Foam "hinged ready for 5 min. epoxy
sometimes you have to add weigtht to get it to lay flat

hinge method of joing foam blocks
put your blocks of foam together tape the joint on oneside tape on both sides of the joint on the other side. Lift up and use a plastic sheet to mix your 5 minute with a bit of flox scruntch the bag up poke a hole in it and use it like decorating a cake. to put a small bead of 5 minute epoxy the entire length of the joint. Then just lay the foam sheets down and let cure after wiping off the extra epoxy. Walla a really nice joint. I would like to give Wayne Hicks credit for this Idea.

dishing out foam without a router
In Chapter 5 You are supposed to dish out the pvc foam for clearance for the control stick. I do not have a router and pvc foam is not easy to sand by hand. So what I did was cut clear through the foam took the slug out marking its orientation then took it over to my surface grinder with a really rough wheel. Then by hand ran it back and forth under the wheel bringing the wheel down about .o50" at a time. It flattend out the foam really nice just cleaned up what was left over with a sanding block. I will have to take a couple of pictures.

Matching screw heads to straite edge
Foam blocks curing ready to take screws out.

Shimming the bottom of the fuselage
I found out after I built the instrument panel that most builders found it to be a bout 1/4" short on the bottom when they went to asemble the bottom of the fuselage. This is what I did to keep the bottom flat while I was jigging it up.
I took a straite edge and screwed in some drywall screws down into the different bulkheads that wer a bit to low. I raised them up until the straite edge just barely touch them. Then I put my foam on and drew out the shape of the bottom. Then I floxed some small foam pieces next to each screw. When the flox cures I will sand the foam pieces down to match the screw heads. Then I will take the screws out and flox the fuselage to the shims after the flox cures I will fill the slot with more foam pieces and then flox and tape the fuselage to the bottom.

Laying out a 31" X 8" strip to do the 60" bid tapes for the turtle back bulkhead
Layout lines before wetting out the glass and cutting.

Making tapes for bulkhead installation
I have found a good way to make the 2 inch tapes that are used so many places in the cozy plans to mainly attatch bulkheads and other added later pieces. I cut up several 8" 45* bias cut bid fiberglass. Most bulkheads you have to tape both sides so this makes 4" of tapes If the tapes are over 24" wich most of them are I only make half so that is why I use 8" tapes I lay out two layers after I have layed out the dimensions on a piece of tin foil. Then after wetting out the glass I use my dritz scissors to cut down each line wich it does very nicely. I forgot to take pictures of the glass and the cutting will have to do it another time.

using small squares as cutting fixtures.

cutting foam cores
I found a really quick way to make quick square cuts out of the wing foam. I took two small squares and drilled holes in them I draw a straite line across the foam and put the squares on the table and line them up with the line. I put 3 screws in and walla they are ready for a squared off cut.

quickie drill guide. and it works

drill jig
A quicky idea for making a drill jig for when you want a straite hole for your spar to wing attatch is to go to your drill press and drill a straite hole through a flat block of whatever you have. Wood would work but will wallow out pretty fast I used a piece of aluminum and drilled it in the lathe. It made really nice straite holes.

small square used for sqaring and cutting foam

quickly squaring up foam blocks
I bought some small squares and drilled holes in them so when I needed to do any cut off or square up work on the foam cores I just laid the foam on the table and then put a mark on the foam where the cut line needed to be I then squared the line off the table and screwed the square to the block very simpl and very fast.

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