down.
2010-10-01 New 5 inch wheel mount I began making the new mount for the Wicks 5" wheel.
2010-10-02 Modified panel size I am adding another inch to the bottom of the panel, and possibly another inch or two below that. I am also adding an area at each bottom corner for the Steinair vents. It is slow going, but coming along well.
2010-10-05 Glare shield, tail wheel mount More work on the modified glare shield, finished welding the 5" tail wheel swivel mount.
2010-10-06 Rudder pedals and cables, Glare shield work Installed the rudder pedals to cleco stage, made new center glare shield/firewall angle to allow for fuel opening, killed hundreds of flies.
2010-10-12 New F07-11 brackets for Steinair Vents I finally got the new Steinair Vents I ordered September 26th. Cut and drilled new F07-11 R&L support brackets. This past weekend I attended a Sport Air Workshop - Electrical, at Prineville, Oregon. Excellent presentation!
2010-10-13 Panel work More work on the modified panel. I have lowered the bottom of it by 1 inch and moved the mounting tabs onto to the glare shield.
2010-10-14 Modified panel More work on fitting the modified panel. All gauges are on the way from Aircraft Spruce and Ritchie Compass
2010-10-15 Modified panel The "new" panel will be deeper than the original, and the tabs are on the glare shield instead of on the panel. This is requiring quite a bit of modification.
2010-10-17 Mounted tail wheel, main wheel bearings I finally finished the modified tail wheel mount and mounted the tail wheel. Also removed the main gear wheels and seated the bearing races. This necessitated some machine washers under the axle nut.
2010-10-19 Right wheel tube, dual stick I can not make the right side main gear tube stop leaking. There is a problem with seating the valve core. I will contact Sonex to exchange it for a good tube. Also began assembling the control yoke.
2010-10-24 Fitting Horizontal Stabilizer Today I started fitting the horizontal stabilizer and vertical stabilizer. The horizontal tail is pretty touchy, requiring a lot of filing and fitting and filing and fitting. So far it looks like everything will indeed fit, it's just a matter of cutting, fitting, cutting, fitting. . . . .
2010-10-25 Dual control yoke Worked on and finished dual control yoke. I built a grip for the left stick out of cherry wood, and welded a cap for a push to talk switch in the top of the stick. Both sticks fit tight on the control - there is no play between them.
2010-10-26 Fit horizontal stabilizer and vertical stabilizer Spent a lot of time fitting both the horizontal and vertical stabilizers - a few thousandths of an inch at a time. The upper stop for the elevators does not contact the angle (by about 3/16 inch) it is supposed to - the cross pipe hits the vertical spar first. I will contact Sonex about this.
2010-10-29 More fitting of both horizontal and vertical stabilizers Today I drilled to size the holes for the horizontal stabilizer mount, and trimmed the skin for .030 to .060 clearance. I built a piece to add to the junction so the elevator horn would have something solid to hit, as per Sonex Kerry's instructions.
2010-10-31 Rudder hinge et cetera More work on the tail end. I riveted the lower vertical stabilizer hinge on and started work on the connecting rod between the rudder and the tail wheel. I will likely use a Heim joint on that so I can adjust it.
2010-11-01 Rudder pedals and cable installation Installed the rudder pedals and cables - all looks good so far.
2010-11-09 Rear spar carry through, page F03 Finished rudder cable fairings, worked in F03 rear spar parts and carry through. Made F03-2, 6, 7, and 8.
2010-11-10 Build rear spar carry through, connnect rudder springs I finished the rear spar carry through, but of course can't rivet it until the wings are on. Connected the rudder springs - they don't do much, some builders leave them off.
2010-11-11 Battery box Cut all parts for battery box, will bend them tomorrow. Cleaned shop so plane can be shifted, as soon as I get the new inner tube.
2010-11-14 Glare Shield Reinforcement for modified panel I cut the panel to actual size and laid out the instruments in real life size. Panel will be VERY full. I am making a reinforcement for the glare shield that will mount immediately behind the fuel tank. The reinforcement is made of .032 x 2 1/4 x 5/8 inch. I'll check with Kerry at Sonex before installing this.
2010-11-16 Reinforce panel cross tie The extended panel, full of instruments, has necessitated more reinforcement to the glare shield and panel cross tie. Today I decided to narrow the cross tie and reinforce the remaining part with 3/16 x 3/4 6061 flat bar. It has turned into quite a process.
2010-11-17 Figuring layout of panel Still laying out the panel. Getting all those instruments in that space is a bit tricky, to say the least.
2010-11-18 Cut holes in panel At last - I re-marked the re-marked holes, and cut them with Forstner bits. The instruments are as close as they can be. I also marked the screw holes. I made a jig which didn't work, and then used a 3/32 aligning punch and white paint and a tri-square. I squared the instruments and marked each one.
I called Aircraft Spruce as the EFIS was supposed to be here today. They called Grand Rapids, who said they never got a purchase order for it! Another week?
2010-11-19 Set up and drill panel mount holes I figured and set up and began drilling the mounting screw holes for the nut plates that will hold the panel onto the glare shield and cross brace support.
2010-11-20 Drill panel and Glare shield for nutplates I drilled all the holes for the nut plates in both the panel and the glare shield. They are now deburred and ready for riveting.
I also installed the nut plates in the lower panel cross support.
2010-11-21 Install nut plates Installed the last of the nutplates. Much more thinking about placement of everything on panel. It is going to be very tight.
2010-11-27 Work on cable control system I mounted the cable directors on the landing gear, and made the block that mounts on the motor mount. I also installed the cable and cable sheath, but am stuck with the cable lock/pivots that go on the brake levers on the backing plates. I don't like the way they look, and am going to do some modification. The shop is still very cold.
2010-12-02 Install flap drive tube and misc I decided to install the flap drive tube (C04-09) for real. Well, it binds in the bushings. I also made some particle board floor inserts. They will go away when I get the carpet.
2010-12-03 Moved Throttel Quadrant I have decided to move the throttle quadrant to the wing tunnel. It will be in the center, just above thigh height. I put it there and sat in the seat, and it feels good. It will be right in line with the flap control handle, yet with room for both.
2010-12-04 Working on panel design More figuring and moving things around to make them fit. I have not started on the new panel, but am finishing up the original one to make sure everything clears. So far I'll have to move the transponder 1/8 inch, and that means moving the EGT, oil, and amp gauges, and possibly the hour meter, which will mean relocating some switches, and on and on. Packing so many things in that tiny panel is quite a project.
2010-12-05 Cut panel #2, cut gauge holes After measuring 3 times,I marked, cut, and bored panel #2. This one will be dropped 1 1/4 inches below the original, with no lip below the cross piece.
2010-12-06 Drilled instrument mount holes I can't believe how much time I'm spending on this panel! I made two jigs for boring the different sized gauge mounting holes. Also figured out the spacing for the switch/circuit breaker area. I'll pick up some 1/4 x 2 inch aluminum tomorrow morning so I can lower the lower panel support another 1/4 inch. I also made a switch guard for the starter switch if I use the mini-rocker switch there.
2010-12-08 Lowering modification I got the lowering plates done, but still have to modify the air vent mounting plates.
2010-12-08 Made a tail wheel cart I finished building a 2-caster cart for the tail wheel. I still have to figure out the angle of the handle, but it works well. It jacks up the tail wheel onto the dual casters, then you can move the plane anywhere you want.
2010-12-09 Vent support brackets I had to make a new right side vent bracket and both a new top and side spacer. The right side was okay with only a 3/16 inch top spacer. Why? I don't know but everything lines up. I will have to make the bottom panel screw holes a bit oblong, but it will work fine. I checked the gauge fit, and they are fine. It looks like the circuit breakers will fit too, but I won't drill for them until the EFIS gets here - the one I ordered in October!
2010-12-10 Finished fitting panel to airplane At last, it looks like the panel will fit the cross support, and all of it fits the fuselage. I won't know if it is correct until I get the EFIS which was supposed to be here today. However, Aircraft Spruce says the factory will send Monday, the exact thing they said last Friday. UGH!
2010-12-11 Reinforce wheel pants I added one layer of fiberglass reinforcement to the areas that will mount to the axle and backing plate.
2010-12-13 Wheel Pants Fitted the wheel pants. Now I am going to make some form-fitting tire fairings for them.
2010-12-14 Prepare shop and fuselage for wing installation Today I de-cluttered the shop a bit and set the fuselage for wing installation. I had to drill out several rivets to remove the vertical stabilizer.
2010-12-17 Install wings! Bill Hungelmann and Jerry Dixon (TC) came up this morning and we installed the wings! We also rigged them. The next step will be to disassemble everything, de-burr, and rivet in place. It went quite well, and sure looks good with the wings on. The holes in the fuselage that I was so concerned about were perfect.
2010-12-18 Updrill, deburr, cleco, rivet rear spar connector Now that the wings fit, it is time to do all the disassembly, re-drilling, deburring, and riveting. I got some of it done today.
2010-12-21 Adjust wing mounts I put the fuselage on blocks like I should have to begin with. The right wing is 10 mm higher than the left. I removed the right wing and did some removal of the skin, but can't get the wing all the way back in. Piss on it for tonight.
2010-12-22 Final drill rear spar, right main spar I set wings up again, and bored the rear spar to 5/16 and pinned it. I finish bored the right wing main spar and am ready to final drill the left spar. This time the fuselage is sitting solid on stands.
2010-12-23 More fitting It took a long time to get the wings lined up and level again, but I finally did and drilled the right wing to size. I also reinforced the vertical aft support as the hole was wallowed out. I may have to reinforce the front one later.
Since it is all set up, I will drill the left wing to 3/8 inch tomorrow. Right now the wings are within 3 mm of each other. I don't know what they will be when I remove the right side shim. Whatever, that's how they will be.
2010-12-27 Layout of switches and circuit breakers I finally decided on the location of 7 of the switches and laid them out on the panel. I still have to master, master charge, and starter switch to locate. That panel is tight, to say the least.
2010-12-28 Finished drilling all panel holes I finished laying out and drilling all the holes in the panel. A total of 174 holes of varying sizes doesn't leave much aluminum.
2010-12-29 Finished drilling main wing attach bolts. Panel work. i finally drilled the left wing attach bolt. Both are finished, so the wings are officially in place. The right wing is about 7mm lower than the left, but that is where it will stay. The measurement from tail to wing each side is right to specs, as is the aft edge of the wing measurement to the lower longeron. I also painted the glare shield and the vent mount/panel support parts. The panel looks great - the paint wrinkled just like it was supposed to. I forgot to drill for the post lights, so will have to add 5 more tiny holes for them.
2010-12-30 Switches, circuit breakers, lights I finished drilling the last 6 holes (for a total of 180) in the panel, and installed (temporarily?) the switches, post lights, and idiot lights. The wrinkle finish turned out well, but is very soft.
2010-12-31 Wired circuit breakers and some switches. I made a power buss by flattening a 10 gauge copper wire and drilling it to fit the breakers. I had to keep softening the copper as it work-hardened. I also started wiring the switches to the circuit breakers.
2011-01-01 Wiring landing and strobe light switches Wired the landing light switch, several times. Since I am using a diode in the indicator light circuits, it is quite a learning curve. It involves soldering, unsoldering, and resoldering far too many times. The strobe switch is next, and it is the same setup so shouldn't be too difficult.
2011-01-06 Installed all instruments I installed all the instruments and finished wiring the circuit breakers. All switches are installed now too. The panel is painted wrinkle black and looks good.
2011-01-11 Install flaps Installed both flaps and flap controls.
2011-01-14 Adjust flaps I adjusted the flaps and modified the bracket that holds the flap handle in place. It was not holding the flaps in the middle position; now it does.
2011-01-15 Fit wing root doublers I fitted the wing root doublers. There was an excellent method on Sonextalk: cleco the doublers to the wing using the inner rivet hole in the outer hole of the wing. This offsets the doubler exactly 1/2 inch. Then mark the doubler at 1/2 plus the clearance (1/6/ to 1/32 inch) I made a doo-dad out of a small piece of aluminum angle. I drilled a #57 hole exactly 17/32 from the edge, counterbored it with a #38 so a extra fine Sharpie would fit. Then I marked the doubler, removed it, and cut at the line. It worked very well.
2011-01-16 Trim wing root doublers Now it's down to the wire with the wing root doublers. I am trimming them to .032 (1/32") clearance. This involves installing and removing them several times and sanding the parts needing more clearance.
2011-01-17 Right control stick push to talk button I welded a dished slug into the right stick top and drilled it for the push button switch.
2011-01-18 Right control grip Today I finally made the wood grip for the right control stick. I had to make two of them, the first was too small O.D. I
2011-01-19 Install frame that holds control sticks I forgot to start the time clock. I riveted the entire floor frame - the one that holds the sticks. All lined up perfectly.
2011-01-21 Modify throttle quadrant mount I modified the throttle mount bracket so the rivets are countersunk, allowing them to drop low enough to fasten aft tunnel zee to cross brace.
2011-01-22 Rivet tunnel and panel supports Riveted the top rivets on the tunnel support and the side brackets and gussets. There are several rivets that can't be pulled until the wings are off.
2011-01-23 Fit panel Fit the panel and measured the degree it is offset. It sits at 63 degrees when the fuselage is level.
2011-01-24 Fit mounting screw holes, magnometer mount I made a mount for the magnometer, but need to check with GRT to be sure the panel unit at 63 degrees and the magnometer at 27 degrees is okay. I also enlarged several panel mounting screw holes to fit the mounts.
2011-01-27 Fuel tank straps I cut the gas tank straps too short, so today had to extend them. I also cleaned the fuel tank holes and glued on the felt strips. Tomorrow I'll clean the tank and see about mounting it. I also made a cardboard template for a plate in the fuel filler hole.
2011-01-28 Prepare shop and block for engine assembly I cleaned off the 5x5 foot table and lined the top with new cardboard. Remove slag and smoothed the sharp edges on the block, and washed the two halves with hot soapy water.
2011-01-30 Install USB port and cable I finally got the 18 inch extension with panel mount USB port. I installed it on the panel so I can access the EFIS from the front.
2011-01-31 Install prop hub, blueprint oil pump I cooled the crank in the freezer for 28 hours, heated the prop hub and cam gear to 475 in the oven, and put it all together as per instructions. The prop slipped on just like a sock on a chicken's lip. The oil pump had excessive clearance between the gears and the cover, so I dressed the body down with 600 wet or dry on a piece of plate window glass. I also flattened the pump cover. I dressed the ID tag in the cam shaft so it won't interfere with the rods. I also sent the pistons to Performance Coatings to have the tops coated with ceramic, and the valve covers to have the heat-sucking coat put on.
I started to put the rods on the crank, and discovered the rods need a 11mm 12-point socket instead of the 14mm six point shown in the instructions. I don't have the proper socket.
2011-02-01 Install connecting rods I installed the rods on the crank as per instructions. All went well; the clearance was .0015 - right on the money.
2011-02-01 Tail fairings I finished cutting, trimming, and drilling the two tail fairings. They are like a beautiful woman; not a straight line anywhere.
2011-02-02 Painted heads I washed the heads in hot soapy water, dried them, and sprayed them with flat black. Then I put them in the oven at 250 degrees for a couple of hours.
2011-02-02 Bolted on the tail I decided to mount the tail more or less permanently. I bolted on the horizontal and vertical stabilizers.
2011-02-03 Oil restrictor, began assembly I go the screw extractor and tap from McMaster Carr. Drilled and removed the restrictor, tapped the hole, and installed the plug with teflon thread paste.
I began assembly of the engine. Got the crank and cam in the right half. It all looks and feels good so far.
2011-02-05 Assembled case I put the case together - all went well; it is very tight. I can still turn it, but it's as tight as a 327 Chev, and the cylinders aren't on yet. All the bearing clearances are on the tight side of specifications, but there is no way to check the #1 main, and it was tight when I put it on the crank.
2011-02-06 Began cylinder assembly I started assembling the cylinder. I washed the cylinders and got as far as the #1 jug on, but am having problems finding TDC. I think I'll have to buy an actual VW engine stand.
2011-02-07 Redrill for two mag/ign switches I got the 10-amp Tyco circuit breaker/toggle switch. I made a patch panel to hold it and an on-off switch for the magnetos and fitted it to the panel where the original two-way mag switch with indicator lights was. The paint is drying on the patch and I will install it tomorrow.
2011-02-07 Installed right vertical to horizontal tail fairing. I drilled and installed the right fairing, but will wait until I figure out the trim cable routing on the right side. The plans call for it to go above the horizontal stabilizer, but it seems to me it should go below it.
2011-02-09 Finish install of vertical tail and tail light I finished riveting the tail end of the fuselage and installed the tail light with shielded wire. When I started to install the elevator I discovered it has to go on BEFORE the vertical tail. So, that's why the vertical tail is mounted using bolts, nuts, and screws. Damn!
2011-02-10 Install elevator Now that the vertical stabilizer is off once again, I installed the elevators. It was much more hassle putting the thing together.
2011-02-11 Install vertical stabilizer and rudder I installed both the vertical stabilizer and rudder. The rudder was more hassle to install than the first, second, and third times. Putting the hinge pins in all the way is saying it's ready! Quite a step for me. I also started installing the controls. So far all I have is the rear elevator control tube. Getting the bushings to specs takes some sanding and fitting, but so far so good.
2011-02-12 Installed trim and rudder controls I installed the trim cable and trim lever, and hooked up the rudder control cables. I started on the elevator controls, and will finish them next.
2011-02-14 Elevator rod connection and pivot guard I set, drilled, and bolted the elevator control rod. I also built a doghouse to cover the transition pivot on the control rod. It has a Lexan removable top. It is primed and drying and will be installed as soon as I get another AN4-7 bolt and castle nut, which are on order from ACS.
2011-02-15 Balance left aileron I sanded off the bad paint on top of the aileron and balanced it. I started to install it and found I am missing one flanged bushing for the rod end. Damn! I just sent an order to ACS. I'll go to town tomorrow and see if I can find one.
2011-02-16 Install right wing aileron link It was tight in there with two wrenches, two hands, and a flashlight, but I managed to get the right aileron link connected to the bell crank in the wing - through that 4 inch hole. I also installed 3 bushings on the right side of the fuselage and ran the wire for the tail light.
2011-02-17 Install right aileron I sanded the right aileron, balanced it, and installed it. It is not yet adjusted. I added some lead washers on the outside of the lead section to balance it.
2011-02-22 Install left aileron Installed the left aileron and began attaching control rods.
2011-02-22 Prepared mounting holes for belly strobe I drilled the mounting hole and holes for mounting the belly strobe. It is mounted in the center just in front of the wing spars.
2011-02-23 Rigged flaps and ailerons It took a little time, but everything came into adjustment well. Both flaps and ailerons are now adjusted as per plans.
2011-02-24 Working on deck height I got the VW engine stand, and after modifying it to actually fit the engine, began setting the deck height. NOwhere does Sonex tell me what the actual deck height is - they only have combinations of shims, which drives me nuts. I think the deck height is supposed to be .130 inches. I've put out a call for help on the AeroVee builders site.
2011-02-24 Finished installing flaps and ailerons. I put the hinge pins in and installed the cotter pins. The only way to remove those hinge pins now is to pull the wings. I also installed a control bungee - It seems a bit long, and of course it's nearly impossible to shorten it once you have installed the hooks and lock rings.
2011-02-25 Install belly strobe I installed both the strobe and the control box - no wiring yet.
2011-02-25 Deck height More work on the deck height. Kerry at Sonex says the actual deck height for 100LL should be .12 to .13. I have ordered .10; .20; and .30 shims. More delays!
2011-02-27 Cut one fairing I laid out and cut one fairing. I have a large French Curve from a dressmaker that helped with the curves.
2011-02-27 Began seat pan #2 Since I screwed up the first seat pan by cutting it for single stick and then patching it, I decided to make a new seat pan.
2011-02-28 Right fairing I finished cutting and trimming both gear leg fairings, and got the right side drilled and countersunk and primed. It is ready to rivet and bend.
2011-02-28 Seat pan #2 I got the seat pan all cut and trimmed and 2/3 drilled. Now it is time to bend it.
2011-03-02 Bend new seat pan Bent the new seat pan and drilled for hinges.
2011-03-02 Rebuilt wing cart I disassembled the wing cart and strenghthend the cart. Now I can load the wings on the truck without the cart falling apart.
2011-03-02 Bent left fairing I riveted on the hinges with solid rivets and bent the left gear fairing. They both appear too long. Maybe they will be okay once the engine is on.
2011-03-02 Cut canopy hinges I found some parts of solid hinges that were long enough, so I cut them and readied them for drilling. It's still to cool in the shop to install the windshield and canopy.
2011-03-03 Tech visit, remove wings Jerry Dixon (Tech Counselor) and Bill Hungelmann came up and we removed the wings. Jerry said all was okay except I have been putting my bolts in upside down, which I did on purpose. So, I will put the nuts on the bottom where you can't see them to make sure they are on during pre-flight.
2011-03-04 Disassemble engine The crank locked up and I discovered two of the rods were hitting the case. I had checked this during assembly, but when these two rods are centered they hit the case. I split the case and removed another 50-60 thousands of an inch in those spots, and discovered that damned #1 bearing had seized on the crank. So, I have to remove the sweated-on hub and have the #1 main polished down to fit a new bearing. So - onward.
2011-03-05 Small parts for canopy Made some of the small parts that I will use to mount the windshield and canopy.
2011-03-05 Changed direction of bolts As per direction of the TC, I changed the direction of several bolts. I had them nuts up so I could make sure they were properly in place. Apparently A&P's do it the other way.
2011-03-08 Disassemble AeroVee The AeroVee seized as I was turning the crank to the next cylinder. I split the case and took the crank to Barne's Machine in Waterville. We pulled the hub and discovered either the crank is too large, the bearing too small, or the case bore too small. I contacted Sonex and am sending the case, crank, and #1 bearing back to them. They may fix it, or they may say it's my fault. It is not my fault, but they say I need to buy a new prop hub because we used heat to pull it off. Of course the instructions say if you pull it without heat you have to replace it and have the crank magnafluxed. So, another set back.
2011-03-09 Engine problem - major The crank seized while I was setting the deck height. Two of the rods were hitting the case, even though I had checked that before assembly. Now that the rods have to be centered, they hit. While I was checking where to removed case material, the crank actually seized. I split the case and removed the rods. Then I took the crank to Waterville and we pressed the prop hub off. There was a mark on the crank and the front bearing was galled. Micrometer measurement showed the crank on the large side of specs. I contacted Sonex, and as a result sent the crank, bearing, and case to them for inspection and resolution. Damn!
2011-03-11 Reinforce wing mount The right front wing mount hole was slightly wallowed out, so I built a reinforcement plate and riveted it in place. Also began riveting the spots that were inaccessible when the wings were on.
2011-03-13 Rivet main spar tunnel I finished riveting the main spar tunnel. These were the rivets that couldn't be accessed while the wings were on. I used solid "D" rivets in some places where it was not possible to get a rivet puller in.
2011-03-14 Mount Battery Box I began mounting the battery box. What a hassle! I made each side and the bottom removable with hinge and pins, so it is quite flexible.
2011-03-16 Battery Box I didn't like where the battery box ended up as per plans - it was too close to the motor mount. So, I removed it and extended the bottom lip and put a hinge on the right side top move it up. There are now hinges on both sides and the bottom, so I can remove the front or right side of the box.
2011-03-16 NEW HANGER ! The deal closed today. I now own hanger #4 at the Cashmere airport! It is only 32 by 40, but perfect for me and the Sonex.
2011-03-17 Gascolator bracket I worked on a bracket to mount the gascolator to the firewall. I have decided to use the gascolator instead of a filter. I spent over half this time looking for a bag of AN fittings the I got from Wicks. No luck so far.
2011-03-21 Windshield bow The 1/2 inch aluminum rod was partially bent from Sonex, but it took quite a bit of time to get it to the proper radius of 17 13/16 inches.
2011-03-22 Cargo area fence I bent, drilled, and primed some strips to support the aluminum fence at the rear of the cargo compartment.
2011-03-22 Windshield nut plate strios I cut the edges off some unused channel and made two strips that will support nut plates for the inside of the windshield. This will allow me to install the windshield by myself.
2011-03-24 Cargo fence I had to re-make one of the rivet strips for the fence, but now it is all ready to rivet into place. I will be using all-aluminum 3/32 rivets, as this is non-structural.
2011-03-25 Windshield and Battery Box I finished installing the nut plates on the strips that will hold the windshield on. Also drilled some more holes to rivet the battery box onto the firewall.
2011-03-25 Engine case received The engine case and crank arrived today from Sonex. I have not yet opened the box.
2011-03-26 Battery Box - DONE! What a project! I finally got the battery box sized, drilled, de-burred, and riveted. It has hinges on all the front and the rear of the right side. The battery fits with some stiff foam padding.
2011-03-27 Install rear baggage screen I finally rivet in the screen at the lower rear baggage area - it looks good.
2011-03-27 Polish Crank I polished the crank to remove the scratches from the tight #1 bearing. The NEW bearing fits fine - the "old" one that I thought was too tight is still too tight!
2011-03-28 Gascolator heat shield I set the gascolator in place and drilled the mounting holes. Then I began designing a heat-shielding box;that will send cool air via a 1" scat hose to keep the gascolator cool.
2011-03-29 Cut and marked Heat Shield for Gascolator I finished making a cardboard pattern and cut some .025 6061-T6 aluminum for the Gascolator heat shield. I will bend it tomorrow.
2011-03-29 Install prop hub on crank, put rods on crank I heated the crank gear in oil and put it on, then heated the prop hub in the oven to 450 degrees F and put it on. I broke the bolt that holds the prop hub on, so I had to drill the threaded part still in the crank and make an easy-out. It came right out. I had to go to Wenatchee to get a new bolt. This one is a 10.1 hardness, the old one was 8.8. I started assembling the crank and couldn't find my red loctite (until I drove to town, bought a new tube, and opened it. Then the bottle of red appeared.) I can't find one of the 6 o-rings that seal the case through-bolts, so will have to go to Wenatchee tomorrow morning. I just have to accept that I misplace things.
2011-03-30 Relieve case to clear rods. As I began assembly (again) the rods hit the case. I thought I'd taken care of that, but this time every one of them clears by at least .045 inches. I then washed the case(s) in hot soapy water to get all the magnesium chips out. Tomorrow, at last, I can begin assembly!
2011-03-30 Gascolator heat shield I finished the gascolator heat shield. It looks great, and has a 1 inch hose nipple sticking out the top for a scat hose.
2011-03-31 Close case, Install two (2) cylinders I put the two case halves together, and the crank turns just fine this time. I set up two of the cylinders and the T-gauge to set deck height. Both deck heights are exactly .060, which is what I wanted. I haven't put sealer under them yet as I'm not ready to install the cylinder head.
2011-04-05 Cylinders I installed one more cylinder, and have the final one ready to measure. Where does the tin go? I have that question on the board.
2011-04-06 Install heads - studs too long I installed the cylinder heads and all went well. That is, until I tried to install the rocker arms. The shafts hit the cylinder studs! The book says the studs are 9 5/16 to 9 3/4 inches long. Well, 9 5/16 would be fine; 9 3/4 is too damned long! So, it looks like I have to take off the heads and cut the studs to proper length. Boy, is VW work fun!
2011-04-07 Cut more studs, install rocker arms, oil drain drill Well, the two studs I thought I didn't need to cut, needed to be cut. I installed one rocker arm setup and cut four pushrods to length. I also drilled the oil screen so the oil temperature sender will fit, and installed a 1/4 to 1/8 inch pipe thread bushing for the sender.
2011-04-08 Rocker arms, oil pan cover, oil pump install I cut the rest of the push rods and installed the rocker arms and set the valves. I also set up the oil pan cover for the oil temperature sender, and installed it. Three of the studs were too short to use the copper washers, so I hope it doesn't leak. I used the special seal for all gaskets. I installed the oil pump too.
2011-04-09 Spark plugs, block-off plates I got all but one block-off plates on. The lower oil plate needs to be drilled and tapped for 3/8 pipe thread. The manual says it is already tapped. I also set the plugs and installed them, and cut off 4 more cylinder studs because they hit the intake manifolds. I'm stuck again because I need a 15mm bit(or 19/32)to tap the oil return tube hole, and some #272 LocTite, which is red but also high temperature.
2011-04-11 Torque Prop Hub, install flywheel and mount I torqued the prop hub at long last, using the new grade 8 hub bolt with blue Loctite. I also installed the flywheel and engine mount, but can't torque the flywheel until I get some #272 Loctite.
2011-04-11 Install Voltage regulator I installed nut plates and mounted the voltage regulator. I ran out of #10 nut plates, so I can only install 1 1/2 of the coils.
2011-04-12 Finish assembly I borrowed some #272 Loctite and a 250 foot pound torque wrench and finished assembling the engine. I put on the mounting plate and the magneto coils and the alternator and static set the timing.
2011-04-12 Hung the engine I hung the engine on the mount. Then I was able to start figuring out the location of the cable pass-throughs and the electronic ignition coils. It looks like it's going to work out quite well. I had to disassemble the AeroCarb and change the direction of the slide so everything will work with the new throttle set up.
2011-04-13 Begin fit of right cowl, rivet battery box, fit manifolds. I fully installed the manifolds, marked and drilled for exhaust temperature senders, and removed them for shipping to be coated. I still have to make the cabin heater before sending it all for coating. I started fitting the right cowl - lots of underneath work, and off and on far too many times.
2011-04-15 Begin cowl fitting Wow! This cowl does not agree with the plans or my brain. It appears there is a 3/4 inch hump at the right rear on the right top. I have contacted the discussion board for help.
2011-04-17 Fit windshield I decided to fit the windshield before working on the cowl. I did get an excellent reply on my cowl problem, and will have to section it in order to make it fit properly on the right side.
2011-04-20 Windsheild work I drilled and tapped the rear windshield holes and those in the windshield and strap. It looks like it will all line up. I also trimmed the sides of the windshield.
2011-04-26 Build heater muff The exhaust manifolds are at Pacific Performance Coatings getting a 2000 degree coating. The heat muff will fit on 11 inches of the left exhaust pipe. I think another hour or two and it will be complete. It will have a 2 inch cold air inlet and a 1 1/2 hot air outlet. I will fill the space in it with stainless steel mesh of some kind.
2011-04-27 Finish Heater Muff I finished making the heater muff box. It has a 1 1/4 inlet and outlet for the exhaust pipe, and a 2 inch and 1 1/2 inch inlet and outlet. It is all 6061 T6 .032 material.
2011-04-28 Install windshield I finished drilling and tapping for the windshield. I also painted the bow and the strap flat black on the bottom side. The strap is polished on top.
2011-04-28 Nut plates for glare sheild. I decided to make nut plates for the very forward bolts of the glare shield. I will have 3 on each side on a piece of .032, and the rear of the front 4 will have a nut plate directly on the longeron. I hope to never need to remove the glare shield, but if I do I won't have to have a contortionist upside down to hold those 8 front nuts. It is taking time, but it's the way I want it built.
2011-05-02 Throttle and Mixture cables Design cable layout, drill firewall, install cable squeeze firewall passage mounts.
2011-05-03 Install throttle and mixture cables and cable support I designed, built, and installed the cable support that goes from the throttle quadrant to the firewall. I also cut the mixture cable to length, and installed both cables. It looks good to me.
2011-05-04 Install gascolator and fuel bulkhead fitting I installed the gascolator and bulkhead fitting - next is the actual fuel line. The gascolator is about 1 inch below the injector, so it looks like the fuel will flow properly.
2011-05-04 Modify right cowl. Marlyn came by and helped me decide how to modify the cowl so it will fit properly. I cut a line about 14 inches long on the top bend, and will patch it with fiberglass as soon as I get some Acetone.
2011-05-05 Cabin heat valve I designed and made a valve for the firewall where the heat will come through.
2011-05-05 Oil vent tube/lines I figured out the routing and length of the oil vent tubing, hose, and fittings.
2011-05-05 Install heat muff on exhaust pipe I have had the manifold pipes and the heat muff ceramic coated. I did a slight modification to make the muff fit the pipe and figured where to cut the hole in the firewall for cabin heat.
2011-05-06 Cowl fitting I started on the left cowl and got it to fit more or less. Then I put the right one back on - hard to believe I'm working on the same airplane! They are coming back into line, but there is a lot of on and off.
2011-05-09 Cowl halves different? I fitted the left cowl half today, and it does not match the right. The front bump is about an inch and a half higher on the right side. One guy on the discussion board says I need to trip more off the side, bottom, and top to make it fit. I think he is right.
2011-05-10 Remove and modify right cowl half Well, here we go. I drilled out the rivets and removed the hinges. It looks like I will have to remove another inch to inch and a half.
2011-05-11 Fitting right cowl More work on the cowl. I ended up cutting more off the right side, and patching the spot where I removed material early on.
2011-05-14 Fitting right cowl More work on the right cowl - it is getting closer each time.
2011-05-15 Fit both cowl halves I installed the hinge halves back on the cowls - the right in a new spot, the left back in the same holes as first time.
I put the windshield back on and cut the top of the cowls to fit. It looks like they will actually fit!
2011-05-16 Fitting cowls Off - on - off - on - off - on ad infinitem. Each time I'm getting closer, I hope. I did get the three Southco Fastener holes done on the right cowl.
2011-05-17 On to the left cowl. I took the right cowl off and started finish fitting the left one. I have to add back about 1/8 inch on the top of the left cowl, and plug the bottom hole where the gascolator is on the right side. I also added about 5/16 inch to the front of the right cowl where the prop hub is. Fiberglass work is quite messy to say the least.
2011-05-21 Body work on cowl The cowl halves fit well enough I started body working them - adding fiberglass impregnated body filler to make them fit the front and back better. I'll have to cut the bottom very soon, as well as put on the hinges for the top and bottom.
2011-05-22 Fitting cowls together Off, on, off, on, cut, on, off, sand, on, off, cut, sand on, off - will it never end? The two halves are getting closer.
2011-05-25 Drill and cleco hinges on cowl halves At last the cowls halves fit. I drilled and clecoed the top and bottom hinge halves. I will have to do some fiberglass work on the front near the hub to make them match.
2011-05-26 More cowl work I built up the hub area with fiberglass - it had a gap at the bottom.
2011-05-28 Fitting cowls together I finally got all four hinges clecoed on. What a bugger! I am still fine-tuning the hub area, but it is getting much closer.
2011-05-29 Cowl finishing More cut and trim and fill and sand.
2011-05-30 Rivet hinges on cowl Finally! I was able to rivet on the top and bottom center hinges. I also removed and shimmed the side hinges. I added a .032 shim to bring the cowl closer to the fuselage side. I also radiused the curves inside the inlets.
2011-05-31 Semi - final fitting of cowl More fine-tuning. I did cut the gas door to size and added fiberglass to the cowl on the hinge side as it shrinks .060 from the edge to the front end of the hinge. I'll drill the first pilot holes for the bottom aft hinges tomorrow. It is impossible to spot the rivet holes due to the motor mount, so I shined a flashlight and marked where the hole should be. Right.
2011-06-01 Finish fitting left cowl! YES! It actually fits, and I can insert the hinge pins.
2011-06-02 Finish fitting right cowl I finished fitting the right cowl - the two halves fit together and the pins go in! I also made the right side exhaust outlet deflector, but will not rivet it until I get a small deflector made for the gascolator. That one will be of fiberglass.
2011-06-03 Cowl air deflectors I installed the two air deflectors that make a vacuum so the intake air will flow properly. I also made a small fiberglass deflector in front of the gascolator hole. I added .100 inch of fiberglass mat and cloth to where the gas lid lock will go.
2011-06-19 Oil fill door Cut hole for hinged oil fill door on right front of cowl.
2011-06-24 Oil fill door on cowl Finishing work on oil fill door.
2011-06-25 Fuel door Began fuel fill door, cut hole for door lock. I used a cabinet drawer lock, coountersunk by adding the appropriate amount of fibereglass on the bottom side.
2011-06-26 Fuel door Finished construction of fuel fill door.
2011-06-30 Began work on cooling baffles I began fitting the pre-cut baffles.
2011-07-01 Oil cooler baffle Began the setup of the cooling baffle for the oil cooler.
2011-07-02 Finished oil cooler baffle I got the baffle for the oil cooler to fit - it still must have the seal applied.
2011-07-03 Baffling system - well named! It is a baffling system, to be sure. I finally got the pieces into the proper location.
2011-07-04 Began mounting baffling system I'm taking it easy, thinking it through, and it's actually starting to make sense.
2011-07-10 Mixture mount, bottom seat cushion I had to redesign the mixture control mount, raising it up to clear the seat cushion. I also marked the seat cushion so Oregon Aero can trim it.
2011-07-11 Baffles and oil cooler hose More work on fitting the cooling baffles and the oil cooler hoses.
2011-07-12 Fit baffles to cowl, install CHT probes. More cutting and sanding to baffles, and installed the CHT probes. They are the ones that screw to the cylinder head close to the top spark plugs.
2011-07-13 Cut oil cooler air inlet hole, cooler hoses I finished trimming and sanding the hole under the prop for the oil cooler air inlet, installed the gascolator hose, and the cooler oil hoses.
2011-07-21 PAINT AT LAST I lost track of the hours involved in preparation for painting. The important thing is that it is at last painted.
2011-07-25 Cabin details - heat vents, transponder, fire extinguisher Now that it is painted, I am re-enthused. I installed a small Halon fire extinguisher, connected the fresh air vents, and cut the firewall hole for the cabin heat.
2011-07-26 Cabin heat control I designed and began installing a lever to control the heat valve on the inside of the firewall.
2011-07-28 Finished cabin heat control It took some doing, including changing the throttle cable, but the cabin heat control valve, cable, and operating lever are all finished.
2011-07-29 Main solenoid and ground wire through firewall I mounted the main solenoid and used one of the mounting bolts to pass the ground through the firewall. I also put small ground buss bars on each side of the fuselage. Made and partially installed the battery to engine ground cable.
2011-07-30 Re-install cowl Put the cowl back on so everything will be in place for the artwork paint. It is very difficult to get it to fit.
2011-07-30 Install more wires under the cowl. I grounded the two Briggs and Stratton magneto coils - not as easy as it sounds. Also installed the oil temperature sender in the oil pan.
2011-08-03 Canopy frame Began final shaping of bows and fitting of same.
2011-08-04 Fitting Canopy Frame
2011-08-05 Fitting baffles More work on fitting baffles to engine.
2011-08-06 Baffles for fresh air to carb I built a nice little air scoop and put in in the right front to pick up air that will duct to the carb for fresh cool air. Also covered the exposed parts of the exhaust pipes.
2011-08-15 Sort engine wires and make firewall passthough I made an angled 5/8 diameter pass through for the 2 - 8 gauge wires from the regulator to the panel circuit breaker.
2011-08-15 Wiring pass through Installed the pass through and grounded the voltage regulator.
2011-08-16 Adjusting baffles, add one I added a cover plate to cover the starter drive hole in the bell housing. I put the right cowl on and am marking the baffles to be cut for the "d" seal.
2011-08-17 Baffles and seals Measured baffle clearance and began cutting the "P" seals.
2011-08-18 Baffle seals Started installing baffle seals.
2011-08-19 Install baffle seals Quite tedious work - the cowl goes on and off far too often. The right cowl is a really difficult to install.
2011-08-20 Install more baffle seals. I've not yet tried installing the left cowl with the seals, but I'm going to install the final one, the rear.
2011-08-21 Rear Baffle Seal Installed (with clecoes) the rear baffle seal. Now all but the oil cooler inlet baffle seals are installed.
2011-08-22 Installed exhaust pipes and holding springs. Installed both exhaust pipes and the springs that hold them in place.
2011-08-22 Installed heat muff and hoses I installed the heat muff I made, and also hooked up the Sceet hoses to feed it and take the heated air to the cabin. I have a shut off door on both the inlet and outlet ends. Open for winter, closed for summer. The one in the cabin is controlled by a lever under my left knee.
2011-08-23 Wired in the shunt I wired in the voltmeter/ammeter shunt - 8 gauge shielded wire, no less.
2011-08-24 Finished firewall forward wiring I got up the nerve to drill another hole in the firewall and finished running the wires from the engine et cetera to the cabin.
2011-08-26 Shortened intake manifold After contemplating it far too long, I cut the bulge off the intake manifold to allow the AeroCarb to clear cowling. I drilled and tapped and installed 3 - 8/32 x very short screws to hold the intake hose on. I'll also put some heat shrink on the intake to bring it up to the same size as the carburetor.
2011-08-28 Tech Visit Jerry Dixon and Bill Hungelmann came up and checked out my work under the cowl. They found a few things I need to change. I'll put a longer bolt in the motor mount in the right top so I can put a jam nut on it. Also put a rubber cushion around the crankcase vent pipe. I re-routed the oil temperature wire so it is no longer dangling under the oil cooler. I will order and install boots on the battery cables - I kept forgetting those and now the ends are crimped on. I also ordered a 90 degree fitting for the bottom of the crankcase vapor canister. They both said the workmanship is top notch, and that felt good.
2011-08-29 More work on cold air intake I got more done on making the housing for the air filter cold air intake. I reinforced the bottom of it and will eliminate the heavy bottom plate from the AeroFilter. It's quite a project, but I think cool air will be quite beneficial.
2011-08-30 New Air filter housing Adding the inlet spout to the housing is turning into quite a project. There is not much clearance for anything in that area, and the spout must be at the perfect angle.
2011-08-31 Fresh air for air filter More work on making the intake tube fit the filter housing.
2011-09-01 Under cowl wire tie downs I tied down all the loose wires under the cowl. Well, most of them. I'll need the stuff coming from Aircraft Spruce to finish.
2011-09-02 Canopy frame I removed the boards I had on the rear and added a one-half inch piece of plywood cut to fit. It looks better but it still has me baffled, as it were.
2011-09-03 Cnopy frame I got brave and drilled and tapped the right longeron to hold the canopy hinge. I'm removing metal a tiny bit at a time from the bows.
2011-09-04 Canopy frame Mostly standing around scratching my head. The frame is getting closer to fitting.
2011-09-06 Under cowl I got the new silicone boots from Aircraft spruce so I had to remove a few of the cables and add the boots. I also found two slip on connectors for the Briggs and Statton coils and put the wires on the "P" terminals. Now I have to wait for the small heat shrink so I can run the two wires through the firewall. I also installed a new switch for shorting out the mags. I had a single pole double throw, but I learned if you run both "P" wires into one, it will either ground out or reduce the spark of the mags. I made a small copper strip out of 12 gauge wire on the switch. It should work well now.
2011-09-07 Cross brace I finally got the nerve to rivet the cross brace on.
2011-09-09 Install carb cables I cut and installed the two carb cables - throttle and mixture control. The mixture lever hits the air filter fresh air housing.
2011-09-10 Made new mixture lever for injector. The supplied mixture lever did not line up with the mixture cable as it comes through the intake air horn, so I decided to make a new one. I started with some 6061-T6 1/2x1 inch flat bar. It took a lot of time, but turned out well.
2011-09-11 Modify the air filter fresh air housing - again. I had to modify the top front of the air filter housing I made. The mixture lever was hitting it. It took some time, but it's looking good and clears the lever. Now I have to modify the bottom of the housing so it clears the cowl hinge.
2011-09-12 Mount fresh air can to carb At long last it is time to actually mount the filter can. I got it lined up and drilled the hole in the carb air horn.
2011-09-13 Fresh air intake finish work I took the lower can to the body shop and had some seam sealer put on to dress up the area around the intake pipe. It looks pretty good, and it should for $20 worth of sealer!
2011-09-14 Mount fresh air can to carb - nearly final! All that is left is to remove it one more time and put in some longer air filter bolts. The original four do not stick out far enough to show threads past the lock nuts. I also made a little doodad to protect the upholstery from the rear end of the throttle cable.
2011-09-16 Under Fuel Tank I started working on the rat's nest of wires under the fuel tank. I will identify and mark each one.
2011-09-18 More panel wiring Will all the senders there are quite a few wires to identify.
2011-09-19 Under fuel tank wiring It is slow work, but I'm getting the wires all identified, marked, and extended to where the panel will be.
2011-09-21 More panel wiring under the fuel tank I got all the CHT and EGT senders wired, as well as the OT and OP, Amps and Volts. I hope to start installing the glare shield and fuel tank tomorrow.
2011-09-22 Install Fuel Tank What a female canine! With Yuhua's help I finally got the fuel tank straps bolted to the longerons. I still have to bolt them together, and will use stainless steel redi-bolt for that. If you put the proper size AN bolt in, you can't get the two straps together. If you use an AN bolt that allows you to get the straps together, there isn't enough thread on the bolt!
2011-09-24 Install fuel tank straps What a bitch! I finally got the straps together under the tank by using some stainless steel all-thread. I welded a wing on one end of the rod, and used a nylon insert lock nut and washer on the other. I was ready for the chiropractor after the gymnastics required to get at those bolts, but he won't be in until Wednesday.
2011-09-24 Special socket for fuel tank strap tightening I turned down the outside of a 3/8 inch 1/4 inch drive socket, and brazed it into a chunk of steel tubing. Then I brazed a 1/4 drive socket in the other end. It is about 3 1/2 inches deep, and thin enough to turn the nut on the fuel tank straps. The sockets were some old junk that was made in Japan in the '50's, so no loss there.
2011-09-24 Install glare shield I finally put the glare shield in with rivets. It was a tight fit - strange how everything works so well until you get serious about it. I also cut the blue glare shield cover, and installed the GPS pickup unit on the front of the glare shield. I started putting the windshield on, which I've done numerous times. This time the left side is about half a hole off - too far forward. I think I'll have to make the holes oblong to get the screws through.
2011-09-26 Begin cutting canopy to size Today was the day! I finally cut the canopy. I used the Harbor Freight Multifunction Power Tool - which is a vibrating saw. It turns out that cutting the canopy is not that big of deal. I cut the rear first, then sanded with 80-120-180 grit. It took two cuts to get the rear to fit somewhat, then I moved to the front. I cut it four or five times, sanding after each cut. The front and rear fit well, but of course they will move once I cut the sides. Yuhua has been a tremendous help each time I needed to move the canopy.
2011-09-27 More canopy installation work I got the rear, front, and right side cut and sanded to size, and four clecos in the canopy hinge. Also got the left side close enough I am ready to drill tomorrow. I will start on the right side and work my way to the left.
2011-09-28 Finish Drilling Canopy Ever so carefully, finish drilling the canopy rivet holes. No cracks yet.
2011-09-29 Paint Canopy frame, begin installation of canopy I took it all apart and primed and painted the canopy frame - flat black. Late in the day I put the frame back on the fuselage and began installing the canopy. It's actually going quite well.
2011-09-30 Finish Canopy! I finally finished installing the canopy. No cracks! It wasn't nearly as bad as I'd been led to believe, just a lot of trimming and a whole lot of sanding. I'd rather do another canopy than the cowl, which of course does not fit now that I have the windshield and canopy on.
2011-09-30 Prepare for Wings and Wheels With the canopy on, the cowl mostly on (the left rear hinge is short about a quarter on an inch) I hung the prop, installed the panel, and put the seat and cushions in. Tomorrow I'll haul the fuselage to Pangborn Field for the annual Wings and Wheels. It will be a show and tell. I sure hope the weather is decent - it's been one of everything so far today.
2011-10-03 Wiring at panel Many tiny wires - tiny switches.
2011-10-05 Install carpeting on glare shield I cut and installed blue outdoor golf range carpet on the glare shield. That includes cutouts for the GPS sender and the compass.
2011-10-06 Canopy front restraint I built some brackets to hold a blue strap that will keep the front of the canopy from going away in a wind.
2011-10-07 More panel wiring Lots of tiny wires that need to be soldered in tiny places.
2011-10-08 More panel wiring It is taking forever to wire the panel, but I don't want to screw it up.
2011-10-10 More panel wiring What is there to say? It is taking a long time to wire the panel.
2011-10-21 Wire ELT Antenna Finally got the ELT antenna in place and the RG-400 cable installed.
2011-10-25 Rear fuselage wiring - tail light and ELT antenna I ran the wires along the lower right side of the fuselage. They are all tied together and clamped in place, with bushings where they go through the supports.
2011-10-30 Wire supports for radio antenna wire I made supports for the RG400 cable from the radio antenna to under the seat. Also installed bushings where it goes through the upper cross support.
2011-11-04 Run radio wires and telephone cable for ELT buzzer No one told me that wiring would be so labor intensive! It is happening, but slowly.
2011-11-09 Built a support for Headphone plugs I built a small triangle that goes at the center top rear of the cabin. This will support the six plugs required for two headphones.
2011-11-14 Wire TT-21 Transponder to panel I have not been clocking in when wiring. It is taking far longer than I ever dreamed. I did finish running the wires from the under-seat TT-21 transponder to the TC-21 control unit in the panel. I've found the best way for me to do it is one wire at a time. I've been labeling the wires with typed paper and clear 4:1 heat shrink.
2011-11-16 Support CHT wires near engine I built some supports for the CHT wires to keep them from flopping all around.
2011-11-16 Modified Fresh Air intake box I modified the box so the fuel line would not have a high spot where it crosses the box on the left rear.
2011-11-18 Transponder panel wiring I wired the D-Sub plug for the transponder.
2011-11-22 Changed all wire supports Had the EAA chapter meeting here on the 21st. Got some excellent advice on separating wires that run near anything shielded. Also the spotted some things I'd not finished. The new supports use zip-ties that go around two or more parallel wires, and than have a zip tie around that zip tie to separate each wire from the other.
2011-11-25 More wiring at the panel I am running each wire to its intended terminals. That works best for me. The panel looks like an upturned bowl of angel hair spaggetti, but I think it is safe and functional.
2011-11-26 EFIS D-Sub The EFIS D-sub is a 37-pin model, but most of the terminals are not used. Those that are used have wires already on them. All I've had to do figure out where they go and route them there. Yuhua (my wife) came in the shop when I was trying to braid 6 - 22 gauge wires together. She saw the mess I was making, took over, and did a beautiful job. No easy task as the wires were about 8 feet long.
2011-11-29 Strobe and Land Light Switches I used an old universal headlight switch for the landing lights. First notch is for ground light, all the way out (second notch) will turn them both on. There are also indicator LED's to show which ones are one. The strobes use a double throw triple pole mini-switch. Down will turn on the belly strobe and lower indicator LED, up will turn on both the belly and wing strobes, and both indicator LED's. I used some itty-bitty diodes in this mess too, to keep the power from bleeding backwards though the LED's. Probably a bit of overkill, but maybe that's what I should name the airplane: "Overkill."
2011-12-01 Connect EFIS AHRS Wires I had to cut the 6 wires connecting the EFIS to the sender in the back of the fuselage to both shorten and route them. I connected them together under the seat.
2011-12-01 Connect and install Pitot, Braid wires At long last I installed the pitot with its connected tubes. I hope I don't have to remove it, but it is screwed on so it won't be a big deal if I have to do that. I had Yuhua braid the 4 wires from the landing light and nav/tail/strobe. She does it well, far better and faster than I do, and likes to help when asked.
2011-12-01 Installed D-Sub cover on radio wires I had to order a 15-pin D-Sub cover from Mouser - I guess I never did get one in the other orders. One of the 4-40 screws was missing, and it turned out NOT to be a 4-40, as I found when I tried to use the black nut furnished with a 4-40 screw from another cover. That's why it took half an hour to put one little cover on the D-Sub.
2011-12-01 Change Belly Strobe wiring I didn't like the automotive spade connectors I'd put on long ago, so I changed them over to Tyco type from Mouser. It is wired so the both the light and strobe go on and off with the same switch.
2011-12-03 Wiring wings I finished wiring both wings. The left landing light is the lower beam, right side shines straight out. I also began wiring the connector behind the panel. This is a 6-wire that will conduct all landing, navigation, tail, and strobe lights. The next step is connectors down stream of that one. They will connect each wing into the panel switches.
2011-12-12 Prepare Panel for Installation I thought the panel was ready to install, but discovered I'd not plumbed the pitot and static hoses. Also, can't find the 90 degree 1/4 inch hose to 1/8 inch pipe thread connectors, so ordered them.
2011-12-14 Install rear baffle seal I finally got around to installing the new style red neoprene baffle seal. Just on the sides and rear so far, more to come.
2011-12-14 Fuel Flow Test - 36 GPH I put one gallon of 92 octane non-alchohol mo-gas in the tank, and ran about half of it out on the floor. I thought I'd shut off the main valve. Not. I put in one gallon of the same fuel, and timed it as it ran into a jug. One minute, forty seconds to run one gallon of fuel through from the tank through the gascolator and lines to the AeroCarb inlet. That figures out to 36 gallons per hour, about 8 times the max this engine can use. The hour time includes cleaning up the mess on the shop floor.
2011-12-18 Installl Panel Finally, I installed the panel and fuel gauge hose. It's a tight fit, and I still have to remove the D-Sub connector at the EFIS and move the static hose above it, as the hose as it is dangles near the flap handle.
2011-12-22 Try to install right cowl Tried to install the right cowl. NOT! The cowl baffle seal prevents it from going into place. Worked on left cowl, which is a bit friendlier.
2011-12-26 Left cowl installation I had to do some modification to the area around the fuel tank vent standpipe, and put a small notch in the fuel door, but I got the left cowl on. I have decided to use screws and nut plates instead of those damnable Southco Fastners.
2011-12-26 Remove panel for modification I hooked up the battery for the first time. No mushroom clouds! Most things work, but the belly strobe does not come on when I move the switch to the upper position, which is supposed to turn on both wings strobes and the belly strobe. I think I'll have to join the two wires with a diode. Also, the voltmeter pegs on the plus side when I turn on the gauges switch. I don't know what's wrong there. The oil pressure and temp gauges go to the bottom when I turn on that switch too.
2011-12-29 Final (?) wiring of panel I added the wires for the hour meter switch, which had go to the engine. I twisted (in the approved manner) a blue and purple 22 gauge wire for it. I also cleaned up the wires, tying them in place better. I also labeled the connectors on the EGT and CHT gauges. All this should make it easier to put the panel back in. I also touched up the wrinkle paint that was messed up at the lower right corner.
2011-12-30 Build filler neck fuel seal I built an aluminum seal that surrounds the filler neck and goes to the wall of the filler area. It will prevent any spilled gasoline from going into the cabin area. There will be a 3/16 tube that drains any spillage into the bottom of the crankcase breather tube.
2011-12-31 Finish filler neck seal and drain The aluminum is in place, sealed with clear silicone. The 3/16 tube drains out of the left side, and ends in the bottom of the crankcase ventilation tube that comes down from the breather overflow can.
2012-01-01 Move ELT from under seat I decided the ELT should be easily accessible so I moved it from under the seat, and am making a shelf that will be behind the right shoulder of the passenger.
2012-01-03 Rewire ELT Moving the ELT meant re-routing the antenna and panel control wires. Since they were already inside heat shrink, it's not easy. I borrowed another crimper from Bill Hungleman and did the wires. The panel light kept blinking, so I called ACT. Mike told me to reverse the direction of one end of the telephone wire end I'd put on. I did, and all is well.
2012-01-07 Front baffle seal replacement I took off the 1/8 x 2 inch red seal and replaced it with 3/32 x 3 inch seal. It is much softer, and should collapse easier to help the cowl go into place easier.
2012-01-09 Install shielded "P" Leads Built and began installing shielded "P" leads. The old leads are already in a super-tight bundle, so I'll have to re-route the new 3/22 shielded wire.
2012-01-10 Finish installing new I had to bore a new hole in the firewall for the new "P" leads. Routing it under the fuel tank was a hell of a job - I need a midget.
2012-01-12 Re-re-re-re-re-install cowl It takes about 2 hours to get the cowl on, and it still does not fit properly. What a bitch! The new thinner baffle seals on front helped, but it still won't close up right below the propeller. I also have to countersink the two front fresh air can bolts on the air filter. If this cowl were not already painted I'd be mighty tempted to cut it horizontally.
2012-02-05 At last, it fits. Mostly I stopped counting the hours I worked on the making the cowl fit. More than 50, I'm sure. Had it not been already painted I'm sure I would have embarked upon some drastic reshaping, with a hammer, no doubt. What a bitch! Now, with the prop in place, I can put the two halves on in less than half an hour. The side and bottom pins still don't go all the way in, but I will likely shorten them. I changed all the Southco Fasteners to nut plates and 10-32 flat head screws with countersink washers. The cowl, without a doubt, has been the most difficult part of the build, by several times.
2012-02-23 First oil flush I removed the lower spark plugs and added 3 quarts of Lubriplate HDS-20 oil to the engine. This is oil I bought in the early '70's, and it has a very high Zinc content - just what the doctor ordered for initial break in. I ran the starter 10 seconds - no oil pressure. I ran it another 10 seconds - no oil pressure. I ran it another 10 seconds, still no pressure. I loosened the outlet hose from the oil pump to the oil cooler, and there was oil there. So, I ran the starter another 10 seconds, and got 32 pounds of oil pressure! I did that another 3 times and then drained the oil out, as per AeroVee instructions. Only about 2 1/2 quarts of oil drained, so the rest must be still be in the oil cooler.
2012-03-03 Upsize screw holes, install snubber strap I removed each screw in the windshield and canopy and drilled the hole out to 3/16 using the Unibit. I also riveted and installed the snubber strap on the front of the canopy. I have heard of canopies being blown off or broken when opened in a wind, and my hope is the strap will prevent that. I test-sat the cockpit - the canopy hits my head without my headset! I may have the seat cushion made thinner. I don't want to install the lowered seat option - the requires a single stick and waaaaaay too much work.
2012-03-07 First Start! At 1:10 p.m. today, March 7th, 2012, I tied the plane to a tree and started it. It took about 30 seconds for the fuel to make it through the system, and it took off, wide open. Oil pressure was more than 40 pounds per square inch, and I ran it about a minute and a half until the CHTs got high. Left front was 250,left rear 350, right front 420, and right rear 420 when I shut it down. The alternator works well, but the tachometer pegs at 3500 no matter what the engine RPM. It runs a bit faster on mag only, but without the tachometer I don't know what the drop is with both mags. It feels mighty good to hear it run!
2012-03-10 Oil Leak! I reset the timing and cut the loop on the tachometer. The tach reads well now, and I got 3100 RPM static WOT. When I shut it down, there was oil - a leak at the flywheel end of the engine. Damn! Next step: take the engine off, remove the flywheel, find out what the problem is, and fix it.
2012-03-14 Major Problem Once the airplane was back in the shop, I notice a significant amount of oil on the fresh air can. It appeared to be coming from the rear of the engine, so I pulled the engine (6 hours.) I removed the flywheel and found oil on the top part of the block - the cam, rear seal, and case were dry. Today I tore the engine down. I have contacted Kerry at Sonex and sent him photos of the crack and of the stud that was in that hole. He will forward the information to John Monnett. I am hoping they do the right thing and give me another case. This is quite a setback.
2012-03-14 Major Problem Once the airplane was back in the shop, I notice a significant amount of oil on the fresh air can. It appeared to be coming from the rear of the engine, so I pulled the engine (6 hours.) I removed the flywheel and found oil on the top part of the block - the cam, rear seal, and case were dry. Today I tore the engine down. I have contacted Kerry at Sonex and sent him photos of the crack and of the stud that was in that hole. He will forward the information to John Monnett. I am hoping they do the right thing and give me another case. This is quite a setback.
2012-03-16 Disassemble Engine I have it completely apart, and can not find any place that looks like a leak. I put BrakeClean in the hole of the right rear top stud, and it does not leak out. Oh where oh where is that darned leak???
2012-03-19 Zyglo test I took the block halves to Chelan to Lake Aero where Will Mutter did a dye check. No matter how hard we tried, we could not find any cracks. Back to square minus 1.
2012-08-15 Engine tear down and seal The Aerovee has been giving me fits. It runs great, but after the first start it had an oil leak at the rear. I tore it down and thought it had a cracked case. After a lot of head scratching, I discovered I had installed the cam plug backwards. I re-assembled it, and it ran great, but had an oil leak at the parting seam on front. I tore it down again, and this time used Permatex #3. It sealed well, but had a miss on one cylinder on electronic ignition. I traced that to a bad wire, and at long last it is finished. It turns 3200 RPM Wide Open Throttle, tied to a fruit tree.
2012-09-20 Final fit of cowl The cowl had been quite a project, or at least getting it to fit. I finally flattened some hinge pin, ground it like a drill bit, and ran it through a few times with a drill. At last I can put the side pins all the way. The top and bottom pins are okay, but the bottom center pin is still a bit sticky.
2012-09-28 It is ready for inspection! At long last, everything is in place. I will call Stan Franz at Cub Crafters, 509-248-1025, to schedule an airworthiness inspection.