|2011-01-04||Making parts Horizon tail||Manifactoring parts T04-01
|2011-01-05||Making parts Horizon tail||Drawing T04
|2011-01-06||Making parts Horizon tail||Drawing T04 Horizontal Tail|
|2011-01-07||Making parts Vertical Stabilizer||Start making parts Drawing T10
|2011-01-08||Making parts Vertical Stabilizer||Made parts T12-03, T12-08 and T12-09
|2011-01-10||Making parts Vertical Stabilizer||Made part T12-06, T12-10 and T12-04.
De-burred and cleaned part T12-01, T12-02 and T12-07.
Marked T12-07 for bending
|2011-01-11||Making parts Vertical Stabilizer||Bended and cleaned T12-03 and T12-07
Bended parts in vice using a wooden V block and round 1" stainless steel bar
|2011-01-12||Assembled Vertical Stabilizer||Made clip for Rudder Drive Horn.
Clecoed Rudder Drive Horn and Forward Spar. De-burred, cleaned, de-greased and spray painted parts with Zinc Chromate.
Try to spray only a very thin layer on it.
|2011-01-13||Main Spar Assemble||Riveted Rubber Drive Horn.
Start Main Spar Assemble.
|2011-01-14||Main Spar Assemble||Continue Main spare Assemble.
|2011-01-15||Main and Forward Spar Assemble||De-burred and cleaned Main Spar and Forwards Spar assemble parts.
Zinc Chromate and riveted Assemble.
Drawing T09 Finished
|2011-01-17||Rudder Assemble||Drilled pilot holes in Skin. Clecoed Rudder Assemble.
|2011-01-18||De-burring||De-burred Rudder parts
|2011-01-21||Assembled Rudder||De-burred, cleaned, Zinc Chromate and riveted Rudder.
|2011-01-22||Frame Assemble||Laid out and clecoed Vertical Stabilizer frame.
|2011-01-24||Riveted Frame||Remade Rib T10-03
While T10-03 was clamped into frame it moved during pilot holes drilling.
De-burred, cleaned, Zinc Chromated and Riveted Vertical stabilizer frame
|2011-01-25||Skin on frame||Clamp Main spar with skin on the edge of work table.
Start putting skin around frame. I put wooden beam with weight on it to keep skin flat with frame.
|2011-01-26||Difficulties with Fiberglas Tip||Aligned marked lines on frame channel with pre-drilled pilot holes on skin. Drilled pilot holes in frame and clecoed.
Did not drill top rib until I fitted the Fibreglass tip.
Lots of trouble with fibreglass tip.
After filing and sanding the inside of the tip I got it fitted.
Pilot drilled top rib and clecoed. Re-drilled and re-clecoed with #30.
Disassemble vertical Stabilizer for de-burring.
Four holes in top rib leading edge are and too much on the inside of the Rib while two holes in the lower leading edge rib are to close near the edge.
I most have push frame out alignment while trying getting the Fibreglass tip in.
Emailed Sonex about this problem and awaiting reply
|2011-01-27||Parts Horizontal Stabilizer||De-burred Vertical Stabilizer Skin and Frame.
Sanded and polished with scotch bright the Main Spar and the Forward Spar parts.
Start making one T03-04 (Main channel)
|2011-01-28||Clecoed Main Spare||Finished one T03-04
Start Horizontal Tail Main Spar Assemble
Drilled and Clecoed one part
|2011-01-29||Assembled Main Spar||Made one more T03-04
Drilled #40 and clecoed Main Spar Assemble
|2011-01-31||Drilled Main Spar to Riveting Size||Made 2 Forwards Spar channels T03-06
Drilled Main Spar Assemble holes to #30 for riveting while keeping Main Spar assembled.
Start making one Forward Root Rib mal.
|2011-02-01||Horizontal Stabilizer parts||Made 2 Forwards Root Rib Clips T06-05 and Clips T0-06
|2011-02-02||Forward Spar Assemble||Start Assemble Forwards spar.
Fitted and clecoed Forward Spar Channels, Clips and one Forward Root Clip.
Start re-making Forward Root Clip after positioning and drilled it in the wrong position.
|2011-02-03||Laid out stabiliser frame||Finished Forward Root Clip.
Made 5 angle brackets to be able to clamp Stabiliser to frame. Laid out Stabiliser Frame. Was not happy with the flatness of the work table. Spent a few hours to fix that.
Put one particle board from kit crate on top of table what is better but not ideal
|2011-02-04||De-burring||De-burred Main and Forward Spar
|2011-02-05||Riveted Main and Forward Spar||Zinc Chromate Main and Forward Spar.
Tried Solver 2 pack Self Edging Primer. Applied with brush.
Re-made Forward Spar Channel
|2011-02-07||Clecoed Frame||Laid out frame and clamped to Brackets.
#40 drilled and clecoed.
L/H side 2 mm out of square.
Main Spar is 1mm to long and Forward Spar is 1mm short.
Will fix that during de-burring
|2011-02-08||Up-drilled and Clecoed||Up-drilled #30 and Clecoed Horizontal Stabiliser Frame
|2011-02-09||Riveted frame||De-burred, cleaned and primed frame with Solver Aluminium Self edging Primer. Using cloth.
Clecoed and riveted.
|2011-02-10||Pre-fitted Fibre glass Tips||Finished riveting frame but left both leading edge root rips clecoed. Pre-fitted fibre glass tips. Cut R/H tip already to size but do L/H one later because the R/H tip cut out maybe about 5mm to much even I cut it following the plans.
Put R/H Skin on lined up with Main Spar. Drilled #40 holes and Clecoed. Turned Frame over and try to clamp with straps. This did work not so well. Decided to use weight on top of skin what works ok. Drilled #40 and Clecoed.
|2011-02-11||Finished Clecoing||Finished up-drilling both sides of Horizontal Stabiliser with #30 while Clecoing. Took Skin off and start de-burring.
I was happy with all the holes are pretty well position in the centre of the channels.
|2011-02-12||De-burr||De-burr Frame and Skins using de-burring tool, 240 grid sandpaper and polished with scotch bright.
|2011-02-14||Riveted Skin to Frame||Finished de-burring skin, cleaned for priming. Primed frame and skin's with Sover 2 pack self edging primer using brush.
Clecoed and riveted skin's to frame apart from leading end root rib's for fibreglass tips and top of main spar this will be done later with piano hinge for elevators.
|2011-02-15||Parts cutting and drilling R/H||Cut and filed R/H elevator to size.
Cut piano hinge for HS and elevators. Drilled pilot holes in elevator hinges.
|2011-02-16||Drilled pilot holes R/H skin||Drilled pilot holes R/H elevator skin.
Accidently drilled pilot holes in R/H and L/H elevator control surface rib for elevator control horn.
After emailing Kerry from Sonex he suggested to rivet a doubler over the holes.
Made up two doubler’s plates from 0.025" plate and emailed photo from the repaired elevator control surface rib to Kerry what was fine.
De-burred pilot holes on R/H skin.
|2011-02-17||R/H elevator||Pilot drilled and clecoed the two elevators control surface ribs to R/H skin. Did not fit elevator root rib to skin yet.
Drilled #30 and clecoed piana hinge to skin.
Start de-burring skin,hinge and ribs.
|2011-02-18||Riveted R/H elevator||Finished de-burring and cleaned all R/H elevator parts for priming (not root rib). Sprayed Zinc Chromate primer on the inside skin and rib's.
Clecoed and riveted R/H elevator.
Fitted R/H elevator to HS hinge. Partly drilled and clecoed hinge to HS and clecoed.
Start fitting fibre glass tip to R/H HS.
|2011-02-19||Fitted R/H Fibreglass tip||Fitted and marked holes skin to tip. Pre-drilled holes in tip and lined up as much as possible with leading edge root rib line.
Keep 3.2mm space between elevator and fibreglass tip.
Drilled and clecoed first with #40 when all looks ok drilled #30 holes and clecoed. Drilled all holes #40 for hinge and clecoed.
|2011-02-20||Riveted R/H fibreglass tip and elevator hinge||De-burred, cleaned and primed with Solver self edging primer hinge and all parts for fibreglas tip.
Re-clecoed and riveted all parts together
|2011-02-21||L/H Elevator||Cut skin but left 3 a 4mm for later.
Drilled pilot holes in skin. Fitted elevator control surface rib's to skin, pilot drilled and clecoed.
Fitted piano hinge to L/H elevator, drilled pilot holes through skin on clecoed hinge to L/H elevator.
When all looks ok up-drilled all holes #30 and clecoed. Left inner part for elevator control horn for later.
|2011-02-22||L/H elevator riveted||De-burred and spray primed with Zinc chromate primer L/H elevator skin, 2 control surface ribs and piano hinge. Re-clecoed and riveted the 2 control surfaces and piano hinge to skin. Start fitting L/H elevator L/H H.S. Drilled and clecoed elevator root ribs (L/H and R/H) to elevator control drive horn. Fitted this assemble to both R/H and L/H elevators while it was connected to H.S. Marked and filed L/H elevator skin to size. Still have to file some off the R/H skin
|2011-02-23||H.S. and L/H elevator||Up-drilled elevator drive horn. De-burred and touched up all holes and paint damage on drive horn with corrosion protective black primer. De-burred and cleaned elevator root ribs. Re-made hinge for L/H H.S. due to left to much space between rib for fibreglass tip rib and L/H elevator. Marked, drilled, clecoed, up-drilled de-burred and riveted. Spray painted with zinc chromate and riveted to the drive horn.
Start working on the L/H fibreglass tip.
|2011-02-25||L/H H.S. Fibreglass tip and Elevator||Fitted fibreglass tip to L/H H.S. Not an easy job and have to take tip and end rib off several times to fit it. Very fiddly. Joggle on rib for fibreglass tip was only 2mm. Re-worked and made it about 3.5mm. Lined up fibreglass tip with elevator and marked the tip. Drilled pilot holes in fibreglass tip. Drilled pilot holes from skin into end rib with some fibreglass tip off cup between skin and end rib. Lined fibreglass tip up with holes in skin and end rib, clecoed and up-drilled #30. Drilled and clecoed rib for fibreglass tip making sure gap between L/H elevator and rib is at least 3.2mm. Fitted elevator control horn to R/H and L/H elevator. Marked L/H elevator for correct position. Drilled pilot holes L/H elevator skin to control horn. Clecoed up-drilled #30 and de-burred. Marked the correct position while both elevators are hinged on the H.S. of the R/H elevator to drive horn assemble. Drilled clecoed and up-drilled #30 and clecoed. All looks good and happy so far
|2011-02-26||Finished riveting H.S. and Elevators||De-burred drive horn, both sides’ elevator root ribs, H.S L/H end rib and fibreglass tip rib.
Re-clecoed all these parts and riveted.
To fit the fibreglass tip went better than with the Vertical stabiliser. I did not rivet the end rib; I made the end rib to fit inside the fibreglass tip first before riveting.
I noticed after it was all finished that there is a few mm different between the left and right tip when level with the elevators. I don't think this is much of a problem
Start polishing bottom R/H side of the H.S with F9 Nuvite
|2011-02-28||Polishing||Polishing with F9 grade Nuvite.
Tried to find the best way to polish. Use what was suggested with the polishing information what came with the kit and the video lectures on the Sonex website.
I am using a cheap polisher without variable speed with sheep wool patches what does not work very well with the F9.
It works not to bad with towelling material. My wife made up a few of these patches.
Polishing is messy and time consuming but it is worth it
|2011-03-01||Finished H.S and Elevators||Did some more polishing, tried also the C and S grade.
Decided to do the S grade later.
The H.S and elevators are finished.
|2011-03-02||Re-made leading edge rib and tip rib||Re-made leading edge rib and tip rib. Clecoed made parts to frame and skin. Leading edge rib is ok but clip for this rib have to be re-made
|2011-03-03||Made clip and clecoed skin to frame.||Made clip for leading edge rib. Drilled holes in new parts and Clecoed skin, top rib and leading edge rib to frame, fitted fibreglass tip.
Checked if all is ok. Taken all cleco's out and de-burred all parts with has not been de-burred before. Cleaned frame and skin.
|2011-03-04||Finished the tail||Primed frame and skin with Solver self edging primer with brush.
Clecoed and riveted the vertical stabiliser.
Finished Tail only have to polish the V.S and Rudder
|2011-03-05||Start Fuselage.||Start fabricating parts F27-01R and 01L
|2011-03-07||Finished F27-01R/L||Finished Part F27-01R/L. Cut material for all other channels on drawing F27.
|2011-03-08||F27 parts||Continue working on F27 parts. Cut all 6.3x20.6mm clearance areas out.
|2011-03-09||Drawing F27 parts||Cut and filed F27-02L/R, 03L/R, 04L/R and 05L/R
|2011-03-10||Aft fuselage F27 parts||Marked, drilled and de-burred F27-02L/R, 03L/R and 04l/R
Made one complete Fairlead mount block F27-10 made to try it out. After cutting it with the bend saw I used the Belt sander to make it square and to the right dimensions.
I cut the 3/4" hole with a normal metal 3/4" drill but pilot drilled it first with 1/8" and 5/16" drills. The drill press speed was set for 340rpm. I clamped it in the drill press clamping vice and during drilling I released it a few times to get the drill a change to cool down. This works very well. Tomorrow I will do the rest of them. Assembled in F27-09.
|2011-03-11||Finished all parts drawing F27||Finished parts drawing F27.
Start with drawing F26. Cleaned laser cut parts, updrilled holes parts F26-05L/R, filed chamber and bend angle following drawing.
Start cleaning F26-04R/L and F26-06R/L
|2011-03-26||Polishing||Bought new Polisher/disk grinder
Polished one side of Vertical Stabilizer with Nuvite F9
|2011-03-27||Finished Polishing||Finished polishing with F9 the Vertical Stabiliser.
Not an easy job but it goes better with the new Polishing/Grinder tool. I washed the pad when I finished for the day what helps to.
|2011-03-28||Polished rudder and start with Fuselage||Finished polishing the Rudder with Nuvite F9.
Work on drawing F26 parts. Cleaned, filed chamber and scotchbrite parts 04, 06 and 07 left and right hand sides.
Cur material for 03 L/R.
|2011-03-29||Made Longerons||Cut and filed F26-03L/R and 02L/R 1"x1" longerons angle line to length
|2011-03-30||Cut hole and slot||Cut slot in both aft side skin F26-01R/L
I mistakenly cut the slot in the R/H aft side skin F26-01R 4.75mm to high. (I thought measurement were from the centre of the slot. contacted Sonex about it but because this is only a clearance slot it would not be a problem at all. Cut 4" inspection holes in both aft side skins.
Still have to make the rudder stops and can use the 1"x 1/8" strip instead of the 1/8" plate what was ask for on the drawing.
The drawing says 26mm instead of 25.4mm.
|2011-03-31||Clecoed longerons to L/H skin||Bend 14 degrees angle on the front of the L/H aft side skin.
Also bent the 5.3 degrees angle F26-05 L/R spice plate what I forgot to bent earlier
Fitted L/H upper and lower longerons to the L/H aft side skin, pilot holes drilled and clecoed.
|2011-04-01||Fitted stiffeners to L/H aft side skin||Continue working on L/H fuselage aft side panel. Fitted all stiffeners to L/H aft side skin. Drilled pilot holes and clecoed.
|2011-04-02||Fitted split plate L/H aft side panel||Fitted, drilled and clecoed top and bottom L/H split plates to aft side panel. Have to bend the 13.5 degree angle to the bottom split plate what I forgot earlier
|2011-04-04||Finished L/H Aft Fuselage side panel||Made 2 rudder stops (drawing F26-08) and fitted one stop to L/H Aft Fuselage side panel.
Finished L/H Aft Fuselage side panel to drawing F25 but do de-burring, cleaning, priming and riveting later. Start R/H Aft Fuselage side panel. Bend the 14 degree angle on skin. Fitted and clecoed Longerons, R/H rudder stop and almost all R/H vertical stiffeners channels apart from R/H vertical tee to skin.
|2011-04-05||Finished R/H Aft Fuselage side panel||Finished apart from de-burring, cleaning, priming and riveting R/H Aft Fuselage side panel. All holes up-drilled following drawing F25.
Start making Cross Channel drawing F24-02 upper Cross Ties #2
|2011-04-06||Making Cross Channels||Continue making Cross Channels following drawing F24
|2011-04-07||Cross Channels drawing F24||Finished all Cross Channels drawing F24 and start making Forwards Channels
|2011-04-08||Start Cross Tie Box||Finished Forwards and Aft Channels drawing F24. De-burred holes and edges of Upper and Lower Web. Start constructing Cross Tie Box
|2011-04-09||Finished Cross Box Channel||During construction of Cross Box Channel I spend a lot of time to keep the Box square during pilot drilling and up-drilling. Also I de-burred between drilling each side of the box.
Finished Cross Box Channel apart from cleaning, priming and riveting.
|2011-04-11||Clecoed R/H and L/H Mount assemble||Made L/H and R/H angles F23-07R/L. bend 2 fitting F23-08. De-burred two webs F23-06. Assembled, clecoed, up-drilled but not riveted yet (F23-05 R/L. Made 2 clips F23-12. Made Forward and Aft support channels. Decided to do the Forwards and Aft Push Rod support assemble later. Start manufacturing Bulkhead F23-02.
|2011-04-12||Bulkhead Aft Fuselage||Partly finished Bulkhead. Need 14/16" and 1 ½” Hole saws to finished. I ordered hole set kit from EBay.
Made Forwards Angle F22-06. Later I discover it was included in the kit.
|2011-04-13||Made Forward and Aft Support Channels||Made angle F22-04, Forward and Aft Supports channels F23-10 and F23-13
|2011-04-14||Primed and riveted Cross Tie Box||Brought a spray tin of Wattle Aluminium Edging primer from Bunning’s to try out. This primer works very well and is bounding to the metal much better than any of the other previously used primers.
De-burred, cleaned Cross Tie Box F24-01 and the L/H and R/H Aft Shear Web assembly. Primed and riveted both following the drawings.
|2011-04-15||Finished Bulkhead||Drilled two 1 1/2” Holes and filled out slot in bulkhead F23-02.
Filled out 1" holes to 1 1/8" on Forwards and Aft support channel F23-10 and F23-13. Fitted the 1 1/8" x 7/8" snap plastic bushes on the Forward and Aft Rod Support Assembly.
Checked Drawing revision and updated drawings.
Start test assembly Aft fuselage
|2011-04-17||Test assembly Tail Cone Box||Test assembly Aft Fuselage Tail Cone Box drawing F21. The 40" or 1016 mm wide measurement of the fuselage is with the Cross Tie Box fitted 4 mm to wide. Cut 2 mm of each side of the Cross Tie Box around were the Box was sitting against the Upper Splice Plates. Checked the Fuselage 1016 wide measurement what is correct now. Checked if the bottom skin fits on the test assembly ok. I decided to take it all apart and finished the Aft Fuselage side panels following drawing F25.
De-burred, scotchbrighted and cleaned the L/H panel for priming and riveted.
|2011-05-02||Polished R/H skin||De-burred R/H Aft Fuselage side panel skin cleaned and primed joining surfaces what is going to be riveted later. Polished R/H Aft fuselage skin with F9 polisher
|2011-05-03||Riveted R/H Aft Fuselage Side Panel||Filled out the 6 holes in the stiffeners from 19 to 22mm for the 22mm plastic snap bushes on the R/H stiffeners.
The wrong size bushes where supplied to me. After I email Kerry from Sonex he approved to use them.
Assembled and riveted the R/H Aft Fuselage Side Panels following the SNX-F25
Drilled holes for AN525-10R12 bolds in the F26-07R R/H Upper Vertical Splice Plate. Installed as detail P on SNX-F25
|2011-05-04||Polished L/H Aft Fuselage Side Panel Skin||Enlarged snap bushes hole from 19 to 22mm same as I did on the R/H stiffeners.
Drilled holes in the L/H Aft Fuselage side panel for the AN525-10R12 to fit F26-07 upper vertical splice plate to side panel fitted as per drawing F25 detail P
Start polishing L/H side panel skin with F9
|2011-05-06||Finished Polishing L/H Aft Fuselage Side Panel||Finished Polishing L/H Aft Fuselage Side Panel with F9
Made parts F20-07 Skin Splice Channel, and F20-12 Aft Clip.
Start making F20-11 Forward Clip.
|2011-05-09||Making more parts||Finished making F20-11 Forward Clip and made 6 F20-10 Former Clips.
Start marking Splice Channel Assemble.
|2011-05-10||Assembled Turtle Deck Splice Channel||Drilled and clecoed Splice Channel. De-burred, cleaned and primed the joining surfaces with the Wattle self edging aluminium primer. Clecoed and riveted.
After I finished this I discovered that it was made the wrong way round like an mirror image. After discussing it with Greg another Sonex builder we agreed that this would not be a problem it all.
Cut the 38.1mm x 6.3mm out of both Turtle Deck Skins and de-burred. Clamp R/H side Turtle Deck Skins to Splice channel and drilled a number of pilot holes while clecoing it. Fitted both skins to Splice Channel, drilled and Clecoed all pilot holes.
Up-drilled, de-burred and start polishing L/H skin with F9
|2011-05-12||Polished the wrong side of the R/H Turtle Deck Skin||Polished both Turtle Deck Skins with F9
After I finished and cleaned the workshop I discovered that I polished the wrong side of the R/H skin
|2011-05-12||Assembled Turtle Deck Skin||Polished the correct R/H side of the Turtle Deck Skin.
Cleaned and primed the joining surfaces. Assembled Turtle Deck Skin to Splice Channel with clecoes and riveted together.
Start assemble the Aft Fuselage
|2011-05-15||Start Aft Fuselage Assemble||Clamp Lower Cross Ties #01 to 05 to the Aft Side Panels Vertical Channels. I made sure that the front of the Aft Fuselage is 1016 mm (40") and the Tail 63.5 mm.
During clamping I kept it all as square as possible. I put the clamps on the inside of the fuselage and fitted the skin on to check. This fitted very well. Also I kept the lower cross ties flash with the longerons.
Checked if it all square and measurements all ok.
Drilled all lower cross ties to vertical channels through pilot holes and clecoed. Fit and drilled lower skin to the bottom of the aft fuselage longerons and clecoed.
|2011-05-16||Continue assemble Aft Fuselage||Fitted a few Upper Cross Ties to the top of the Aft fuselage
|2011-05-19||Assemble Lower Vertical Fin Spar||Fitted F23-04 “Aft Mount Angle”. This angle was drilled slightly out of square even while I clamped it to the Lower Longerons and the Tail Wheel Mount. I also have to file and polish it on the scotch bright wheel to make this angle fit
After it was bolted and clecoed it looks all ok.
Clamped, drilled pilot holes and clecoed the F23-03 Lower Mount Angle.
|2011-05-20||Continue working rear of the Aft Fuselage||Continue working on the bottom part of the Aft Fuselage
|2011-05-21||Continue rear Aft Fuselage||Continue drilling and fitting the F23-03 "Lower Mount Angle to the F23-01 “Tail Wheel mount " use drill press to drill. Fitted SNX-T12-05 Angle with T09-03 Spacer for the Lowe Vertical Fin Spar. Fitted F22-02 Aft Shear Wed Assemble to Upper Longerons.
During all of this I kept the Lower Skin partly clecoed to keep everything aligned and square.
De-burred it all the time to make sure it sits all flash and square.
|2011-05-23||Fitted lower splice plates||Fitted the lower splice plates, drilled, clecoed and checked bolts to fit
|2011-05-24||Fitted Cross Tie Box assemble||Up-drilled the Upper Cross Ties #2 to 4 and the Aft Shear web assemble. Clamped, pilot, drilled and clecoed Cross Tie Box assemble to Upper Splice Plates, Longerons and Forwards Vertical Channel. Fitted the two F23-12 Clips to the Cross Tie Box assemble.
Up-drilled Upper Splice Plates to Longerons and Cross Ties Box. Fitted the 4 AN3-7A bolts (2 each side) to the Upper Splice Plates Longerons and Cross Tie Box.
|2011-05-25||Finished up-drilling bottom of the Aft Fuselage||Finished Lower Splice Plates pot spacers in. Up-drilled all pilot holes on Lower Cross Ties to Vertical Channels.
Took the whole aft Fuselage assemble of the bench. Cleaned bench turn the Aft Fuselage and put it back in the workbench.
Pilot holes the rest of the Upper Cross Ties what still needed to be done.
Fitted, pilot drilled and clecoed the Upper Cross Tie #3. Up-drilled both F23-05 Mount assemble. This was a good progressing day.
|2011-05-26||Start fitting the Turtle Deck||Up-drilled holes in the Upper Spice Plates for #30 and the AN3 bolts.
Start fitting the Turtle Deck. Fitted L/H side first between the Upper Longeron and side Panel Skin.
I supported the Turtle Deck Skin from the ceiling rafter with robes. Drilled all pilot holes on the L/H side first before fitted it on the R/H side. Fitted the Turtle Deck to the R/H side panel, drilled and clecoed. Looks all fine.
Test fitted Former #5. I was not happy with the 90 degrees edge of the Former (was much less than 90 degrees). Try to improve it by bending and forming as close I could to 90 degrees. The reason is that many builders get dimples in the skin during riveting.
Improving it was not that easy is I thought. Maybe I need still some spacers. Two holes would have been in the dimple part of the Former but I fixed that. Marked a blue line on the Former and during pilot drilling I made sure the line was visible true the Turtle Deck skin before I drilled it. Drilled and clecoed.
Made a new F20-12 Clip but now opposite from the previous one.
Accidently I made the Splice Channel opposite. This is not a problem overall.
|2011-05-27||Fitted clip to former #5||Compressor problems. Taken for warrantee repair.
Fitted, drilled and clecoed Clip F20-12 to Former and Former #5 to F22-04 Angle reference.
|2011-05-28||Start fitting Former #1 to Turtle Deck Skin||Partly fitted, pilot drilled and clecoed L/H and R/H Former #1 to Turtle Deck Skin.
To prevent a gap between inside of the Skin on the Former I have to work the 90 degrees edges.
|2011-05-29||Fitting Former #1||Continue fitting formers #1
|2011-05-30||Cracked R/H Former cracked||Fitted Upper Splice Plates, drilled and Clecoed. Fitted L/h Attach Plate, drilled pilot holes and Clecoed
Discovered that the R/H Former #1 F20-01R is cracked where it is bended joining the Turtle Deck Skin. The crack is at the bottom of the Former.
Send email to Sonex for the cost of replacement.
Fitted, drilled and clecoed the R/H F20-04R #4 Former
|2011-05-31||Fitting Formers #3L and #4L/R||Clamped, drilled pilot holes and clecoed the L/H Former #4 F20-4L. Up-drilled to riveting size Formers #4 and #5 located inside the Aft Fuselage Turtle Deck.
Clamped, drilled pilot holes and clecoed both Formers #3L/R (F20-03L/R. Up-drilled only the holes Former #3 inside Aft Fuselage.
The bolt attachment bracket for the seatbelts on the shear-web assemble are interfering with Formers #3. I took a few mm of attachment bracket and rounded the edge until it just cleared Former #3R
|2011-06-01||Fitted Formers #4||The bolt attachment bracket for the seatbelts on the shear-web assemble are interfering with Formers #3. I took a few mm of attachment bracket and rounded the edge until it just cleared Former #L.
Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed Formers F20-02L/R (#2) and them up-drilled to riveting size but only inside the Fuselage.
|2011-06-02||Up-drilling Aft Fuselage||Work Formers #4, 3 and 2 to reduce gaps between these Formers and the Turtle Deck Skin. Some places may still need some spacers to prevent dimples in Turtle Deck Skin.
Up-drilled and clecoed all holes on the outside of the Turtle Deck Skin to Formers apart from Former #1.
Drilled the holes through the side panel’s skin, Turtle Deck Skin upper Longerons and Splice Plate for the AN3 bolts and fitted the bolts.
Disassembled Turtle Deck Skin and Formers. Up-drilled and clecoed Vertical Channel #1 to box assemble. Starts disassemble the rest of the Aft Fuselage for de-burring and priming.
Only have to drill and up-drill the channel on the rear of the Aft Fuselage for the Vertical Stabiliser to the Fuselage.
Received reply from Kerrie at Sonex. They will replace the cracked Former F20-01R under Warrantee.
I inspected Former F20-01L very carefully and also had also some evidence of cracking. Made photos and send to Kerrie for examination
|2011-06-03||Start de-burring all Aft Fuselage parts||Drilled pilot holes and clecoed Vertical Stabiliser channel. Up-drilled only one side of (L/H) for riveting. Disassembled and start de-burring, Scotchbrighting, cleaning and Priming one side of the side panels.
|2011-06-04||Continue de-burring and preparing for riveting||De-burring, schotchbrighting, cleaning and priming one more side panel and 8 channels.
Riveted Fairleads assemble to Vertical Channels #1L/R
|2011-06-05||Continue de-burring and preparing for riveting||Continue De-burring, schotchbrighting Aft Fuselage parts
|2011-06-06||De-burring Aft Fuselage parts||Continue de-burring, scotch-brighting cleaning and priming with Wattle edging aluminium primer spray pack Aft Fuselage parts.
|2011-06-07||Finished preparing for riveting||Finishing de-burring, scotch-brighting cleaning and priming with Wattle edging aluminium primer spray pack Aft Fuselage parts.
Start assemble Lower Aft Fuselage
|2011-06-08||Start riveting Lower Aft Fuselage||Continue to assemble Lower Aft Fuselage. Start riveting Horizontal ties (Channels) to Vertical Channels on Side Panels
|2011-06-09||Finished riveting Lower Aft Fuselage||Finished riveting Lower Aft Fuselage. Start Turtle Deck. Clecoed Turtle Deck Skin. Rivets Formers #5 - #3, have to put some spacers between the Turtle Deck Skin and the formers to prevent dimples.
|2011-06-10||Finished riveting Turtle Deck #5 - #2||Riveted Former # 2, needed some spacers to prevent dimples in the Turtle Deck Skins. Did not do Former #1. Awaiting new Former F20-01L/R due to cracking from Sonex. These Former are being replaced under warrantee
|2011-06-14||Start Upper Firewall||Start drawing SNX-F17. Bended F17-05 and 06. Filler Box Skin and end.
Work Flutes on F17-03 from 77 degrees centre to 94 towards the edge. Clamped, drilled and Clecoed Filler Box assemble. Up-drilled and Clecoed
|2011-06-15||Riveted Filler Box||Drawing SNX-F17. Assembled and riveted Filler Box.
This did not to be to difficult.
|2011-06-16||Upper Firewall Assemble||Work Upper Firewall Former to get a mounting surface for the SouthCo 1/4 Turn fastener and get the correct Flute angles between 94 and 77 degrees. This was a pain in the backside and took lots of time, maybe I am to fussy.
I needed 7 SouthCo fasteners but got only 6 from Wicks.
Clamped, drilled, clecoed and up-drilled Windshield Strap to Upper Firewall assemble. Try to improve Former Flutes again. Dimple all holes following the drawing F17.
The dimpled holes are slightly larger.
|2011-06-17||Finished Upper Firewall Assemble||De-burred, scotch-brighted, cleaned, primed and riveted Upper Firewall Assemble. Some of the Mandrels broke off above the rivet head. But it was easy to just knock them below the surface with a Pin Punch.
Made Gusset F17-11, Aft Clip -12, Upper Clip -10, Firewall Floor Stiffener -08 and Floor Stiffeners -09.
The Lower Firewall F17-01 supplied with the kit differs from the drawing SNX17. About 1" below the top of the Firewall sheet it has 30 extra pilot holes. Emailed Kerrie from Sonex. This is correct because these holes are Laser drilled so accurate that you can Cleco them straight on to the Upper Firewall Assemble. Scratch builders are not able to drill these holes accurate enough that they line up with the Upper Firewall pilot holes.
|2011-06-19||Received new F20-01L/R Formers||Start fitting Formers #1 R/H on the Aft Fuselage. Works the flutes, clamped, pilot drilled in place
|2011-06-20||Complete Aft Fuselage||Work Former #1L/H flutes, clamped, pilot holes drilled and clecoed. Fitted R/H and L/H Attached Plates to Cross Tie Box and Formers #1. Clamped with Forwards Clip together, pilot drilled and Clecoed. Up-drilled all pilot holes and Clecoed. Looks all pretty good. Disassembled, de-burred, scotchbrighted, cleaned, primed and clecoed it together. Went all very well. Riveted all parts together. Cleaned and primed bottom plate of the Cross Tie Box. Clecoed and riveted.
Finished Aft Fuselage
|2011-06-21||Start parts for Forwards Fuselage||Start with drawing SNX-F16.
Made the Following parts:
Two Side Clips F16-08
Forward Tunnel Zee 02 and start making Aft Tunnel Angle 05
|2011-06-22||Drawing SNX-F16||Finished Aft Fuselage Angle. Start Aft Tunnel Webs Assemble F16-03.
Bend F16-01 Lower Forwards Skin 30 and 60 degrees Angles at FMC.
|2011-06-23||Aft Tunnel Web Assemble||Experimenting with dimpling and countersinking. Try to dimple through the pilot holes with the dimplier using a washer using a 2mm nail and then drill it out to 3.2mm. First I thought this work ok but after all it is not too good. I decided to try to drill #32 hole and then dimple, this work much better because the hole finished up the correct size for riveting. I decided not countersink because I only have the 100 degree countersink bit and the CCC rivets are 120 degrees.
Send Kerry an email if it is ok to use that 100 degree bit.
Worked on the Aft Tunnel Web assemble. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed. De-burred F16-01 Lower Forwards Skin holes and edges. Try to bend to 5 degrees bend by hand because my bending break is too small but decided to do it later at FMC.
|2011-06-24||Made L/H and R/H Rudder Pedal Mount Assemble||Email from Sonex ok to use 100 degree countersink bit for the blind pull through rivets.
Made 2 Rudder Pedal Support Angles F15-05. Clamp, pilot drilled and clecoed R/H and L/H Rudder Pedal Mount Assemble. Up-drilled and countersink, de-burred, cleaned, primed joining surfaces and riveted with Flush Blind rivets.
Checked, de-burred and took all sharp edges off from all made parts by Sonex (Angle Kit) on drawing F15. Made 2 Spacer Plates F15-08 and the Flap Drive Pivot Bloc Assemble. Still have to drill the 1" hole what I will do at FMC.
|2011-06-25||Countersink F16-04 Support Angle||Countersink all holes in F16-04 Support Angle. Dimple all holes in F16-02 Forward Tunnel Zee. De-burred and Assemble F16-03 Aft Tunnel Web Assemble but not riveted until later.
|2011-06-26||Made Rudder Drive Pivot Blocks||Made Rudder Drive Pivot Blocks assemble. Drill the 1" holes later at FMC.
|2011-06-27||Forward Angle Assemble||Made all parts (apart from F14-02L/H and R/H) for F14-01R/H and L/H Forward Angle Assemble. Drill pilot holes and clecoed for later assemble.
|2011-06-28||Making more parts drawing F13 and F14||Made R/H and L/H Upper and Lower Firewall Attach Angles. Made two F13-05 Canopy Latch Strike Plates. De-burring and checking all F14 and F13 parts already made by Sonex alls part of the Angle Kit.
Start assemble F13-02L/H.
|2011-06-29||Upper Longerons Assemble||Assembled F14-02L/H and R/H Upper Longerons Assemble. De-burred and took all the sharp edges of both Forwards Fuselage Skins.
Decided not to use the Sonex Vent Door installation.
I ordered the NACA Vents from Vans Aircraft.
|2011-06-30||Start assemble R/H Fuselage Forward Side Panel||Starts assemble R/H Fuselage Forward Side Panel. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed all parts following the General Construction order start with the Upper and Lower Longerons.
|2011-07-01||Continue assemble R/H Fuselage Forward Side Panel||Continue assemble R/H Fuselage Forward Side Panel. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed all parts following the General Construction.
|2011-07-02||Continue assemble R/H Fuselage Forward Side Panel||Continue assemble R/H Fuselage Forward Side Panel. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed all parts following the General Construction.
|2011-07-04||R/H Fuselage Forwards Side Panel||Continue drawing F12 general construction order. Have to round of the edge (what fits on the seat belt attached angle) R/H Angle Clip to make it fit. Disassembled de-burred all drilled pilot holes. Re-assembled, up-drilled all holes to riveting size. Up-drilled the holes not done before for the AN525-10R12 bolts (3/16") and fitted bolds|
|2011-07-05||Finished up-drilling R/H Side Side Panel||Shaped Doubler Support Plate radius with the skin cut radius. Fitted F15-06R Doubler. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed. Up-drilled and clecoed.
R/H Skin drilling is done. Wait with de-burring until L/H Side Panel is done.
Start with L/H side panel. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed L/H Upper and Lower Longerons, Forward Angles, L/H Forwards Angle assemble, Rudder Pedal Angle and the L/H Forwards and Aft Wing Attach Angle. Following general construction order drawing F12.
|2011-07-06||Continue L/H Forwards Fuselage Side Panel||Continue from point 8 Horizontal Angle till point 16 F15-08 Spacer. All clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed|
|2011-07-07||Continue L/H Forward Side Panel assemble||Continue from point 16 till point 22 drawing F12 general construction order. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed. Disassembled and de-burred all parts re-clecoed and up-drilled. Start to up-drill Motor Mounts and fitted AN 525 bolts.|
|2011-07-08||Up-drilled L/H Side Panel||Up-drilled all holes to riveted size. Clamped, pilot drilled F15-06 "Doubler" up-drilled and clecoed. Up-drilled Rudder Pedal Mount assembles and Angle Clip for AN525 bolts and fitted bolds.
Clamped drilled and clecoed Upper and Lower Firewall attached Angles. Up-drilled and bolted.
Disassembled the R/H Forwards Side Panel what was done before and start de-burring
|2011-07-09||Finished de-burring R/H Side Panel||Finished de-burring and scotchbrighting all parts of the R/H Forwards Fuselage Side Panel.
Start priming with Wattle Aluminium self edging Primer spray pack.
|2011-07-11||Polished R/H Side Skin||Polished R/H Forward Fuselage Side Skin with F9. Cleaned Skin with soapy water rinsed and dried.
Reassembled with clecoed for riveting.
|2011-07-12||Riveted R/H Side Panel||Riveted R/H Fuselage Forwards Side Panel following Drawing F12. (did not rivet F14-11R, F14-10 "Aft Wing Attach Angle", Lower Gear Gusset Plate F15-09 and part of the Upper Gear Gusset Plate F15-10)
Disassembled L/H Fuselage Forwards Side Panel and start de-burring all parts holes.
|2011-07-13||Polished L/H Side Panel Skin||De-burred and Scotchbrighted all L/H Side Panel parts.
Polished L/H side panel with F9. Cleaned Skin with soapy water rinsed and dried.
|2011-07-14||Cleaned and Primed LHS Side Panel||Cleaned and Primed with Wattle Self Edging Aluminium Primer.
Re-assembled with clecoes
|2011-07-15||Finished Drawing SNX-F12||Riveted LHS Side Panel following Drawing F12.
Start sorting parts for drawing SNX-F10.
Start assembles F10-16 Idler assemble.
|2011-07-16||Finished Idler assemble||Finished Idler F10-16 assemble.
Made part F10-01 Angle
|2011-07-18||Made parts Forewards Fuselage drawing SNX-F10||Made parts, F10-07 RHS and LHS Idler Attach Bracket, F10-04 Seat Attached Hinge. Clamped, pilot drilled, up-drilled, de-burred, cleaned and primed than rivet F10-03 Cap Assemble.
Start making F10-10 LHS and RHS Support Channels. De-burred, cleaned and checked all the parts already made by Sonex as part of Angle kit
|2011-07-19||Finished drawing F10||Made F10-10 RHS and LHS and two Clips F10-11.
Clamped, pilot drilled, up-drilled, de-burred, cleaned and riveted RHS and LHS Support Channel Assembles.
Made F10-13 RHS and LHS Seatbelt Attached Channel, F10-12 Centre Support Channel and two Clips F10-08
Finished Drawing F10
|2011-07-20||Assembled Seatbelt Attach Assemble||Clamped, pilot drilled all parts of the Seatbelt Attach Assemble F09-02. Up-drilled, de-burred cleaned and primed all joining services. Assemble with clecoes and riveted.
Will start with Drawing F11 tomorrow.
|2011-07-21||Start assemble Forwards Fuselage||Start assemble Forwards Fuselage drawing F11. Fitted Forwards Side panels to Aft Fuselage. I had the Fuselage up side down. Fitted the bottom Skin first following general assemble order. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed the bottom Skin.
Gap between the Aft and Forwards Fuselage are on the bottom 0.8mm but at the top 0.2mm on the LHS and 1.5mm on the RHS.
Send email to Kerry from Sonex.
|2011-07-23||Fitted Lower Firewall||Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed Upper and Lower Firewall Cross Ties. I have to file quite a bit off on the end of the Upper Cross Tie. Filed at to the right size measuring 32" (812.8mm) between the outer sides of Upper Longerons and rounded the end that it fit on the Upper Motor Mount Brackets. Up drilled and fitted AN3-5A bolts.
The Firewall needed also quite a bit of filing off making it rounded at the corners make it to fit between the Motor Mounts.
After having the Forwards Fuselage free floating the gap between the Upper Longerons was ok, about 0.7mm on the LHS and 1.1mm on the RHS. Clamped and drilled to the AN3 size and bolted the Upper Splice plates on both sides of the outer Skin. Drilled and clecoed the bottom Splice Plates to the Lower Skin. Rest will be done tomorrow.
|2011-07-25||Continue drawing SNX-F13||Continue drawing F13 following general construction order.
Put Forwards Tunnel Zee in place.
|2011-07-26||Continue drawing F13||Continue drawing F13 following general construction order.
Put Tunnel Web assemble in place.
|2011-07-27||Start up-drilling Floor Skin||Installed drilled and clecoed Lower Firewall and Floor Stiffener in place. Installed and clecoed Clips and Gussets on the Stiffener.
Start up-drilling the Floor Skin.
|2011-07-29||Made two Hinge Half||Made two Hinge Half SNX-P13-08.
Turned over Fuselage
|2011-08-01||Start Fitting Upper Firewall||Start Fitting Upper Firewall. Needed to file off some material especially on the RHS and LHS corners.|
|2011-08-02||Completed fitting Upper Firewall||Completed fitting Upper Firewall|
|2011-08-03||Up-drilling||Up-drilled all riveting holes in the Upper and Lower Firewall, Stiffeners, and Gussets following drawing SNX-F11.|
|2011-08-04||Start Working on drawing SNX-F09.||Up-drilled and countersink AN Bolts in Upper Spice Plates to Upper Forwards Fuselage Longerons.
Start Working on drawing SNX-F09. Clamped and pilot drilled Seatbelt Attach assemble to the Forwards Fuselage.
Pilot holes in the Cap Assemble what have to be drilled through the F15-12 Angle Clips are to close near the edge of the Angle Clip. The reason is that the whole assemble is designed for a much thinner Cap assemble. But Sonex has changed the thickness of the Cap Assemble with about 2.5mm to increase the strength of the Seat support.
Send Kerry (Sonex) an Email:
I’ m am working on drawing SNX-F09 at the moment installing the Cap Assemble SNX-F10-02 on the Angle Clip SNX-F15-12.
The problem is if I drill into the Angle Clip using the pilot holes located in the Cap Assemble the holes in the Angle Clip getting quite close to the edge.
I marked the holes and the centres of these holes are only about 4.5mm from the edge. That means after drilling for riveting there is only about 3mm of material left.
Is this enough?
I can drill new holes in the Cap Assemble closer to the Cap Assemble edge leaving the existing pilot holes unused so that they lined up nicely in the middle of the Angle Clip.
His reply was:
Your best approach is the one you already suggested – drill new holes that will be better centered.
|2011-08-05||Re-drilled pilot holes in Cap Assemble||Re-drilled pilot holes in Cap Assemble in the way they line up with the middle of the Angle Clips.
Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed the Cap Assemble onto the Seatbelt Attach Assemble and then with F10-09 Channel Assemble and Centre Support Channel fitted into the Forwards Fuselage.
|2011-08-06||Contunue drawing SNX-F09||Continue drawing SNX-F09. Fitted LHS and RHS Seatbelts Attach Channels. It is not easy to drill inside the Fuselage. I decided to marked position of Channels and pilot holes and continue assemble on workbench what is much easier. After clamping, drilling and clecoing it together I put it all back into the Fuselage. Pilot drilled the Channels through the Floor Skin what was not being done before. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed the 3 Gussets onto the Channels.
Position, clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed the Idler Assemble.
|2011-08-08||Dimpling Tunnel||Finished fitting and pilot drilling Idler. Up-drilled all pilot holes following drawing SNX-F09.
Start dimpling and countersinking all holes for inside the Tunnel following drawing F11.
|2011-08-09||Finished countersinking||Finished countersinking and dimpling all holes for inside Tunnel for flash rivets.
Start de-burring all parts for drawing F9 and F11
|2011-08-10||Finished Seatbelt Attach Assemble||Up-drilled, de-burred and clecoed Seatbelt Attach Assemble after Sonex ok reply. The Cap Assemble has been reinforced to 3.2mm thick material. De-burred, primed and riveted.
I have to put the Lower Firewall back because I forgot to up-drill for the AN525-10R12 bolts. Installed these bolts.
Disassemble the whole of the Forwards Fuselage. De-burred checked for scratches and scotch bighted all parts. Still have to de-bur Side Panels.
|2011-08-11||De-burred Lower Skin and Side Panels||De-burred Lower Skin and Side Panels|
|2011-08-13||Polished Floor Skin||Continue de-burring and polished the Lower Skin underneath with Nuvite F9.
Start putting side panelon the Aft Fuselage.
|2011-08-15||Riveted Firewall||Cleaned and primed all joining surfaces. Assembled and clecoed following Drawing F11.
Start riveting Firewall.
|2011-08-16||Finished riveting drawing SNX-F11||Finished riveting following drawing F11. Riveted the Forwards Tunnel Zee flash rivets what went all ok. The Aft Tunnel Web will be riveted later.
Cleaned and primed all parts for Aft Lower Cabin area.
|2011-08-17||Finished riveting Lower Cabin area||Clecoed and riveted all Lower Cabin area parts like Seatbelt Attach, Seat support and Idler drawing SNX-F09
Start with drawing C05-04 Seat Sling. Marked and Cut one sheet for this Seat Sling but I was not able to make it square and still be within the correct measurements. It would be about 5mm short. I had a second sheet. Cut it square and to the correct size.
|2011-08-18||Finished Seat Sling control clearance holes||Finished Seat Sling control clearance holes SNX-C05-04 but do the bending later.
Start with the Universal Control Triangle SNX-C05-08. The Bushes what suppose to fit tightly in the Triangle are fairly loose. Send email to Sonex and I can glue them in with JB Weld or Araldite.
I used a flame torch to burn the pained off the Control Stick Horn SNX-04-08 and cleaned it with grade 240 sanding paper and scotch bright.
The Bushes have to be glue in first before I can ream them.
I also ordered some Reamers and need to buy some JB Weld
|2011-08-19||Start with the Landing Gear||Study drawing SNX-L04 Tri-Gear Main Landing Gear Mount and Installation.
Try to get my head around to fitting the Main Gear.
Start fitting the LHS Main Gear Mount. Made template for the hole in the Lower Skin. The measurement for the hole are about 5mm different that the template. Decided to drill a 10mm hole in the middle of the drawing clearance measurement and file the rest out with the LHS Mount Gear in place. Start filing out the hole.
|2011-08-20||Continue fitting Main Gear Mount||Continue fitting Main Gear Mount SNX-L04-02L/R. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed this Main Gear Mount. This is quite fiddly to get it correct. Filed out the clearance hole in the Lower Skin to line up with the Leg. Made the hole a few mm larger for clearance.
Start clamping, pilot drilling and clecoing the RHS Main Gear Mount. The LHS fitted better than the RHS.
|2011-08-22||Template for Main Landing Gear||Constructed the Template SNX-L04-10 for the Tri-gear Main Landing Gear|
|2011-08-23||Start fitting Tri-gear Main Gear Mount||Fitted Template and clamped gear legs to Template SNX-L04-10.
Drilled most pilot holes through Main Gear Mount and clecoed. Drilled bolt holes for AN bolts through the Aft Tunnel Assemble. Some holes especially in the RHS Main Gear Mnt are very hard to drill. I have to sharpen my drill several times.
Temporary fitted the bolts. Pilot drilled the rest and clecoed
|2011-08-24||Countersink & Dimple Aft Tunel Web for Main Gear Mnt||Took the Main Gear Mnt and the Aft Tunnel Web assemble out of the Fuselage. Countersink all bolt holes and dimple Aft Tunnel Web for the Main Gear Mnt. Used countersink bolt with washers and nut to dimple. De-burred all holes in the Main Gear Mnt and Aft tunnel web. Fitted both the Main Gear Mnt and Aft Tunnel web back in to the Fuselage. Bolted and clecoed. Still have to up-drill the rest of the Main Gear mnt to bottom part of Fuselage.
The RHS steel bar is to close near the outer edge of the Fuselage. To get it between the 28.6 - 41.3mm it have to be pushed inwards, this will leave a little bit of tension on the bolt. Send Kerrie (Sonex) an email. Kerrie responded to push it just within the 28.6 mm and drill the hole.
|2011-08-26||Finished up-drilling Main Gear Mnt||Up-drilled all riveting and bold holes in the rest of the Main Gear Mnt. Fitted the 6 more An525-10R12 bolts on the Main Gear Mnt to Lower Longerons in the Forwards Fuselage drawing SNX-F04. Glued using Araldite the bushes in to the Dual Control Stick Assemble|
|2011-08-27||Dual Control Stick||Cleaned the paint off the Horn shaft what was not so easy. Reamed out th Bushes in the Dual Control Stick Assemble until the Horns fits nicely. Fitted, clamped, drilled and bolted the LHS and RHS Control Stick to the Horns SNX-C04-08. The RHS stick has no play but the LHS has a slight play between the bolt and the Stick. I think this it is ok. I have flown the Jabiru before and had much more play. I start working on the Link Rod, fitting it to the LHS Horn but I accidently up-drilled the front LHS hole in the horn to 7.9 mm (I stuffed up). Before I can finish the Control Stick Assemble I have to make a steel bush (FMC) and fit it in that hole.|
|2011-09-03||Cleaned paint off Rudder pivoting surface.||Cleaned the paint off both Rudder Paddles there where the Pivot Blocks are fitted. This was not easy and it took me 2.5hrs. First I was using a blow torch and later I tried using paint remover. Maybe the paint remover is easier. I made sure that all paint removal fluid was cleaned off and put grease on it to protect it from corrosion.|
|2011-09-06||Drilled Rudder and flaps Pivot Blocks||Drilled Rudder and flaps Pivot Blocks 25 mm holes and bended the Seat Sling at FMC.|
|2011-09-07||Rudder Paddles||Reamed Pivot Blocks several times and made large chamfers before it start to move more freely. Fitted and tensioned the bolts to the correct torque.|
|2011-09-08||Finished Rudder Pivot Blocks||Still have to ream a bit more before it was ok. It took me almost 2 days. Finished Rudder Pivot Blocks|
|2011-09-09||Fitted Flap control in Forwards Fuselage||Fitted Flap control in Forwards Fuselage. A large chamfer had to be filed on the RHS Pivot block to make it fit. Reamed the Flap control Pivot blocks until it moves freely. This took a long time and after torque it the correct torques I still have ream it out a few more times. The Flap control shaft is not totally straight.
Fabricated three SNX-08-04 and two F08-05 Hinges for seat installation.
|2011-09-10||Start fitting Seat Sling.||Clamped hinges to Seat Sling, pilot drilled, up-drilled, de-burred and riveted.
Fitted Seat Sling to the seat support assemble, clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed.
|2011-09-11||Finished fitting Seat Sling.||Continue fitting the Seat Sling drawing F8. Tried to keep Seat Sling straight and tight. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed hinge on Cross Tie box and Forwards Tunnel Zee. Up-drilled, clecoed, de-burred and riveted.
The back of the rivets on the Forwards Tunnel Zee are touching, marking and not sitting flat on the Tunnel Zee material. To prevent further marking I grinded a few mm of the back of the rivets until they are not touching anymore.
|2011-10-01||Fitted Flap Detent Angle||Clamped, pilot drilled, clecoed, up-drilled de-burred and clecoed the Forwards and Aft Attach Angle.
Clamped pilot drilled, up-drilled to AN3 size, de-burred and bolted the Flap Detent Angle.
I do not need the Trim Lever.
|2011-10-02||Fabricated Flap Handle||Fabricated Flap Handle (lever).|
|2011-10-03||Re-made Flap Handle||I filed fingers indents on the wrong side of the Flap Handle.
Trying to re-bend it to 30degrees opposite did not work because holes on the Flap control handle bracket are not in the middle of the Flap Handle.
Re-made the Flap Handle and fitted.
|2011-10-04||Start drawing SNX-07-01 Glare Shield||Start Glare Shield. Cut and filed front of the Glare Shield.|
|2011-10-05||Continue Glare Shield||Cut to size, filed and drilled pilot holes in the aft of the Glare Shield.|
|2011-10-06||Fabricated parts drawing F07||Made 2xF07-10 Side Firewall Angle, oneF07-09 Centre Firewall Angle, one -05 Instrument Panel Cross Tie and one Fuel Tank Angle. Bended the Instrument Panel 66 and 60 degrees angles. Bended F07-07R and -11L Corner Plates 30 degrees angles. Because I have to bend across the grain it was not that easy. I start to bend it in the Press but have to finish it in the vice.|
|2011-10-07||Glare Shield Assemble||Made one more Fuel Tank Angle. Did not realise needed two.
Start assemble Glare Shield Assemble drawing F6-02. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed Instrument Panel to Glare Shield.
Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed Instrument Panel Cross Tie to Instrument Panel. I used a 2" rectangular Aluminium tube to clamp the Glare Shield, Instrument Panel and Instrument Panel Cross Tie together. This kept all flash with the bottom of the Glare Shield and Cross Tie. Pilot drilled and clecoed. Clamped and pilot drilled Cross Tie Attach plate and Corner plates to Glare Shield Assemble. Clamped pilot drilled Fuel Tank Stop Angles to the Glare Shield assemble.
Up-drilled all pilot holes to rivet size and clecoed.
|2011-10-07||Bolted Engine Mount||Up-drilled and countersink all the Engine Mount holes.
Bolted, used castle nuts as temporary fittings.
|2011-10-08||Fitted Glare Shield to Forwards Fuselage||Start fitting Glare Shield to Forwards Fuselage. Clamped assemble in place. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed the Centre Firewall Angle to Glare Shield while also clamping it to the Upper Firewall. The first pilot hole in the Glare Shield went wrong because the clamped assemble moved. Re-clamped and drilled all the other holes ok. I made a doubler over the length of the Centre Firewall Angle. Up-drilled, de-burred and riveted the Centre Firewall Angle to the Glare Shield first.
Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed the riveted Centre Firewall Angle against the Upper Firewall. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed the Side Firewall Angles one by one using a length of timber what fits nicely against the Upper Side Firewall to keep it flat. Up-drilled, de-burred and riveted the Side Firewall Angles to Glare Shield. Clamped with the length of timber, pilot drilled and clecoed the riveted side Firewall Angle to Upper Firewall.
Up-drilled all the Firewall Angles and clecoed.
|2011-10-09||Made slot in Lower Firewall Nose Landing Gear||Cut a 38 x 127mm slot in Lower Firewall for the Nose Landing Gear.
Pilot drilled all holes to fit the Glare Shield Assemble to Forwards Fuselage. To prevent the Glare Shield to be pushed down during drilling I pushed a length of wood against the bottom of the Glare Shield Assemble so that it sit tight underneath the Upper Forwards Longerons supported by the floor.
Up-drilled Corner Plates and the Cross Tie Attach Plates.
|2011-10-10||Test Fitted Fuel Tank||Drilled AN3 holes in Glareshield through Upper Engine Mount Brackets and Fuel Tank Straps. Fitted temporary bolts.
Test Fitted Fuel Tank. Very tight and pushing the Glare Shield out of alignment. Try to fit Upper Firewall. Holes are not lined up. After much pushing I manage to get all the clecoes in.
Emailed Kerrie from Sonex about problems with fitting the fuel tank.
Kerrie replied that the firewall and glareshield need to be riveted in place prior to installing the tank. The provide support for the tank and without those riveted the tank will do whatever it wants and just push the aluminium out of the way.
Filed and sanded with Dremel the neck of the Fuel Tank to fit the Fuel Cap. Cut the neck lower and level to prevent the Fuel Cap being too high for the Lid
|2011-10-11||Start fitting SV1 NACA Inlet Vent||Took Fuel Tank out. Disassembled Glareshield and Upper Firewall . De-burred all holes for Glareshield to Fuselage fitting
Start cutting LHS Side Skin for SV1 NACA Inlet Vent.
|2011-10-12||Continue cutting hole for Vents||Cut RHS SV1 NACE vent inlet hole. Made brackets for back support of both vents.
Drilled and clecoed the Vents to Fuselage Side Skins.
Spray painted both Vents with Aluminium colour paint what can be seen outside.
|2011-10-14||Fitting the Engine Mount||
Drawing P32, Engine Mount and Installation, Vw with Tri-Gear Landing Gear.
Start fitting and clamping the Engine Mount to the Lower and Upper Engine Mount Brackets.
The be able to use the Bottom of the Fuselage as a reference I fitted a 50x50mm square aluminium tube underneath the bottom of the fuselage. Made several shims to fit between all the Engine Mount Brackets. Fitted a piece of Particle Board to the Engine Mount Engine support tubes. After filing about 3mm of the bottom of the Engine Mount steel welded brackets, I was able with this setup to get all the measurement while it was squared up within 3mm.
Emailed Kerrie (Sonex) if this 3mm is a problem, he replied "Sounds like you are much closer than any of the factory airplanes ever were. Bolt ‘er up".
|2011-10-15||Drilled Bolting holes for Engine Mount.||Drilled and clecoed the Engine Mount to the Lower and Upper Engine Mount support Brackets.
I did have not the correct countersink drill bit.
Ordered and awaiting delivery
|2011-10-17||Drive Ribs||Drawing SNX-W04-05 Ailerons Drive Rib Assemble.
Clamped, pilot drilled, clecoed, up-drilled, de-burred and cleaned.
Primed with self edging aluminium primer.
|2011-10-21||Made W04-12 Ailerons Angles||Made and assembled the two W04-12 Ailerons Angles.
Start assemble W03-03 Counter Balance assemble
|2011-10-22||Counter Balance assemble||Counter Balance assemble W03-03. Cut Counter Balance Weights with Bend saw. Cutting went ok but it has the tendency to clod up. Releasing it a lot and using cutting oil helps.
Drilled holes in weight using #40 very carefully, releasing and cleaning drill every 5mm using cutting oil.
Up-drilled with #30, 5/32 and finally 3/16 works fine
|2011-10-23||Continue Counter Balance assemble||Continue Counter Balance assemble. Same as previous day log for second Weight|
|2011-10-24||Finished Counter Balance Assemble||Continue as previous log as 22 Nov.
After drilling all holes de-burred, scotch-bright and cleaned all parts. Primed joining surfaces. Riveted
|2011-10-25||Start cutting Ailerons Skin||Drawing W03-W04. Cut W04-01R RHS Skin angled side and fitted W04-10R Tip Rib. Cut space for W04-05R Drive Rib Assemble and the cut out forW03-03 Counter Balance Assemble. Cut out to much of the Counter Balance space.|
|2011-10-27||Continue Drawing W04 and W05||Continue Drawing W04 and W05.
I made two mistakes on the RHS Skin.
Firstly I cut the skin clearance for the right hand Drive Rib Assemble about 11mm to long. This probable does not have much effect on the strength of the assemble.
The second mistake is: I went to low cutting off the clearance space for W03-03 Counter Balance Assemble. This will be covered by the piano hinge but then it will have a gap what I can probable fix with using a shim between the piano hinge and the Counter Balance Assemble. This will be riveted in place.
Send email to Kerrie with the following reply: the slot being 11mm too long will not be an issue.
Your proposed fix for the aileron counter-balance hole is acceptable. No harm done there.
|2011-12-04||Start LHS Aileron drawing W04 and W05||Start LHS Aileron drawing W04 and W05.
Cut space for W04-05L Drive Rib and W03-03 Counter Balance assembly
|2011-12-05||Continue with LHS Ailerons||Decided to fit W04-05 Drive Rib Assemble, W04-2 Ailerons Rib and W04-03 Counter Balance Assembly first before cutting the Skin to length. Pre-cut Skin W04-01L a 100mm to long and fitted W04-10L Top Rib. After it all fitted ok I cut the 100mm off to get it to the correct size. During this process all other ribs were already clecoed in place. Fitted, drilled and clecoed the W04-06 half Hinge in place. Up-drilled all holes to rivet size.|
|2011-12-06||Re-bending both Tip Ribs||Finished up-drilling W03-01L LHS Aileron Skin. Resumed working on W03-01R RHS Aileron Skin what was already cut at the correct size. W04-10R Tip Rib was clecoed before. Some problems occurred with both Factory made Tip Ribs W04-10R/L. I have to re-bend the back flange of the rib because the angle to line up with the back of the Aileron Skin was 3mm out. Without Tip Rib I start fitting and W04-05R Drive Rib and The W04-03 Counter Balance Assemble first to the RHS Aileron.|
|2011-12-07||Marking and drilling W04-01R Ribs||Continue marking, drilling and clecoing W04-01R Aileron to all Ribs|
|2011-12-09||LHS Aileron prepaired for riveting||LHS Aileron. Finished up-drilled all riveting holes. De-burred, scotch-brighting, cleaned and primed all LHS Aileron parts.|
|2011-12-11||Finished RHS Aileron||Finalising the RHS Aileron. De-burred, scotch-bighted, cleaned and clecoed all RHS Aileron parts. Primed, clecoed and riveted
RHS Aileron finished.
|2011-12-13||Finished LHS Aileron||Clecoed and than riveted LHS Aileron. Both Ailerons Finished|
|2012-02-01||Start drive Rib Assembly||Drawing W06 Flap details. De-burred laser cut Flap Drive Plates holes and edges. Squared Flap Rib flanges.
Start Drive Rib Assembly W06-05R/L. Clamped, drilled and clecoed.
|2012-02-02||Finished Drive Rib Assembly||Up-drilled Drive Rib Assembly W06-05R/L and clecoed. De-burred, cleaned, primed and rivited.
Made L/R half Hinges W06-06R/L. After drilling all pilot holes, deburred.
|2012-02-03||Start RHS Flap.||Cut and filed RHS Flap Skin to length and made end angle. Cut out space for Drive Rib assembly W06-05R. De-burred and smooth all the sides. Squared all Flap Ribs W06-02 bend flanges. Start assemble this RHS Flap W05-01R. Positioned Ribs, pilot drilled and clecoed|
|2012-02-04||Continue RHS Flap||Finished pilot drilling RHS Flap Assembly. Start up-drilling|
|2012-02-10||Prepair RHS Flap for riviting.||Up-drilled all RHS Flap Assembly holes. Start de-burring and cleaning all parts.|
|2012-02-11||Finished RHS Flap||Continue scotch-brighting and cleaning LHS Flap assembly parts.
Filed Skin flange flash with Piano Hinge. Cleaned for priming. Primed inside Flap Skin and all other Rib parts. Clecoed and riveted. Removed protected plastic cover from the Flap Skin assembly and cleaned primer overspray with Mentholated Spirits.
|2012-02-14||Start LH Flap Assemble||Start LH Flap Assemble W05-01L
Cut and filed Skin to length. Cut and filed the correct angle on the end of the Skin and spacing for the Flap Drive Rib. Clamped, fitted and start drilling pilot holes to fit halve Piano Hinge to Skin. I decided to fit the Hinge first with no clecoes in the Skin I was then able to clamp the bottom part of the skin to workbench and fit Hinge more accurate to Skin.
|2012-02-16||Clecoed LH Flap||Continue to pilot drill and clecoed all LH Flap Ribs to Skin.|
|2012-02-17||Prepair LH Flap for riviting||De-burred, cleaned, scotch-brighted and primed all parts. Clecoed for Riveting|
|2012-02-18||Start de-burring LH Flap||Continue to fit Ribs, up-drilled. Start de-burring holes.|
|2012-02-20||Finished LH Flap||Riveted LH Flap. Flap Finished|
|2012-02-24||Start cleaning Upper Spar Cap||Start Main Spar, cleaning one Upper Spar Cap. Filled and scotch-brighted machining marks off.|
|2012-02-25||Start making Wing Attach Blocks W11-03||Made 2 shims W11-04 for Wing Attach Blocks. Start making Wing Attach Blocks W11-03|
|2012-02-26||Continue Wing Attach Block||Continue working on Wing Attach Block W11-03. Made them as accurate as possible.|
|2012-02-27||Continue Wing Attach Block||Continue making the 4 Wing Attach Blocks drawing SNX-W11|
|2012-03-02||Finished the 4 Wing Attach Blocks.||Finished the 4 Wing Attach Blocks W11-03|
|2012-03-03||Assembled Root and End Wing Attach parts||Starts assemble Root and End Wing Attach parts. After pilot drilling and step up drilling used a 1/4" drill just a few hundreds of mm smaller to a nice tight fit for the AN4 bolts.|
|2012-03-04||Continue work on Root and End Wing Attach||Continue work on Root and End Wing Attach assemble drawing W11-06 and 02|
|2012-03-05||Finished Root and End Wing Attach Assembles|| Finished Root and End Wing Attach Assembles W11-06 and W11-02.
Cleaned Manufacturing marks off on most of the Angle pieces Main Spar Drawing W11.
|2012-03-06||Start Main Spar Webs drawing W10||De-burring all the laser drilled holes and sharp edges on the Main Spar Web W10-01. Start de-burring the rest of the Webs on drawing W10. Made W10-04R and 04L End Wing angles Assembles|
|2012-03-07||De-burring Main Spar Webs||Continue de-burring the laser drilled pilot holes and edges on Spar Webs W10-02 and 06|
|2012-03-13||Study Drawing W08 Wing Main Spar||Study Drawing W08 Wing Main Spar|
|2012-03-14||Sorted Main Spar Web||Sorted Main Spar Web parts and continue studying Main Spar Drawing|
|2012-03-15||Proof fitted Spar Webs||Proof fitted Spar Webs W08. Laser drilled holes do not properly fit the silver clecoes the holes are slightly smaller. Re-drilled with a 3/32" drill bit all holes in the Main Spar Centre and the Doubler Web W10-03 and W10-05.|
|2012-03-16||Start assemble RH Spar||Made up 3 chipboard support blocks. Use the blocks to clamp the Lower, Upper Spar Caps and Spar Webs with the Spar Spacing tool between, for the correct Main Spar height. Start drilling pilot holes and clecoed while moving the support blocks and Spacing tool along to maintain correct Spar height.
I used a square during drilling to keep holes straight.
|2012-03-17||Fitted Lower Angle RH Spar||Fitted Lower Angle W11-01 on RH spare. Clamped and Pilot drilled. Clecoes are not long enough. Clecoed on both sides. During up-drilling I will be using 1/8" bolts with nuts to secure it in place. Continue drilling pilot holes in RH Main Spar.|
|2012-03-18||Fitted more parts to RH Main Spar||Drawing W08 Drilled more pilot holes and fitted W11-11 Outboard Vertical Stiffener Angle and W11-10 RH Tie Down Fitting. Still have to up-drill and bolt them.|
|2012-03-19||Fitted Root Rib Attach Angles RH Main Spar||Fitted and temporary bolted W20-03 and W20-02 Root Rib Attach Angles on the RH Main Spar. Start Fitting W10-06 Root Wing Attach Assemble.|
|2012-03-21||Continue R H Main Wing Spar||Up-drilled holes for W11-10R Tie Down. Fitted and Temporary Fitted AN3 bolts (used castle nuts for time being on all temporary AN3 bolts). Fitted W11-09 Vertical Stiffener Angle and W11-08 Upper Stiffener Angle. Up-drilled W11-02 End Wing Attached Assemble for AN3 bolts temporary fitted. Up-drilled all bolt holes for W11-01 Lower Angle and Fitted AN3 bolts temporary.I used the scotch bright wheel to make the 3/16" drill a few microns smaller. The AN3 bolts fitted more tightly in the 3/16" holes. I used some 1/8" screws and nuts to fasten all parts on the Spar Root End were the cleco's are not long enough to get a proper fix. I have ordered some different sizes 1" wing nut cleco's|
|2012-03-22||Continue R H Main Wing Spar||Drilled pilot holes in both Tip Web assemble (I forget to do then earlier) W10-04 R/L. Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed R H Web Assemble W10-04R. Cleaned workbench.
Up-drilled all non flash rivets holes to #21 solid rivet sizes. Most of these holes are in the Upper and Lower Spar Cabs. I marked all the non flash rivet holes first before drilling. Up-drilled the 24 #30 holes on the spar cabs wing rib locations. Afterwards I discovered that this was a mistake and should have been left pilot holes size.
|2012-03-23||Up-drilled all holes on R H Main Wing Spar||Up-drilled the rest of the R H Wing Main Spar to #21. Disassembled and start de-burring all holes|
|2012-03-24||Countersink R H Spar Web||Finished de-burring holes in Spare Webs, Lower and Upper Spar Cabs. Countersink the Centre Spar Web, Lower and Upper Spar Cabs #21 holes for flash solid rivets following drawing SNX-W08.|
|2012-03-25||Cleaning up R H Spar||Start scotch- brighting R H Upper Main Spar Cab.|
|2012-04-03||Start L H Wing Main Spar||Finished scotch-brighting and cleaning (took all scratches out) Main Upper and Lower Spar Cabs, Spar Webs and all other parts what made up the R H Wing Main Spar apart from the Main Spar Web what still need to be dimpled. (Awaiting tool order)
Start L H Wing Main Spar.
|2012-04-04||Start pilot drilling L H Main Spar||Clecoed the Main Spar Webs. Clamped in position and start pilot drilling the L H side Upper and Lower Spar Cabs to the Main Spar Web.|
|2012-04-10||Drilling more pilot holes in the L H Main Spar||Continue drilling L H Main Spar pilot holes.|
|2012-04-12||Start up-drilling L H Main Wing Spar||Fitted, clecoed and up-drilled to AN3 size bold holes the W11-06 Root Wing Attach Assemble, W11-02 End Wing Attach Assemble and the W20-02/03 Root Rib Attach Angles.|
|2012-04-13||Fitted Angles and stiffeners to L H Spar||Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed W11-09 Vertical Stiffener Angle, W11-01 Lower Angle and the W11-08 Upper Stiffener. On the Lower Angle W11-01 I used 1" long wing cleceos to secure and drilled all the 8 AN3 bolts holes. Up-drilled the rest of the Angles holes to riveting size.|
|2012-04-14||Continue L H Main Wing Spar||Clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed W11-11 Outboard Vertical Stiffener and W11-10 L H Tie Down fitting. Filed and sanded W09-02L Lower L H Spar Cab area the make it sit flash with Spar Cab. Up-drilled to AN3 bold and other holes to riveting size. Fitted W10-04L Tip Web Assemble. Up-drilled all rivet size holes. Dimple all flash rivet holes in the W1-02 Aft Spar Web|
|2012-04-15||Countersink L H Main Spar||Start de-burring L H Main Spar parts.
Dimpled R H Wing Main Spar flash rivet holes in the W10-01 Main Spar Web. Countersink all flash rivet holes for the L H Wing Main Spar in the Main Spar Web and Upper Spar Cab W09-01L included bolts holes.
|2012-04-16||More de-burring||Continue de-burring L H Main wing Spar|
|2012-04-17||De-burred L H Main Wing Spar parts||Continue de-burred L H Main Wing Spar parts. Start scotch-brighting Spar Web parts.|
|2012-04-18||Continue cleaning L H Main wing Spar||Cleaning all scratches out the Web parts, Lower and Upper Spar Cab.|
|2012-04-19||Start Assembly L H Main Spar||Finished cleaning the L H Wing Spar Lower Spar and Upper Spar Cabs. Start assembly the L H Main Wing Spar. Tighten some of AN3 bolts to the correct tension. Start putting the solid rivet into the holes secured with riveting tape.|
|2012-04-20||Start solid riviting L H Main Wing Spar||Made a test piece for about 4 flash and 4 normal solid rivets. Need to support the bucket bar on the concrete floor otherwise it bunches too much. Polished the Bucket bar and 12mm bold heads. Fitted 2 nuts with between the washer. After about 25 solid rivets more and more rivets are not set correctly. The Bolt has bended. I got two new bold from the hardware store. I need high tension bolts but they did not have them. Drilled out about 6 rivets and re-rivet with new bold.|
|2012-04-21||Continue riveting L H Spar||Continue riveting all the AN470AD5-6 rivets. So far I totally riveted 158 plus 7 for the Tip Web assembly, the new bold start to bend and I have to drilled out and re-rivet another nine rivets with another new bold. This time I fitted 4 nuts on the bold, this covered all the tread. Hopefully this will prevent the bold bending again.
I ordered two M12x180mm high Tension steel bolts and nuts.
|2012-04-28||Finished riveting LH Main Wing Spar||Continue solid riveting. First did the all the flash rivets using a 16mm 200mm long stainless steel rod and used a 10mm steel rod for the tight area. This work a lot better I only needed to drill out one flash rivet. Finished riveting L H Main Wing Spar.|
|2012-04-29||Finished L H Main Wing Spar||Fitted W20-02 and 03 Root Rib Attach Angles. Have to round the washer circumference to prevent the washer grabbing into the angle material and not sitting flash. Tightened AN3 bold and nuts to the correct tension. Repaired slightly damage edges on Spar Cabs cause by riveting. Finished L H Main Wing Spar.|
|2012-04-30||Assemble R H Main Wing Spar for riveting||Cleaned and scotch brightened the Main Spar Web. Cleaned all R H spar parts. Clecoed Spar together. Bolted and clecoed all angles and tightened the bolts and nuts to the correct tension. The Root Ribs W20-02 and 03 and End Wing Attach Assemble will be fitted after riveting. Pushed all rivets in the Spar, secured with riveting tape.|
|2012-05-01||Solid riveting L H Main Wing Spar||Start solid riveting, did the flash riveting first. I used as much I could the 16mm stainless steel rod. This works very well. On the root end of the spar cabs I started a rivet with the 16mm Rod and finished it with the 12mm bold. On rivets what could not be done with the 16mm rod and 12mm bold I used a 9mm stainless steel rod. This took more time but it turns out good. In total I had to redo 12 rivets mainly the longer rivets.|
|2012-05-02||Finished riveting L H Main Wing Spar||Did the rest of the riveting using the 16mm stainless steel rod. None of the rivets done today needed to be redone.
Finished solid riveting.
|2012-05-03||Finished L H Main Wing Spar||Fitted the Root Ribs Attach Angles W20-02 and 03. Rounded the washers for the AN3 bolds underneath the nuts to prevent damage to the radius in the Root Ribs and made the washer sit flash. Fitted Also the End Wing Attach Assembly and set the bolts to the correct tension. Cleaned up some slight damage and scratches during riveting especially the Spare Cabs.|
|2012-05-04||Meting R H and L H Main Wing Spars||During meting the R H and L H Main Wing Spar together one bold on both End Wing Attach Assemblies are interfering, I took these 2 bolds out temporarily. Lined the three middle meting holes up with 3/32" pins, clamped and up-drilled one by one to size 1/8" while securing them the same time with a 1/8" x 1" long wing cleco. After up-drilling and securing all three of them I checked the outer 2 mating holes (End Wing Attach Assembly. They are both fine. I further up-drilled the three middle meting holes to 3/16" and clecoed with 3/16" x1" wing cleco's.|
|2012-05-07||Finished mating Main Wing Spar||Continue mating both Spars. Filed about 1mm off both Lower inner Spar areas to clear the interference with End Wing Attach Assembly bolds. Up-drilled the three inner holes to 1/4" and bolded. Positioned the meted Spars on the drill press making sure that it was all perpendicular and clamped it in position. Up-drilled to 1/4" size both holes through the End and Root Wing Attach Assembly. All went well, unmated and de-burred. Spars all done.|
|2012-05-08||Start drawing W13 Rear Spars||Made two W13-04 Dubbler and start W12-01R Atttach Plate.|
|2012-05-09||Finished drawing W13||Modified W13-01 to W13-01R R H Attach Plate what is slightly different than W13-01L L H Attach Plate. Up-drilled on both plates one hole to 3/16" and cleaned. Cleaned with scotch-bright W13-02 L H and R H Root Rib Attach Angles. Made 4 W13-03 Radius Blocks and W13-05 L H and R H Tip Rib Attach Angles. Finished drawing W13. Start drawing W12 making 02 L H and R H Rear Spar Channels.|
|2012-05-10||Drawing W12||Cut and filed out Control clearance holes in W12-02 R H and L H Rear Spar Channels. Cut to length, marked and drilled pilot holes using a template. Made R H and L H Outboard Rear Spars W12-03L/R. Marked, drilled pilot holes and cut-outs. Start assembly R H Rear Spar Assembly W12-01R. Joint R H Outboard Rear Spar to R H Spar Channel using a Splice Plate W12-04. Fitted W13-04 Doubler and R H Attach Plate W13-01R. Up-drilled to rivet size and clecoed.|
|2012-05-11||Up-drilled L H Rear Spar Assembly||Finished assembly W12. Up-drilled to rivet size and bolted AN3-7a bolds for the Root Rib Attach Angle. Disassembly and start de-burring.|
|2012-05-12||Finished both Rear Wing Spars||De-burred, cleaned with scotch bright and metho both Rear Wing Spars. Primed riveting areas with self priming aluminium primer. Assembled and riveted. Both Rear Wing Spars finished|
|2012-05-20||Drawing SNX-W16||Aft Wing Ribs. De-burred, scotch brigted and bended W16-07 and 08 Gussets total 16. Made 4x W16-09 Angles. (I discovered later that I needed only one).|
|2012-05-21||Drawing SNX-W15||Forward Wing Rib. De-burred, scotch-brigted and bended eight W15-06 and eight 07 Gussets. Trimmed off five Forwards Wing Ribs needed to clear the Spar Cabs. Clamped, pilot drilled W15-02,03 and 04 Forwards Rib Assemble #02, #03 and #04 still #01 to do.|
|2012-05-22||Finished Drawing W15||Finished W15-01 Forward Rib Assembly #1. Up-drilled all Forward Rib Assemblies to size #30. Started trimming W16-04 and 03. Same time drilled through pilot holes and clecoed following Drawing 16 Aft Rib Assembly.|
|2012-05-23||Continue Drawing W16||Trimmed off W16-o1L/R, 02 and 03 Aft Rib Assembly. Pilot drilled and de-burred. I redid one Aft Rib #5 incidental I pilot drilled and fitted a Gusset on it. Not a big problem because I still could use the Rib for W16-03 Aft Rib Assembly. (I will do that tomorrow). Fitted W16-09 Angle to the 01R Rib. Trimmed off the end of the Rib following the drawing.|
|2012-05-24||Start W21 Aileron Bellcrank||One more Rib on SNX-W16 drawing. Rib #5 trimmed clearance for Spar Cab. Drawing W16 finished only need riveting.
Start W21 Aileron Bellcrank Installation/Aft Rib #9 Assemble. Cleaned up parts for both L H and R H installation. Made Spacer block 08 and 05. Squared, clamped and drilled holes for AN3 bolts 02R/L Bellcrank Upper and Lower Angles with Spacer Blocks. Fitted bolts and drilled/reamed holes for bushes. Press fitted them ok. Fitted both Bellcrank Pivot Assemblies to the Ailerons Bellcrank Assemblies with grease.
|2012-05-25||Continue Aileron Bellcrank Rib #9 Assembly||Made two W21-13 and 14 Fwd and Aft Vertical Channel Reference. Marked Channels position on the Rib #9R. Marked holes position on Rib and drilled pilot holes. Clamped channels to Rib and pilot drilled through channel 13 and 14 and clecoed. Fitted and Make sure it aligned with the Wing Cord Reference Line the W21-02R Bellcrank Pivot Assembly. Drilled pilot holes and clecoed. Made four 09 Clips for Rib #9R Assembly. Clamped flash with Rib flange and Clecoed. Up-drilled all hole in Rib #9 Assemblies to riveting size. Finished apart from riveting.|
|2012-05-26||Finished both Rib #9L Assemblies||Start and finished apart from riveting the left hand Rib #9 Assembly.
See previous log 25 May (Rib #9R Assembly) for installation procedures.
|2012-05-28||Riveted R H and L H Rib #9 assembly||De-burred, cleaned and riveted both R H and L H Rib #9 Assembly W21-01L/R. Start SNX-W14 Wing Rib Installation. Made fourteen Centre Spacers W14-02 and ten Web Spacers 03. Drilled pilot holes Spacers using a Template. Fitted and Clecoed R H Rib #5 - 12. Fitted and clecoed R H Rear Spar.|
|2012-05-29||Fitting more Ribs to R H Spar||Drawing W14. Fitted Ribs #1R - 3R. Up-drilled all holes through Fwd/Aft Ribs, Spacers and Spar. De-burred #1 Fwd and Aft ribs. Re-made one Gusset W15-07 because during up-drilling Gusset moved and one hole on bended part was incorrect. De-burred and riveted Gussets to Aft and Fwd Rib #1. Clecoed Rear Spare to Aft Ribs. The Rear Spar does not line up exactly to the Aft Ribs. The Spar is sitting about 0.7mm low. Pilot holes on Ribs came pre-drilled from Sonex and after measuring and comparing with drawing the holes in the Rear Spar are correct. During up-drilling I can correct about 0.5 mm therefore this would not be a problem only a more work. Send email to Sonex about this. Maybe it is better not to have pilot holes drilled in the trailing edge of the Aft Ribs.|
|2012-05-30||Cleaning up R H Fwd/Aft Ribs # 2 - #5||Continue de-burring and cleaning with sanding paper 280 and scotch bright Fwd/Aft Ribs #2 - #5. Riveted the Gussets to these Ribs|
|2012-06-01||Continue de-burring R H Ribs||Continue de-burring and cleaning with sanding paper 280 and scotch bright R H Fwd/Aft Ribs #6 - #9|
|2012-06-02||Finished R H Ribs cleaning/de-burring||Finished cleaning/de-burring R H Fwd/Aft Ribs #9 -#12.
Received email from Kerry (Sonex) to clamp the Aft Rib to the spar in the correct position and up-drill. As long the hole is round then it is ok. Even if the Rear Spar sits 0.7 lower this would not cause much of a problem. I clamped Rib to Rear Spar with the pilot holes lined up vertically. The Spar holes covert about 30 to 40% of the holes in the Rib. Start up-drilling. I checked the up-drilled holes are all ok. But even with clamping the Spar to the Rib the Spar moved al little bit. The alignment has improved with about 0.5mm. This is a good result. Continue up-drilling Aft Rib #2 to #11. Still #12 and #1 to do. De-burring all up-drilled holes. One hole in Rib # was already up-drilled before I discover the lower Rear Spar Position.
|2012-06-11||Modifying Ribs||Drawing SNX-W17. Modified Aft and Fwd Ribs for R H Root Ribs.
Made Gussets W17-04, 05 and 02.
|2012-06-12||Continue SNX-W17||Due to not able to rivet the Fwd and Aft Ribs to the Spar because the reinforcement gussets rivets are riveted already, with the rivets heads on the flash side of Ribs #1 to #4R. This prevents me from getting the rivet gun in. I drilled out enough rivets to be-able to rivet the Ribs to the Spar later. Re-rivet the drilled out rivets with the rivet head on the inside of the Ribs.
Continue making gussets W17-03, 06, 07, 08 and 09. Drilled pilot holes in gussets. Modified R H Fwd and Aft #1 Ribs following drawing W17. Pilot drilled clecoed, up-drilled and clecoed Fwd and Aft Ribs to the R H main spar. The 5 holes through the Root/Rib attach angle to be done later. Clamped, drilled and riveted W23-07 tubing assemble to Fwd Ribs #1 to 4
|2012-06-13||Test fitted Upper Wing Skin||Drawing W17. Test fitted W19-01 R H Upper Wing Skin. De-burred all pilot holes and edges on this Skin|
|2012-06-14||Start fitting R H Upper Wing Skin||Start fitting R H Upper Wing Skin. Try to square wing up. Made from two round aluminium tube two braces clamped together. Fitted braces to one of the main spar root holes and the Rear Spar Attach hole. Set the distance between wing station 0,00 and Rear Spar Attach hole to 19” (482.6mm) and clamped braces together. Marked a line through the middle of all Aft Rib top flanges. The line will be lined up with the Aft Upper Wing Skin of the R H Wing. Clamped the wing in position with the edge of the Rear Spar while trying to push the Main Spar strait. The Main Spar is twisted due to solid riveting. Start drilling every second pilot hole through into the Rear Spar while clecoing it.|
|2012-06-14||Continue fitting R H Aft Upper Wing Skin||Pilot drilled and clecoed every second pilot hole into the Main Wing Spar while keeping the edge of the Main Spar flash with the Skin edge. I used several clamps to keep it in position. When I got closer to the Root part of the Main spare I kept the edge of the skin aligned with a drawn line on the Main Wing Spar. I tried as much as possible to lined up the marked line on the Rib flange with the Skin pilot holes while drilling pilot holes through into the Wing Aft Ribs.
Made two W03-03 Aileron Hinges and fitted one of them to the R H Upper Wing Skin and Rear Spar. I used the pilot holes in the Aft Upper Skin to position the Hinge. I drilled about 8 pilot holes and then fitted the hinge with clecoes onto the Skin and Rear Spar. I test fitted the R H Aileron to the Wing. I drilled and clecoed the rest of the pilot holes for the Aileron and made sure that it is aligned and the hinge pin slight in and out of the hinge easily. Up-drilled all the Aileron Hinge holes and Clecoed. The Aileron sits nicely and to Hinge pin can move easily in and out. Drilled the remainder Rear Spar pilot holes.
|2012-06-16||Finished drilling pilot holes R H Upper Aft Skin||Drilled the rest of the pilot holes into the R H Main Wing Spar|
|2012-06-23||Fitted R H Aft Root Rib||Installed R H Aft Root Rib. Pilot drilled and clecoed the Root Rib to Aft Root Attach Angle and the Rear Spar Attach Angle using the 90 degrees angled air drill. Up-drilled and clecoed. Pilot drilled through Skin into the Aft Root Rib keeping the marked line on the Rib Flange lined up as much as possible with the Skin Holes.|
|2012-06-25||Fitted R H Fwd Root Rib.||Located and marked wing cord hole on the Fwd R H Root Attach Angle. I also used a 1/4" rod what I slight into 5 Fwd Wing Rib fabrication holes. Fitted the Fwd Root Rib hole into the rod and aligned the Root Rib Wing Cord hole with the marked position on the Root Attach Angle. Clamped, pilot drilled using 90 degrees angle air drill, clecoed, up-drilled and clecoed.|
|2012-06-25||Fitted RH Fwd Root Rib||Drawing W17, located and marked Wing cord hole position on the Fwd RH Root Rob Angle. I used a 1/4" rod through 5 Ribs fabrication holes. Fitted RH Fwd Root Rib using this alignment.|
|2012-06-26||Trial fitted Aileron||Up drilled about halve of the pilot holes in the Aft Upper Skin to Ribs and Rear Spar. Tried fitting the RH Aileron. I have to shorten the AN3 counterweight bolds (thread side) because I was not able to fit Counterweight through the rear Spar clearance hole. After fitting the Aileron the bold head on the counterweight is scraping Aft Rib #12.
I decided to order countersinks bolds. This will give plenty of clearance
|2012-06-26||Trial fitted Aileron||Up drilled about halve of the pilot holes in the Aft Upper Skin to Ribs and Rear Spar. Tried fitting the RH Aileron. I have to shorten the AN3 counterweight bolds (thread side) because I was not able to fit Counterweight through the rear Spar clearance hole. After fitting the Aileron the bold head on the counterweight is scraping Aft Rib #12.
I decided to order countersinks bolds. This will give plenty of clearance
|2012-06-26||Repaired Drive Horn||Drawing SNX-L02-01. Last year I fitted the Drive Horn upside down on the Nose Gear Strut. I welded a bush inside the Nose Gear Strut and drilled a pilot hole in the middle of the Drive Horn hole. Updrilled pilot hole and filled out the hole to almost the hole in the Drive Horn. Updrilled to the correct size 7.9 mm. This went very well, the AN4 bold fit without play.|
|2012-07-09||Fitted the Lower Aft Skin RH Wing||Updrilled the rest of the Aft Upper Skin. Start fitting the Aft Lower Skin. Drilled pilot holes through Skin into the Rear Spar first while the Wing is still on the Workbench|
|2012-07-10||Moved wing off the workbench||RH Wing, moved wing off the workbench. Supported Wing with two work tables resting the Main Spar on the work tables, Aft Wing facing up. Drilled rest of pilot holes through the Lower Aft Skin into the Main Spar. Lined up marked line drawn on the centre of the Rib flange with the pilot holes in the Skin. Made halve hinge for Flap. Fitted halve hinge to Rear Spar using the Aft Lower Skin holes as a template and drilled 6 pilot holes keeping the middle of the hinge pin level with the Skin. Fitted Halve Hinge to Rear Spar. Trail fitted Flap and Aileron.|
|2012-07-11||Fitted Flap to RH Wing||Continue fitting the Flap onto the RH Wing. Drilled rest of pilot holes through Skin into the Hinge while the Flap was fitted to the hinge. During drilling and clecoing I made sure the hinge pin is still moveable. The bottom of the halve Hinge is interfering with the Rear Spar radius. I cut off a few mm from the Hinge. Start Updrilling all holes apart from the ones in the Main Spar|
|2012-07-12||Finished Updrilling RH Wing Aft Lower Skin||Finished Updrilling RH Wing Aft Lower Skin apart from the Main Spar|
|2012-07-14||Start fitting Leading Edge onto the RH Wing||Drilled rest of pilot holes in to the Main Spar. Turn Wing 180degrees around with the leading edge (LE)facing up. Clecoed the LE to the Upper part of the Main Spar.|
|2012-07-15||Fitted LE to RH Wing||With a strap and with felt fitted plank the LE Skin is push in position, this enable me to secured the LE Skin onto the Main Spar using clecoes.
Drilled pilot holes through LE Upper Skin. Ans helped me to line up the Ribs.
|2012-07-16||Continue drilling LE Skin to Ribs||RH Wing. Continue drilling LE Skin to Ribs|
|2012-07-28||RH Wing LE dimpling||Start Updrilling pilot holes in the LE Skin using 1/8" drill.
I did some experimenting with dimpling and decided to modify a 1/8" dimpling tool. Deburred LE Skin holes and dimpled the Skin holes.
|2012-08-04||Deburred RH Wing||Cleaned and Scotch brighted the LE Wing. Start deburring rest of RH Wing|
|2012-08-06||Cleaning and deburring RH Wing||Disassembled the RH Wing, deburred, cleaned and Scotch-brighted the Upper and Lower Aft Skin. Deburred the Main and Rear Spar. Primed the Main Spar and Root Rib with self edging primer. Fitted and riveted Root Ribs|
|2012-08-07||Riveted RH Wing Ribs to Main Spar||Cleaned all Ribs with metho and primed using self edging Aluminium primer.
Made Plate to fit the bought Pitot Tube, riveted Pitot Tube to plate. Marked and installed the Pitot Tube Assemble to the Aft Lower Skin using four 2 Lugs Anchor riveted to Skin at the same position as on the drawn.
Fitted and Riveted Ribs #1 to #12 onto the Main Spar clecoed Rear Spar.
Start Polishing the Aft Lower Skin
|2012-08-08||Polished Aft Lower and Upper RH Wing Skin.||Finished polishing the Lower and Upper Aft Skin with F9 only.|
|2012-08-10||Polished RH Wing LE Skin||Polished the LE of the RH Wing with F9|
|2012-08-11||Clecoed Upper and Lower Aft Skin to RH Wing||Primed with self edging primer the inside of the Upper and Lower Aft Skins.
Clecoed Skins to the RH Wing
|2012-08-13||Riveted both Aft Skins to RH Wing||Riveted the Upper and Lower Aft Skins to Rear Spar and Ribs. During riveting I had the Flap and Aileron fitted, checked the hinge pin if it stills slides in and out easily.
Fitted the grommets and wires for the navigation lights through the top of the LE Ribs manufacturing holes.Fitted hoses for Pitot Tube through the Hose Bracked Assemble
|2012-08-14||Riveted LE to the RH Wing||Fitted and riveted the LE Skin to the RH Wing. Riveted the remainder of the Wing apart from the Tip and Root Ribs. Start fitting the fibreglass Tip to the Wing|
|2012-08-15||Fitted Navigation Light Bracked RH Wing Tip||Fitted and pilot drilled the RH Wing Tip. Fitted the RH Navigation Light LOTEK bracket to the Wing Tip. To be able to take the lights off I used six two Lugs Anchor Nuts riveted to the RH Wing Tip. The LOTEK bracket will be screwed to the Wing Tip with Flat Head Cross Recessed screws. I cut out an area of about 100x25mm in the Wing Tip underneath the LOTEK bracket to be able to connect and disconnect the lights using a 4 wire connector. I drilled a 6mm hole in the Main Spar Tip End, fitted a grommet and feed the Navigation Wire through it. I used shielded #22 4 wire cable.
Updrilled all holes for the RH Wing Tip. Deburred, Countersunk and dimpled the LE part of the Wing Tip and Skin
Riveted the Wing Tip in place. RH Wing finished
|2012-08-16||Polished the RH Wing Flap||Polished the RH Wing Flap with F9|
|2012-08-17||Polished the RH Aileron||Polished the RH Aileron with F9
Start polishing the LH Flap with F9
|2012-08-18||Finished polishing the LH Flap.||Finished polishing the LH Flap.|
|2012-08-20||Polished the LH Aileron||Polished the LH Aileron with F9|
|2012-08-22||Debur and Scotch-brighted Ribs for LH Wing||Finished polishing the LH Flap. Start De-burring, taking sharp edges off and Scotch-brighted Ribs for LH Wing. Did 7 Ribs today|
|2012-08-25||Start fitting re-enforcement Gussets to LH Ribs||Continue de-burring, taking sharp edges off and Scotch-brighted Ribs for LH Wing.
Pilot drilled the re-enforcement Gussets and clecoed on the LE LH Ribs #1 to 4
|2012-08-26||Finished cleaning and de-burring LH Ribs||LH Wing Ribs. Finished cleaning, de-burring and scotch-brigting LH Wings Ribs. Pilot drilled Aft Rib #1 and 2 with re-enforcement Gussets clecoed to it. Clecoed LE and Aft Ribs #1 and 2 to the LH Main Spar.|
|2012-09-02||Start LH Wing||Start preparing Ribs for the LH wing.|
|2012-09-03||Riveted Gussets to LH Ribs||Riveted Gussets to the Aft and Fwd Rib #1-#4.
Pilot drilled 7 thick and 5 thin Spacers.
Clecoed Aft and Fwd Ribs #5 to #9 tp the Main Spare
|2012-09-05||Fitted all Ribs LH wing||Fitted all Ribs to Main Spar. Up-drilled to riveting size. De-burred and re-clecoed. Marked the centre of Rib Flange on all Ribs. Fitted Rear spar and up-drilled. Made Root Ribs.
Discovered mistake I made on the LH Rear Spar. Drawing SNX-W12 Detail G Root Rib Attach Angle. SNX-W13-02L is fitted with the outside in. After fitted it correctly the Root Rib Attach Angle is 3mm forwards. Fitting the Aft Root Rib on the inside of the Root Rib Attach Angle the Root Rib will still line up with the Edge of the Upper and Lower Aft Skin. The pilot holes through the Skin will also be in the centre of the Root Rib Flange.
|2012-09-06||Fitted Nose Wheel Assembly||Drawing SNX-L02, Took Engine Mount off. Fitted Nose Wheel Assemble to Engine Mount. Fitted Travel Stop Plate. Re-fitted Engine Mount and fitted Push Rod Assembly C02-04 to Nose Wheel and Rudder Paddles. Steering is a little bit tight but not hard to operate with the Rudder Paddle. I think it would get better.|
|2012-09-09||Fitted Aft Lower Skin LH Wing||Fitted the Aft Lower Skin to the LH Wing, squared frame and secured. First pilot drilled the Skin to the Rear Spar and then into the Main Spar. Kept edge of Skin flash with the Rear and Main Spar Edge. Clecoed. Drilled all pilot holes into the Rib flange through the predrilled pilot holes in Skin. All holes are nicely located on the drawn line in the centre of the Rib flange.|
|2012-09-10||Up-drilled Lower Aft Skin LH Wing||Up-drilled pilot holes Lower Aft Skin in to the Ribs and clecoed.(needed the clecos)|
|2012-09-11||Fitted and Aft Skin to Rear Spar LH Wing.||Clamped and pilot drilled the Upper Aft Skin onto the Rear Spar keeping Skin and Rear Spar edge flash. Positioned Upper Aft skin forward edge on to the Main Spar.
I kept the Skin and Main Spar edge flash using straps to force Skin into the correct position and flash with the Main Spar.
Pilot drilled every three holes and clecoed. Start drilling pilot holes into the Ribs from the Rear Spar towards the Main Spar.
|2012-09-12||LH Wing pilot drilled Aft Skin to Ribs||Pilot drilled all holes through Upper Aft Skin into the Ribs.|
|2012-09-13||Fitted LH Flap Hinge||Made half Hinge for Flap. Clamped and pilot drilled about 10 holes using the Skin as template. Kept middle of Hinge pin even with edge of Skin. Clecoed Hinge onto the Rear Spar and fitted the Flap. Pilot drilled all holes making sure Hinge pin is still easy to move. I have to take some material from the bottom of the Hinge to have it sitting hard against the inside of the Rear Spar Channel. Up-drilled and clecoed.|
|2012-09-15||Installed LH Aileron and Aft Root Rib||LH Wing. Installed Aileron half Hinge using Upper Aft Skin as template. I kept the trailing edge of Skin in the middle of the Hinge pin. Drilled six pilot holes and then installed Hinge with clecos on the Rear spar. Fitted LH Aileron and pilot drilled, clecoed and up-drilled all the holes through the Upper aft skin. Checked movement of Hinge Pin during drilling process. I have to remove some material at the bottom of the Hinge. Shorten all the six AN3 Bold for Aileron balancing weight to be able to fit the balancing weight assembly through the clearance hole. Fitted and torque all the Bolds. Up-drilled apart from the Doubler Plate all the pilot holes to riveting size. Fitted the Aft Root Rib. Drilled first all the pilot holes in the Rear Spar Root Attach Angle and clecoed. Drilled four pilot holes through the Main Spar Root Attach Angle using a 90 degree angle drill. I positioned the drill inside the wing between Rib #1 and Root Rib. Made a template for the rest of the holes on the Aft Root Rib and clecoed in place with four predrilled pilot holes. Drilled all pilot holes through template into the Aft Root Rib and test fitted ok.|
|2012-09-16||Start positioning the LE on the LH Wing||Fitted and up-drilled the Aft Root Rib Rib Angle. De-burred and clecoed. Drilled pilot holes through Skin into the Aft Root Rib. Turn Wing LE up and clecoed the Upper part of the LE to the Main Spar. I used a strap and with felt fitted plank to position the LE Skin in the correct position. This enables me to cleco the Skin to the Main Spar.|
|2012-09-17||Pilot drilled LE LH Wing||Pilot drilled all pilot holes through Skin into the Main Spar and clecoed. Start pilot drilling the LE edge Ribs. I put the Ribs in the correct position using a long stick with 2 nails protected with tape. The Rib fit between the two nails. I lined up the marked Rib flange centre line through the Skin pilot holes. Start drilling pilot holes from the middle up from the Main Spar. I up-drilled the Main Spar holes because I needed the silver clecoes. Fitted and pilot drilled the LE edge Root Ribs. Finished drilling the LE pilot holes. Ans help me with keeping the Ribs in the correct position and pushing the Skin hard against the Ribs during drilling.|
|2012-09-22||Dimpled the LE.on the LH Wing||Up-drilled with 3mm drill every second pilot hole on the LE Skin on both sides. Took the LE off, de-burred the drilled holes on the LE and Fwd Ribs. Dimpled all the up-drilled holes. The dimpled holes are now 3.3mm and will fit the bronze clecos. Re-fitted the LE Skin and clecoed. Up-drilled the remainder LE pilot holes with the 3mm drill. Pilot drilled and clecoed the Doubler. Pilot holes still have to be up-drilled on Doubler.|
|2012-09-23||Fitted LE Root Rib LH Wing||Pilot drilled LE Root Rib through the LE Skin and doubler. Up-drilled and de-burred. Re-clecoed. De-burred part of the on the outside of the up-drilled holes.|
|2012-09-30||Re-placed Balancing Weight RH Wing||Countersunk the inboard part of the Balancing Weight Assembly. Replace the 5 bolts weigh countersunk machine screws because the previous bold head are scraping against Rib #12.
Experimented with balancing the RH Aileron.
|2012-10-01||Dimpled the rest of the LE Skin LH Wing||Took the LE Skin off. De-burred and dimpled the remainder of the 3mm up-drilled holes in the LE Skin and Fwd Ribs. Disassembled rest of the LH wing. After taking the Lower Aft Skin off I drilled the pilot holes for the Bulkhead angle clips in the Upper Aft Skin and up-drilled. Start de-burring the Aft Skins. I ordered some replacement part from Sonex. I was not happy with the Fwd Root Rib what was sitting a bit too high for my feeling.|
|2012-10-06||Removed Aft Root Rib Attach Angle LH Spar||Continue de-burring the Main Spar. I removed the Aft Root Rib Attach Angle. This Angle prevent the last rivet through the Spar the be fitted.|
|2012-10-08||Filed out clearance space for rivets||Filed out with a round file a clearance space for rivets to be able to fit in the Fwd Root Rib Attach Angle and in the Upper and Lower Aft Skin Bulkhead Rib #9 area. The rivets going into the Rib are interfering with the re-enforcement channel for the Bulkhead. Finished de-burring and took all sharp edges off the LH Wing parts. Cleaned up parts with scotch-bright.|
|2012-11-06||Primed LH Main Spar||Cleaned and primed the LH Main Spar. Cleaned and start priming the Fwd, Aft Ribs and Spacers.|
|2012-11-07||Riveted Ribs to Mains Spar LH Wing||Finished priming all the Aft, Fwd Ribs and Spacers.
Clecoed and riveted all Ribs (apart Rib Root Ribs and Rib #1) and Spacers onto the Main Spar
|2012-11-08||Riveted Rear Spar to Aft Ribs LH Wing||Cleaned and primed the Rear Spar. Clecoed and riveted the Rear Spar to the Aft Ribs. ( apart from the Root and #1 Rib. Fitted Aileron control to Bulkhead.
Start Polishing using F9 the Upper Aft Skin.
|2012-11-09||Finished Polishing Upper Fwd LH Wing Skin||Finished polishing Upper fwd Wing Skin. Start polishing LH Wing Aft Lower Wing Skin|
|2012-11-10||Polishing Aft Lower Wing Skin.||Continue polishing Aft Lower Wing Skin.|
|2012-11-12||Finished polishing Aft Lower LH Wing Skin||Finished polishing Aft Lower LH Wing Skin and Doubler.|
|2012-11-13||Polished LE Skin LH Wing||Polished LE Skin. Washed, cleaned and primed the Aft Upper Lower Skin, Doubler and the LE Skin.|
|2012-11-14||Made 20 degree Flap location slot||Made an extra Flap control location slot for 20 degree Flap setting. Flaps can be set for 10, 20 and 30 degree's.
Start marking the position for the Ignition Coils on the Fwd Firewall.
|2012-11-15||Miscellaneous jobs|| Made stand off's for fitting the Ignition coils to the Fwd Firewall.
Silicones the Rudder Paddle to Noise wheel control Boot edge together. Clamped in Vice overnight. The drawing asks to treat the 2 side together but just using high temp. Silicon works well to.
|2012-11-16||Fitted Ingnition Coils and Nose-Wheel Rubber Boot||Finished fitting Ignition Coils to Firewall. Fitted the Voltage regulator. Fitted fitting to the Gas-collator, Marked the Gas-collator position on the Fwd Firewall. Drilled pilot holes. Marked the Nose-wheel Rubber Boot position, drilled pilot holes, up drilled and clecoed boot and Boot Plate to the Firewall.|
|2012-11-17||Completed fitting Gas Collator||Completed fitting Gas-collator to Firewall.|
|2012-11-18||Made the Battery Box.||Drawing SNX-P14. Sonex did not supply any material for the Battery Box. I used some scrap 0.032" 6061T6 material. Due to not having a large piece of scrap material I made the Box in two different parts, bottom and top parts. I riveted the two parts together.
Start fitting it to the RH side of the Firewall. Pilot drilled and clecoed the Box to the Firewall.
|2012-11-19||Made Battery Holder Strap||After making the Battery Holder Strap I have to re-bend it to make it secure the Battery. Made all the halve Hinges and fitted it to the Box with the Battery in place.|
|2012-11-20||Finished and riveted Battery Box to Firewall.||Finished the Battery Box and riveted it to the Firewall.|
|2012-11-21||Start Planning Instrument Panel||Laid out the Instrument Panel. Decided not to make the Panel removable.|
|2012-11-22||Cut off Central Flap Control Bracket||Cut off Central Flap Control Bracket and did some other odd little jobs.|
|2012-11-23||Many odd jobs and Pitch Trim Control||Many odd jobs and working out the Instrument Panel. Fitted Pitch Trim Control to bracket.|
|2012-11-24||Re-worked flight control Sticks||Re-worked the flight control Sticks. Replaced Bushes and machined them to the correct length. Fitted first part of the Elevator Control Rod to the Idler.|
|2012-11-29||Made RH Wing Support Frame||Made up RH Wing Support Frame. Fitted the four Casters under it. Fitted the Flap and Aileron on the RH Wing. This Support Frame works well.|
|2012-12-01||Made new LH Root Rib||I was not happy with the LH LE Root Rib. Received new LE Rib from Sonex. After making the two Gussets for the LE Root Rib I discovered I made them for the RH LE Root Rib. (Peter wake up). Remade Gussets and modified the LE Rib to make it into the LH LE Root Rib. Assembled the Gussets, drilled, up-drilled and riveted only the holes with are not to be fitted to the Root Wing Attach Bracket.|
|2012-12-02||Fitted LH LE Root Rib.||Clamped the LE LH Root Rib to the Fwd Root Attach Angle and fitted the Angle with 2 screw clecoe’s to the Main Spar. After the Fwd (LE) Root Rib was properly aligned I pilot drilled to LE Root Rib to the Fwd Root Rib Attach Angle. Checked, up-drilled, de-burred, primed and riveted the LE Root Rib to this Root Rib Attach Angle. Bolted this assemble to the Main Spar using new locking nuts. Fitted all the Rubber Grommets for the Navigation Light Cable in the LE Ribs most forward 1/4" holes and put the cable through it.
Re-greased Bulk-Head assemble and start assembling the rest of the LH Wing. Still have to drill the holes through the LE Skin into the LE Root Rib
|2012-12-04||Riveted the LH Wing||Marked the middle of the Fwd Root Rib flange and pilot drilled from the LE Skin trough into the Rib Flange. Up-drilled, de-burred and Clecoed. Start riveting all the holes, first the Main Spar then Rear Spar, Aft Lower and Upper Skin and the LE. During riveting the LE some of the Flash rivet stem broke off above the rivet head. I used a Dremmel Grinder bit to grind them down but with most of the Rivet stem I was able to knock them down with a Pin Punch and Hammer.|
|2012-12-05||Fitted the LH Wing Tip and Navigation Pod||Start fitted the LH Wing Tip to the Wing. It needed some cutting, filling to get it fit properly. This Tip did not fit as easy as the RH Wing Tip. The Fibreglass Tip was out of shape (not flat) therefore more difficult to fit. On the Main Spar Web Tip I have to cut off about 3mm and fitted a new bracket to it to make a better fit. I used Flash Rivets on the LE. Therefore I needed to countersink the Tip. To give it better support on the back of the LE Tip Flange I put a number of 0.025" 6061T6 Aluminium strips also where the holes are close to the edge(min was about 5mm). After refitting (clecoing) a few times it was time to fit the Lo Tek Navigation Pod with nut plates onto the Tip. Behind the Pod I cut out enough material to excess the cable connector. I also drilled a 1/4" holes in the Main Spar Wet Tip and fitted a grommets and the cable through it. Fitted the Navigation Light to Pod I did this also on the RH Wing. Re-clecoed the Tip. Fits all ok.|
|2012-12-11||Finished LH Wing Tip||Finished riveting the LH Wing Fibreglass Tip.
Start manufacturing LH Wing Support Frame
|2012-12-12||Finished LH Wing Support Frame||Finished LH Wing Support Frame|
|2012-12-14||Balanced LH Aileron||Balanced the LH Aileron, fitted LH Aileron and Flap to the LH Wing while the Wing was secured in the Wing Support Frame.
Fitted a new Control Stick (LH) and Control Stick Horn to the Control Stick assembly. Because it had about 3mm play (measured on top of the stick) I decided to replace these two parts with new ones. The Control Stick has no play now.
|2012-12-15||Control Stick PTT Switch||The two Hand grips I bought only one has a PTT Switch in it. I bought one mini Push Button Switch. I drilled out one Handgrip and glued with Araldite the Switch in after soldering some wires on it. Tested the Switch ok. I drilled in each Control Stick a 1/4" hole and put a grummet in it about 12mm from the bottom.
I fitted the Handgrips on the Sticks but I have to take them off because the Control Sticks need to be shorted later to fit underneath the Instrument Sub Panel.
|2012-12-15||Drilled holes for vents||Drilled the two 76mm holes in the Instrument Panel for the Air Ball Vents. I modified the Vents to fit with the least mounting space as possible. I made a template first to mark the locations.
Marked the location hole for the ASI.
|2012-12-16||Made test sub-panel||Made a Sub-Panel to try it out. The Sub-Panel need to be about 50mm instead of 40mm to fit all the Switches and Circuit Breakers nicely.
I will re-make one later
|2012-12-20||Eyeball Vents||Drilled the holes for the Nut plates on the two Eyeball Vents and rivet them. I used Silicon on the two modified Vent parts to make a airtight fit between them and on the Eyeball airflow adjusting part. These vents will be fitted on the Instrumentation Panel.|
|2012-12-22||Made Sub-Panel||Made a new Sub-Panel for underneath the Instrumentation Panel. Test fitted the Trim System Assembly after modifying the Angle Bracket what came with the System.|
|2012-12-23||Instrumentation Panel and Sub-Panel||Continue with the Sub-Panel. Drilled the holes for the 5 Switches, Key-Switch, Start button and the 4 Circuit Breakers. Test fitted them. Still need a 10Amp Breaker.|
|2012-12-24||Fitted Eyeball Vents.||Fitted the Eyeball Vents to the Instrumentation Panel. During this process I damage the Screws Heads but this is only a temporary test fit and will replace them later using the correct tool.
Cut the hole for the ASI in the Instrumentation Panel and fitted it to using temporary screws.
|2012-12-26||Drilled one Titanium Rod 1/4||Took both the LH an RH Main Gear Mount fittings out (I need them out for rigging the Wings later) of the Fuselage. Mark the 1/4" hole position in the RH Gear Mount and drilled a pilot hole on one side. Market the hole position in the Titanium Rod and Pilot drilled. Together with the Rod in the Gear Mount and clamped on the Drill press I pilot drilled with 3.2, 5.4 and then with the 1/4" drill using very low drill speed and lots of cutting oil. It took a long time to drill. The AN4 bold fits nice and tight.|
|2012-12-27||Drilled the 1/4" hole for the LH Titanium Rod||Marked and drilled the 1/4" hole into the Titanium Rod for the LH side Main Landing Gear fitting. I drilled this the same way but now I drill the Rod first.|
|2013-01-04||Finished drilling the LHMain Landing Gear Mnt||Marked and drilled the 1/4" hole in one side of the LH Landing Gear Mnt. Fitted the Titanium Rod in the Mount lined up with the Gear mnt and drilled it all through. De-burred and cleaned the holes. Test fitted the AN4 bold. This fit ok but not as tight as the other one. De-burred and cleaned up both Main Gear Mnt fitting. Temporary assembled with bolds and nuts in place.|
|2013-01-04||Rear Spar & Carry Through Parts||Start preparing for rigging the Wings but first I have the finish Drawing SNX-F03 Rear Spar & Carry Through. I cleaned up and pilot drilled some holes following the drawing. I still have to make 2 Spacers and up-drill the 1/4" holes. It getting to hot in the workshop 48 degrees C.|
|2013-02-02||Prepare for Wing Rigging||Prepare for Wing Rigging and Assemblied Flap Push Rod|
|2013-02-03||Wing rigging problem reply from Sonex||Yesterday I emailed Sonex about this problem. There reply was don't worry about the elongated holes in the Main Spar Web but replaced all the affected parts like the Wing Attach Angles on the Fuselage, Wing attach blocks and many more in total 14 parts I have to replace. Start taken the effected parts off the Wing and Fuselage.|
|2013-02-05||Continue Preparing for Wing Rigging||Relocated fuselage on the main workbench and test fitted wings through main spare channel.|
|2013-02-06||Rigging the Wings||With the help of two Sonex builders I rigged the Wings today to the Fuselage. To level the fuselage and wings I used a Laser. The drilling Main Spare through the Wing Attach Angles was very tricky and difficult I used a new step drilled what was a part of the Sonex Australia Wing rigging Kit|
|2013-02-07||Wing Rigging went wrong||After Wing rigging using the new 1/4" tip 3/8" drill (part of the new Australian Wing rigging kit) I discovered the next day after start taking the Wings off, that the drill has gone astray causing elongated holes in at-least 3 blocks and the Forwards Wing attach Angles.
The drill tip (pilot hole) was not dull but sharp. This causes the drill to wallowed out and the holes to become elongated.
I have to make new blocks, Forwards Wing attach Angles and probable the Aft Wing Attach Angle.
The problem is not difficult to fix but time consuming.
It is my fault not checking this drill for dullness. But with the 1/4” holes already drilled all the way through the Aft and Forwards Wing Attach Angles I did not realise this could happen.
After replacing the parts I will bolt the Wings to gather with the 3 temporary ¼” holes and drill the blocks up to the 3/8” size using 9/32 first, Then A 5/16, 3. Then A 11/32, 4. Then A 3/8. Final
Then I place the wing in the Fuselage bolt it together with the 3 temporary ¼” bolts and use the ¼” pilot 3/8” drill to drill the holes in the Forwards and Aft Wing Attach Angles.
I think this will work.
|2013-02-18||Machined 3/8" guiding bush||Picked up some material for making new Wing Attach Angles and machine a 3/8" with a 1/4" hole in the middle 5" long guiding bush.|
|2013-02-19||Forwards Wing Attach Angles||Start making new Forwards Wing Attach Angles.|
|2013-02-20||Making replacement parts.||Continue manufacturing replacement parts|
|2013-02-23||Start Engine Building||Cooled down the Engine Crankshaft for at least 12 in the freezer. Heated up Camshaft Drive Gear and Propeller Hub to About 250C. After quickly sliding several parts on the shaft I pressed using the Crankshaft Propeller Hub bold and impact driver the Hub on the Crankshaft. The hub moved quickly on the Shaft until the last 1/2" or so. To move it this last bit was very slow but it still keep progressing until it stopped against the oil slingers plate. Ans my wife helped me with holding the Crankshaft and sharing my nervousness.|
|2013-03-01||Cleaned and deburred engine parts||Cleaned and de-burred the two case halves. Start assembly case halves.|
|2013-03-05||Fitted Cylinder Heads and Pistons||Continue Engine work. Fitted Cylinder Heads and Pistons. Decided on 1 to 7 compression ratio.|
|2013-03-06||Fitted Cylinders||Start fitting Cylinder Heads and the Valve Shaft.|
|2013-03-08||Push Rods||Cut the 8 Push Rods to the correct length using the Push Rod tool supplied with Engine Kit. Pressed in the Rod ends. I have to heat up the rods and use the drill-press to push them as far I could and then hammer them in all the way. I used Aluminium to prevent damage.|
|2013-03-12||More Engine work||Adjusted valve clearance. Fitted valve covers Crankshaft Seal and Spacer. Fitted Flywheel and Aerovee parts up to inlet manifold.Took Engine off the support engine trolley/stand and fitted the Aerovee Engine mounting backplate to engine Bend Inlet Manifold Bracket to Clear Magnetos. Cleaned workshop.|
|2013-03-15||Continue Engine Building||Continue finishing Engine Building. Fitted CHT probes, oil temperature and pressure transducers and more Aerovee parts.|
|2013-03-16||Fitted Alternator||Fitted the alternator to engine Aerovee back-plate. Checked outside alternator rotor part for sufficient clearance between rotor and stator part.|
|2013-03-25||Start making more replacement parts||Start to make the Aft Wing Attach Angles to replace the spoiled ones during last time Wing Rigging.|
|2013-03-26||Make more replacement parts||Finished LH side Aft Wing Attach Angle. Start manufacturing Wing Attach Blocks.|
|2013-04-01||Bending Engine Baffle Parts.||I am awaiting replacement parts from Sonex to replace the spoiled parts during last time rigging. I decided to start working on the Baffle Kit. Start marking and bending the Baffle parts and test fitting them. It is very fiddle and not that easy to get them fitted correctly.|
|2013-04-02||Test fitted Baffle||Test Fitted Part of Baffle|
|2013-04-03||More Main Spar parts fabrication||Today I received the ordred parts from Sonex but I did not get the 1" x 1 1/4" bar stock. I recieved Angle line instead. Emailed Kerry to sort this out. Fabricated one Wing Attach block and a LH Root Attach Angle and fitted this to the LH Wing Spare.|
|2013-04-05||Rivet Root Wing Attach Angle.||Solid rivet the LH Root Wing Attach Angle to the Spare. This is only one rivet because on the other one I was able to drill out the previously riveted one and to replace it with a bold. Because the one I riveted is flash with the spare and I am not able to put a countersunk bold in anymore. I made one more attach block for the RH End Attach Angle. I now have to wait for bar stock to arrive from Sonex. I did a lot of experimental drilling and reaming. (Preparing from a second time rigging.)|
|2013-04-06||Finished attach block for the RH End Attach Angle. Did some more experimental drilling and reaming.(Preparing from a second time rigging.)|
|2013-04-08||Fitted newly made parts||Fitted RH end Root Attach Assemble. Removed RH Wing Root Attach Angle. Drilled out the two solid rivets it took a lot drilling and filing. I used the Dremmel tool to get the Angle off. Drilled and fitted the newly made Root Attach Angle. Cleaned workshop. Removed all Aft Tunnel parts, Instrument panel, Glare-shield and the Aft Wing Attach Angles on Fuselage making it ready for second time rigging. De-burred newly made Aft Wing Attach Angles. Still awaiting ordered bar stock.|
|2013-04-12||Start rigging Wings||Received parts and made up one more Wing Attach Block. Fitted it RH End Attach Angle. Fitted End Attach Angle.
Put both Wings on the long workbench. Bolted Wings together and with a undersize 3/8 step drill (front end step drill is slightly larger than 1/4") I drilled the RH side of the wing attach blocks. Did seems to work.
|2013-04-29||Continue re-rigging||Have been working a lot the last few weeks but now I have some time to finish rigging. With the Wing bolted together on the workbench I drilled the LH side Wing Attach Block through. Before doing this it was needed to file out the elongated holes in the Main Spar Web to prevent the drill during rigging to start touching the side wall of the holes and want to go wobbling out of alignment. I reamed both the LH and RH side out to 3/8". One block on each side was already drilled and reamed on the floor bolted drilling machine. The guidance bush about 125mm long I made from stainless steel with a 1/4" hole in the middle. This bush fits nicely into the Wing Attach Blocks en will be used for rigging it to the Fuselage Wing Attach Angles.|
|2013-04-30||Re-rigging Wings to Fuselage||After taking the Wing off the Workbench I moved the Fuselage on to the large workbench and position the wings into it. Bolted the Wings together and alight the wing to the correct position to the fuselage. I used a Laser tool.|
|2013-05-01||Finished re-rigging Wings||With the Wings inside to fuselage and correctly positioned I drilled first the 1/4" holes in to the Forwards Wing Attach Angles using the premade 3/8" bush fitted into the Wing Attach Blocks. Up-drilled to 3/8" (slightly smaller than 3/8") and put the 3/8" reamer through it. Fitted/clecoed the Aft Tunnel assemble and Aft Wing Attach Angle. Using the 3/8" bush I pilot drilled the Aft Wing Attach Angles. Up-drilled and reamed. Test fitted the 3/8 bolts nice fit. One of the 3/8 nuts have to be rounded off to prevent interfering with the Forwards Wing Attach Angles. Pilot drilled and up-drilled the rest of the Rear Spar Attach Angles and Channel. Finished re-rigging Wings only have to do the riveting.|
|2013-05-03||Riveting after Rigging|
|2013-05-03||Riveting after re-rigging||Riveted all parts on the Main Spare Tunnel, Aft Wing Attach Angles and the Rear Spare brackets and channel.
I ran out of flash rivets. Get some later. Pilot drilled, up-drilled, clecoed the Rear Spar Though Channel to the Fuselage. After de-burring and cleaning/spray painted riveted it all to the Fuselage.
|2013-05-04||Aligning Main landing Gear||Bolted Main Landing Gear on to the Fuselage. Bolted the Titanium Rods to it. After disassemble the Landing Gear Wheel slight Wheel Shaft part onto the Titanium Rod. I used a long square tube underneath the Fuselage clamped up against the Wheel Shafts using the provided tool (one part of the tool is not correct to small to fit around the shaft)to get the correct toe in. See photo for this setup. After the setup was correct I marked it.|
|2013-05-06||Continue Main Landings Gear||Finished drilling the second Titanium rods main landing gear.
Reassembled brakes and fitted both wheels to the wheel axles.
|2013-05-07||Installing Engine SNX-P30||I still have to put the 6 solid rivets in the Spar Tunnel. My wife helped me to keep the Bucket Bar on the head of the rivets. The Spar Tunnel riveting is finished.
After finishing the Tri-gear under carriage I decided to hang the Engine on. I checked the Engine again and secured it on a portable workbench. I raised it up with some wood to the correct high and rolled the Aircraft on the Engine Mount with the rubbers, washers and bolts securing it. I checked all the measurements as described on drawing P30. The measurements are, Propeller Centre line to the bottom of the Fuselage is 447mm instead of 444.5mm, Face of the Propeller Mount Hub to the front bottom of the Fuselage is 1031mm instead of 1036.8mm. The engine is 2mm of centre line.
I emailed Kerry to confirm if this is acceptable. He responded that the Engine was fitted very well. I also ask him about the torque for the 36A Engine Mounting bolts detail A because torque them to the 50-70 Inch-lbs the mounting rubbers are getting quite compressed. His replied was: There is no specific torque for the motor attach bolts. We snug them up until they are holding the engine firmly. After you fly a few hours and the rubber mounts settle in you will want to check those bolts to see if they can be tightened up a bit more
|2013-05-08||Mounting Horiz Stab SNX-T01||Start test mounting Horizontal Stabiliser.
Start filing off the Horiz Stab inner forwards Skin bit by bit. The Horiz Stab has to move about 10mm more forwards to get it in the correct position. The drawing asks for 82.6mm +/- 1.6mm.
|2013-05-09||Mount Horiz Stab SNX-101||Continue with Mounting the Horizontal Stabiliser. Slowly filling off bit by bit and after many times of test fitting the Horiz Stab it is now almost ready to fit.
After test fitting the vertical stab I had some problem to fit it in front of the horizontal stab therefore I have to file off some material off the aft fuselage skin notch
I first would like to test fit the whole Tail together included control services before drilling the holes.
|2013-05-10||Mount Horiz Stab SNX-T01||After test fitting the complete Tail included the control services and after adjusting, markings, and double-checking, I took the plunge and drilled the mounting holes for the horizontal stabilizer today. It is not easy clamping it in position but luckily the bottom skin is still removed. The upper horiz stab skins need to be notched to allow access to the 1/4" drill for the aft mounting bolts. Drilled a pilot hole, then took up to 5/16" with the unibit, and de-burred Up-elevator clearance elevator control horn interfere with the vertical stab I filed off some material to clear the inference and check the 160 degrees up-the elevator (25 degrees)|
|2013-05-11||Fitted anchor plates to Vertical Stabilizer||To get the Vertical Stabilizer properly fitted the Horz Stab has to be bolted in the correct position. Clamped the Vertical Stab to the Horz Stab angle bracket and marked to Vertical Stab plate. Drilled and fitted anchor nuts to it.|
|2013-05-12||Attaching the Rudder SNX-T01||After cleaning workshop I did a little bit work on the Rudder. Pilot drilled the half hinge while the rudder was attached to the vertical stab and clecoed. Start filling of the rudder horn and the stop plate corners where it interferes with rudder control. Have to file the RH rudder horn to get the 25 degrees rudder movement.|
|2013-05-18||Fitting Rudder and Elevator control||18 May 2013 SNX-T01 8Hrs
Up-drilled Rudder halve hinge, de-burred and riveted. I also riveted the upper firewall to the lower firewall Filled off LH rudder horn stop plate to get 25 degrees rudder movement. With Dremmel I grinded off some more material from the elevator horn. Test fitted the control rod that connects from the idler arm to the elevator drive horn. I have to grind off a little bit off the drive horn site of the control rod. Also I have to file off a little bit of the Aft Fuselage angle to clear the drive horn and rod and to give the Elevator full down wards movement up to the stop. Start fitting the Rudder control wires. I have to take the nylon inserts of the cable guidance blocks out the get the wires through. This was not so easy. Made the two cable adjuster for the rudder control.
|2013-05-20||Rudder Control SNX-C01||20 May 2013 SNX-C01 8Hrs
I forgot to ream the ¼” holes in the rudder pedal for the cable adjuster connection. I needed to take the rudder pedal out to get excess. The pedal is held to 3/8” from the firewall and the rudder is full left. I marked it on the cable adjuster, drilled, cut and filled it to the correct size. . The next step is to clamp the rudder into the neutral position, adjust the rudder pedals to be even and mark and drill the right cable adjuster. Start adjusting the nose wheel. I clamped a long aluminium 2” x 2” tube against the noise wheel and lined it up strait with the fuselage.
|2013-05-21||Continue Controls SNX-C01||21 May 2013 4Hrs
Continue adjusting the nose wheel. With the nose wheel lined up with the fuselage, I adjusted the nose gear drive rod until the rudder/rudder pedals are in neutral position. Checked rudder/nose wheel control free movement. The RH rudder cable is rubbing against the aft fuselage slit, after filling out a few mm off the slit bottom it is all ok. Secured all rudder/nose wheel control pivoting point’s castle nuts with split pins. Finished the rudder/nose wheel control. Start working on the elevator control rod. The control rod that connects from the idler arm to the elevator drive horn is made up of two pieces, a long aft section and a short forward segment. The short segment has a sleeve welded to it that the long section gets inserted into and is then mated to it. After setting the yoke frame 1.6mm from the spar tunnel I was not able to get the elevator at the down stop. I have to cut off a few mm of the long aft section. It is late now I will do this tomorrow.
|2013-05-22||Elevator Control SNX-C01||Elevator control. I cut off a few mm of the long aft section of the control rod. I discovered that the idler arm when fitted to the control yoke frame welded 1/4'” tube is slightly under an angle, the idler arm have to move about 5mm towards the centre. I will deal with this later. Fitted the aft control rod in the correct position, drilled pilot holes. Took it all out, up-drilled, de-burred and bolted the pieces together while it was back in the aft fuselage. Bolts are fitting nice and tight. Riveted the vertical aft fuselage channels supporting to the Elevator control rod. Greased part of the rod what moved through the vertical aft fuselage holes. Secured the castle nut on the Elevator control parts.
Start making flashing for the Tail section what going to cover the gap between the horizontal and vertical stabilisers. Make and fitted the 2 small ones. The larger ones need some bending and shaping to get a properly fit. This will take some time.
|2013-05-24||Fabricating Flaring||Start making the flaring on the Tail section between the Horizontal and vertical stabilisers.|
|2013-05-25||Continue flaring||Continue working flaring the Tail section it was sort of a trial and error to get them right and not so easy to get the correct shape without making to many dints in it.|
|2013-05-27||Finished Tail flaring, start Engine work||Finished Tail flaring. Start working on the Engine oil cooler part. Cut hole in oil cooler Baffle and fitted the cooler to the Baffle. Have to cut off some of the Engine block lugs what interfere with the baffle. Fitted the Baffle with Cooler underneath the engine block. Connected oil cooler with Hose and AN fittings to the oil pump.|
|2013-06-01||Engine Oil and Fuel system||Continue working on the Engine Oil and fuel System. Fit Throttle cable to the Aerovee fuel injector and the injector to the inlet manifold. I cut off about 20mm from the Rubber hose supplied with the engine to have to injector as high as possible to be able to fit the Air filter assemble underneath the aerovee injector. Marked and drilled the position of the air filter on the injector flange. I am awaiting an ordered AN 3 Tap and some fittings for the injector to the Gas collator.|
|2013-06-08||Engine, Forwards Firewall||Continue working on the Engine and Forwards Firewall. I received the fittings I ordered, connected hose and fitting to the gas collator and the aerovee injector. Fit the main solenoid using lug anchor nuts to the Firewall. I plan to fit parts “known to fail” using two lug anchor nuts for easier replacement. Start wiring Battery to solenoid. I am not able to crimp the large gauge 4 cables. I ordered a heavy duty crimper for only $49 from eBay.|
|2013-06-10||Nose wheel Pant||Nose wheel Pant. I have to take the Nose wheel assemble off the Engine mount. I dropped the Tail down almost all the way down to be able to get the Nose wheel assemble off. I tried to work out how to fit the Pant nicely. Bended the wheel pant holding plates and fitted it to the Wheel fork. Try to fit the Pant while bending the holding plates in the correct position. Marked the Pant position and drilled 2 holes enough to hold the Pant in position. Fitted the Pant and put the Nose wheel assemble back in the engine mount. I am not happy with the position of the Pant because it looks like not horizontal. I work on this problem later. (Friday)|
|2013-06-14||Continue fitting the Nose wheel Pant||Continue fitting the Nose wheel Pant. First I cut out enough space for the wheel to fit through using a dremmel sanding wheel. Fitting the Pant, but decided having it not fully level but lower on the back otherwise to much material have to be cut off. After finishing it off this looks ok. Took the Wheel off, marked the new holes to fit Pant to brackets drilled and fitted two of the four anchor 2 lugs nuts on. I need to order more anchor lugs nuts. This still took me the whole day.|
|2013-06-15||Brakes||Yesterday I received the heavy duty electrical lug crimper. I tested it out crimping the lugs for the 4 gauge aircraft electrical wire going from the positive battery terminal to the starter Motor and the main relay. This crimper is very good value for money. I used the 4 gauge electrical wire also for earthing the negative battery terminal to starter motor and engine.
I do more wiring later. Made and fitted the brake cable part needed for the brake cables through the Spar Tunnel. I drilled the holes in the Spar Tunnel with the air driven 90 degrees drill. Drilled the holes through the bottom forwards fuselage skin and temporary fitted the brake cables. I need some rubber grommets and more material for brake handle and the 1” roller attach bracket.
|2013-06-17||Cleaned Fuel Tank||Cleaned fuel tank, I did have not enough kerosene. Have to do a bit more cleaning later. Test fitted some fittings from the gas collator to the fuel tank shut off value. I was not able to get anything else than steel ones but Sonex said this is ok.
Marked and cut the main wheel pants. Drilled a 45mm hole using a hole cutter and cut out the slot clearing the main wheel titanium rod.
|2013-06-18||Fitted Main wheel pants||Continue fitting the Main wheel pants. I filed the bottom of both wheel Pants flat and level and checked wheel clearance. Drilled pilot holes in the RH pant. To have to bottom of the pant level I used a laser light. Market the hole for the screws on the brake plate. I took the wheel and brake shoes off before drilling, to prevent damaging done and interference with the brake shoes. I awaiting a 10 – 28 tap to tap the screw holes in the brake plate and wheel axle. Re-fitted the wheel, almost finished the RH wheel pant.|
|2013-06-22||Fitted LH wheel pant||Fitted LH wheel pant.
I received the AN3 tap (10x28) tapped the RH brake plate and the centre wheel shaft. Marked and drilled the mounting holes in the Fibreglass Pant. Put the Pant on the LH Main wheel and marked the holes to be drilled in the Brake plate. I took the whole wheel, wheel bearings and Brake shoes off. I used the laser to have level with the floor. Drilled and tapped the brake plate and centre shaft. Test fitted the Wheel pant. Re-fitted bearings and Wheel.
|2013-06-24||EGT fitted||Friday I received the Enigma System. Marked and drilled the 4 exhaust pipes for the EGT. The EGT Temp probes need to be 4” from the manifolds flange. After marking I took the pipes off the engine and drilled the 4.7mm hole. I needed to file out just a little bit to make them fit in the exhaust pipe. Tighten up the clamps and cut off some off the clamp material. Fitted the oil separator and RDAC engine monitoring module on the LH top side of the lower firewall. The Oil separator will be riveted. I fitted the RDAC temporary with the AN3 castle nut. I will replace them with anchor lug nut later.|
|2013-06-26||Instrumentation Panel||Marked and cut out using a Dremmel cutting disk the 120mm x 195mm spacing to fit the Enigma EFIS. I wanted it a nice fit and took my time filing it in till it fit in without much play and nice and straight. Cut out using a 2 ¼” hole saw the space for the MGL V6 Transceiver. Made a template for the V6 screw holes. Test fitted the V6 inside the template. It fits reasonably well, filed out the screw holes to have a nice fit. Also the V6 has to move about 0.5mm to have it centred inside the 57mm hole. Clamped the template straight and in the correct position on the Instrumentation Panel. Drilled the screw holes and test fitted the V6 using M3 screw. It fits very nicely.|
|2013-06-27||Test Sub Panel||Drilled mounting holes for Enigma and mounted all Instruments and Ball Vents on the Instrumentation Panel. Clecoed the Sub Panel and looked at it for a while. I am going to make a new Sub Panel|
|2013-06-28||Re-made Sub Panel||Some of the switches on the previous sub panel where in line and the distant between the Circuit breakers where not equal made to far apart. I fitted all the Breakers again each order. There are taken up less space. I connected all the blade connectors together. I use a bus bar strip and solder 6 blade connector on it; the same distant as the breaker connector are apart. I test fitted the bus bar with connector onto the Circuit Breakers. I have to figure how I can insulate them. I lay out, drilled and test fitted all the switches and the Headphone connectors. I decided not have the Main Key switch on the Sub-Panel. Still have not decided where to put the Key Switch but probable on the outer LH corner of the Panel. Drill almost all the riveting holes in the Sub-Panel. I will test fit it tomorrow after trimmed a little bit off the ends.|
|2013-06-29||Test fit Instrument Panel||Instrumentation panel test fitted and trimmed a bit off the ends of the Sub-Panel. Cleaned and de-burred all holes and riveted. Cut and filed out the hole for the main key switch. Cleaned and primed the instrumentation panel. Spray painted the first coat.|
|2013-06-30||Spray painted Panel||Finely sanded the first coat and sprayed the second coat on.|
|2013-07-01||Leak tested fuel tank||Finely sanded using 1200 grid sand paper and sprayed the third coat. Cleaned out the Fuel tank using kerosene. Fitted all the fittings used on the tank apart from the fuel level probe (put in temporary fitting) using treat past and leak tested the Tank, pressurising it to about 3 PSI.
After the paint on the panel was dried up enough I start fitting the switches, circuit breakers and instrument to the panel.
|2013-07-03||Start wiring||With the glare shield off I temporary fitted the fuel-tank. Made up the fuel line with fitting from tank to firewall and gas-collator. Start test wiring the instrumentation panel and Engine sensors.|
|2013-07-05||Instrumentation wiring||Continue working on instrumentation wiring, fitted SP6 and 7 temporally and tried out EFIS|
|2013-07-06||Continue wiring||Continue wiring. Re test fitted glare-shield without fuel-tank.|
|2013-07-08||Testing EFIS and Transceiver||Continue wiring and trying out EFIS and Transceiver.|
|2013-07-12||Installed seat-belts||Installed seat-belts|
|2013-07-13||Miscellaneous||All type of bits and pieces. Cleaning up workshop and preparing for Sport Aircraft Club SA and AAC workshop visit.
I attached some photo's from the Workshop visit.
Off the USA (Oshkosh EAA Airshow) Holland and France. Back in 10 weeks
|2013-10-01||Lower firewall Anchor Nuts||Back to building after 10 weeks. Where do I start? To get back into it I started to put some more Anchore Nuts on the Lower firewall, fitted/riveted some anchor nuts for ignition coils, engine monitoring unit (RDAC)and so on. This makes it easier to replace if needed.|
|2013-10-04||AeroConversions Trim System trim system||Finished fitting anchor nuts. Start fitting trim system. After fitting the springs I noticed that the front spring what is connected to the duel control system is interfering with the ailerons control but only if it is moved to the far left and right. Apart from this problem the rest of the installation was fairly easy.|
|2013-10-05||AeroConversions Trim System trim system||Finished Trim system. Next problem were do I fit the aerial for the Transceiver.|
|2013-10-07||Transceiver Aerial||Transceiver Aerial. First made I template to fit the mounting base of the aerial. I used this template to get the correct position for the aerial to fit on top of the aft Fuselage. The aerial cannot befitted precisely in the middle but have to be about 15mm offset to the left. Drilled the holes, made a support bracket what is going to be riveted to the top of the support channel. After mounting the aerial I noticed that it was not straight but leaning to the left. I made an angle plate to fit underneath the left hand side of the aerial angled enough to have the aerial nice and straight. In addition to this I cleared a little bit of the material underneath the mounting part of the aerial just enough to clear the rivets heads already there on top of the aft fuselage. It looks pretty good and straight.|
|2013-10-08||MGL Enigma compass||Finished mounting the aerial. Made and fitted/riveted a support bracket for the MGL Enigma compass. This compass sensor needs to be away from magnetic metal and high current wires. I decided to fit it on top of the 3th cross channel in the aft fuselage. I would still be able to get excess to it if needed. I still need to get some non ferrous screws and nuts.|
|2013-10-09||RG400 transceiver cable||Run wires from the Enigma compass to the front. Fitted crimp connectors on the RG400 transceiver cable.|
|2013-10-14||wiring the Instrumentation panel||Start wiring the Instrumentation panel.|
|2013-10-15||More wiring||Continues wiring instrumentation panel.|
|2013-10-16||Control movement interfering||I had some issues with control movement interfering with the bolts/nut on the main landing gear fitted to the main spar tunnel and the welded trim spring triangle. After contacted Sonex I shorted the bolds minimal 2 turns above nut and the stop welded end of control stop rod by about 4mm. I fitted the 2 control stick handles I bought a long time ago.|
|2013-10-19||PTT Control Sticks||Wired up the PTT buttons on both control sticks.|
|2013-10-20||Finished wiring PTT||Finished wiring PTT buttons and cleaned workshop|
|2013-10-26||Ignition wiring||Continues Instrumentation panel wiring run wires from magnetos and Electronic Ignition to the 2 switches on the Instrument panel. The Electronic Ignition is wired through a 10Amp circuit breaker|
|2013-10-27||Navigation lights||Instrumentation panel wiring, fitted the negative busbar to the support channel on the instrument panel. Wired the navigation lights cables to the navigation switch and circuit breaker. I also put in a Transorb across the Transceiver and the EFIS and a 10,000Uf Capacitor between the positive and negative power supply.|
|2013-10-28||Start Botton||continues instrumentation panel wiring. Wired up the engine start botton. Replaced the power available led light. The previous one has burn out. In this one I put a 100ohm resister inline. This dropped the voltage by about 3V. Light is still bright.|
|2013-10-29||Securing the wires||Continues instrument panel wiring. I start securing the wires behind the instrumentation panel.|
|2013-10-30||Turning the Engine||30 October 2013 5hrs After turning on the Main switch and pushing the Engine start bottom the starter motor works. I experimented with the backup battery connected to the EFIS. Turned on the EFIS and the Transceiver. There is still a little bit of interference coming from the EFIS into the Transceiver. I hope I can improve this interference with using a few more of these Ferrite beads.|
|2013-10-31||ASI piton and static ports||Fitted connectors and hoses to the analogue and EFIS ASI piton and static ports. Secured the tubing with clamps and cable-ties.|
|2013-11-01||Securing bundles of wires||Continue wiring on the Instrumentation panel and Forwards firewall. Secured bundles of wires with wire-rap, cable-ties and clamps. I have used many anchor nuts to make replacement easier on the Forwards Firewall|
|2013-11-02||Braided Fuel Hose||I decided to use the Stainless steel braided fuel hose instead of aluminium pipe fuel line. I received some fitting today. Made up the fuel connection from the Gas collator to the tank. I could not finish this connection until the tank was in the correct position. Drilled the holes for the Magnetic compass what will be fitted as a backup on the Glare-Shield. Also drilled the hole in the Glare-shield for EFIS GPS cable. The GPS Aerial block will be located on the front of the glare-shield|
|2013-11-04||Riveted Glare-shield||Tidied up instrumentation wiring using cable-ties. Cleaned up, primed and clecoed the Glare-shield. I first want to put in the 6 screws in to fit the Glare-shield to the Forwards Fuselage. It was not easy to put the washer and nut on the screws from underneath the glare-shield. Ans helped me while I was laying underneath the Glare-shield getting the washer and nut on the Screws. After this was done I riveted the Glare-shield to the Forwards Fuselage Longerons.|
|2013-11-06||Fitted Fuel Tank||Today I Fitted the Fuel Tank. I leak tested the tank already a while ago. To get the tank in the correct position, took me a while. During pushing the Tank using my feet the front of the tank was moving sideways. After guiding it with the help of two 20mm thick pieces of wood fitted in the “upper forwards firewall fuel filling part” the tank moved in the correct position. Ans help me with holding and preventing the bolds from turning, while I was laying underneath the Tank fitting the tank straps in. The front straps due to access was the most difficult to fit. With some difficulties I fitted rear straps together, this secured the tank.|
|2013-11-08||Tank and Glare-shield||(2hrs on Tank) Bolted the 2 front straps together and riveted the two angle pieces to the Glare-Shield. These angel pieces are used to prevent the tank from sliding backwards. Marked ,cut and fitted the Stainless Steel braided Fuel line between the Gas-collator and the Fuel tank.
Drawing SNX-D01. Collected and manufactured parts needed for fitting the Wind Screen and Canopy. Made the following parts: D02-07, 10, 11, 13, 17, 18, 19 and 21.
|2013-11-09||Drawing D02 and D01||Finished making D02-12 and 16. Bended Windshield bow until as close as possible to Drawing specification cut and fitted. Start test fitting the windshield.
|2013-11-10||Drawing D02 Cut Wind Screen||Drawing D02 Cut Wind Screen with Jigsaw and vixen file bit by bit. Spent whole day cutting and fitting.|
|2013-11-12||Fitting the Wind Shield||Continue working fitting the Wind Shield. Did lots of filing using vixen file. Wind Shield is moving slowly forwards and almost ready for drilling. I used straps on the front and rear of Wind Shield to keep it in place.|
|2013-11-13||Marked and drilled Wind-shield||Marked and drilled 3.4mm holes thought front of the Wind Shield. Used holes in top of Upper Firewall Strip as template. Countersink Wind Shield, used screw and nuts to temporary hold it on. All MS24693S48 Screws displayed on drawing are to short. Have to replace them with MS24693S50.
Wind Shield is still not at the correct size. Marked the rear of the Wind Shield. Removed Wind Shield, cut and it to the correct size. Also filed more off the side of the Wind Shield.
|2013-11-15||Continue Wind-shield||Continue working on Wind Shield. Refitted Wind Shield, drilled holes using holes in Forward Fuselage Skin as template after bending upper edge of skin to about the correct angle to be in line with Wind Shield. Still have to bend it a bit more later. Marked, drilled and Tap with UNC 8 x 32 holes in Wind Shield through Strip and Bow. Made sure holes are in the centre of Bow material. Fitted Screws.|
|2013-11-16||More Wind-shield work||Removed wind shield, dimpled Upper Fuselage Skin and countersink Rear of Wind Shield. Re-tapped Wind Shield Bow. Fitted Wind Shield after filing a little bit off the side of Wind Shield. Still need a little bit more off in the front of the side part.|
|2013-11-17||Study Drawing SNX-D01||Cleaning up workshop, study Drawing D01 Canopy part and made list part still needed to finish Aircraft.|
|2013-11-18||Drawing SNX-D01 Canopy||First cut on Canopy following the outer edge of the tape what was already on the Canopy material. I followed the video instruction on the Sonex website and also made the wooden support pieces cut and sanded to the correct contour of the aft fuselage bulkhead . Test fitted Canopy several times. I put masking tape on the outside of area what have to be cut further. I sanded the cut edges smoove before cutting it again.On a piece of scrap channel I glued on 80 grid sanding paper. This material sand very easy. This was a good day to do some canopy work with the temperature in the workshop of 33C.|
|2013-11-19||More Canopy work||I is a lot cooler today. I did more fitting and sanding today. With fitting it on my own it is easier to damage the canopy. Drilled, de-burred and riveted the Canopy hinge to the RH forwards upper Longeron. I was not happy with the top side of the canopy hinge because the holes in the Canopy material would be to close near the edge. I decided to make a new one.|
|2013-11-20||Canopy frame work||Start working on the Canopy frame. Spend the whole day trying to get forwards Canopy bow to line up and fit with the contour of the Windscreen. I made and fitted 9 sets of aluminium small plates with holes in it and 9 wooden spacers to keep the forwards Canopy bow on the correct distance from the Windscreen. I fitted these plates on the top and bottom Windscreen with screws. When the forwards Canopy Bow is bended and cut to the correct contour and size it will help keeping the bow and the front of the Canopy in place. Assembled the Hook Rail Assemble and ordered a metal drawer pull from eBay.|
|2013-11-22||Replacing Pin Clips Nikasil Pistons||The Pin Clips on the Aerovee Nikasil Pistons have to be replaced due to problems in the past. Sonex advice my to do it even I took care during installation of the previous ones. The service alert to replace them came out one week after a finished putting the Engine together. Started replacing the Pin Clips on the RH Engine side.
|2013-11-22||Rear Canopy bow||Made Start with the Rear Canopy bow. After the Rear Canopy bow was basically on the correct contour and size I screwed some modified plastic clamps to the wooden support pieces to hold the Bow in place. I fitted the Canopy and it looks pretty close. I have to do some cutting on the sides of the Canopy before I can do drilling. I did not have any help available and the workshop is rather cool therefore I decided to wait with this until next week.
|2013-11-23||Replacing all Pin Clips||Finished replacing the Pin Clips on the Aerovee, readjusted the tappets. Fitted and wired up the Ignition Coils on the Firewall. Cleaned up workshop.|
|2013-11-25||More Canopy Trim and Engine wiring||In the morning I worked on the Engine wiring and start fitting the rear Baffle. After the workshop has warmed up with the help of Ans I marked the second Canopy trim and cut the front and rear of the Canopy with using the Bend saw. After cutting I sanded the edges smoove. I fitted, sanded and fitted many times. It getting closer but not right there yet.|
|2013-11-26||Engine Baffle and more||26 November 2013 8hrs Because Ans is not able to help me with the Canopy I spent most time on the Engine. Made up the Engine breathing system. Bended some pipe and cut of pieces of Rubber hose and connecting it through the Rear Baffle plate on to the Oil vapour/condenser collector. Drilled and tapped two holes to secure rear Baffle plate to Engine.
Start putting the upper Spark Plugs lead from the Magnetos through the Rear Baffle I need to get a grommet first before I can finish that. Doing a bit more work on the Baffle. Fitted the side Baffles on the Engine. Later in the afternoon with the help of Ans I did a bit more on the Canopy. Marked the sides and cut it using the bend saw. After cutting I did more sanding fitting and sanding
|2013-11-27||Canopy and more||In the morning a bit more Engine Baffle works. On the Rear Canopy Bow I decided to bend it bit better. First I drew out the dimensions G and H (drawing D02-06) on the workbench. With all these points marked out I laid the Rear Canopy Bow over it and bend it a bit more in shape. Test fitted the reshaped Bow on the Canopy frame and temporary secured it. I then used a strap around the Canopy to keep the Canopy in place and checked. Still need to sand of a bit here and there. Because the workshop is still very warm I start drilling the first pilot holes through the Canopy in the Rear Bow. I took the strap off and pushed the sites of the Canopy with a piece of wood what was clamped onto the workbench and the Drill stand table to keep the sides in place. I drilled all the pilot holes in the RH side and most of the holes LH side and the front Bow. It was getting late and the temperature has gone down therefore I stopped.|
|2013-11-27||Reshaped Canopy Bow||In the morning I did a bit more Engine Baffle works. On the Rear Canopy Bow I decided to bend it bit better. First I drew out the dimensions G and H (drawing D02-06) on the workbench. With all these points marked out I laid the Rear Canopy Bow over it and bend it a bit more in shape. Test fitted the reshaped Bow on the Canopy frame and temporary secured it. I then used a strap around the Canopy to keep the Canopy in place and checked. Still need to sand of a bit here and there. Because the workshop is still very warm I start drilling the first pilot holes through the Canopy in the Rear Bow. I took the strap off and pushed the sites of the Canopy with a piece of wood what was clamped onto the workbench and the Drill stand table to keep the sides in place. I drilled all the pilot holes in the RH side and most of the holes LH side and the front Bow. It was getting late and the temperature has gone down therefore I stopped.|
|2013-11-28||More Engine Baffle work||It is raining and to cold to do more drilling on the Canopy and therefore more Engine work. I fitted a modified grommet onto the rear Baffle plate. I pulled the top Magneto Spark Plugs wires through it and fitted it to the Spark plugs. Also a used the same grommet hole to pull all the CHT probes through it and connected it to the RDAC Enigma system. I little bit more work on the Baffle before I call it a day.|
|2013-11-29||Baffle work in the morning||More Baffle work in the morning I almost finished to bottom part of the Baffle. I fitted all the Bolts and self tappers screws after bending, cutting and filing it in place. This all was a little bit tricky but maybe I am too fussy. Al the front parts are now clecoed together.
|2013-11-29||Completed Pilot holes drilling||After the workshop warmed up I finished pilot holes drilling. No cracks yet. I continue with countersinking and up drilling to 3.6mm the Canopy material the same time, first the rear Bow and the Front Bow. After that I up drilled to 3.6mm all the pilot holes on both sides of the Canopy. I made sure the drill I used was blunt and during drilling the material was supported at the back. I still have Tap the UNC 6 x 32 holes in the Canopy Bows but I need to get a 2.7mm drill first.
I have not drilled the pilot holes for the Canopy frame work yet. Start fitting the Canopy Cross Tube D02-10
|2013-11-30||Up-drilled Canopy Frame holes||Cleaned workshop and took Canopy of the frame. De-burred all the drilled holes in the Canopy. With 180 grit sanding paper I sanded all the edges of the Canopy . Pilot drilled and up-drilled all the holes to keep the Canopy frame together. Fitted the Handle on the Canopy frame.|
|2013-12-01||More Canopy work||Continue working on the Canopy. Get a 2.7mm drill. Up-drilled and tapped all the UNC 6 X 32 holes and fitted the screw in. I did not tightening the too much. Pilot drilled the first few holes in the Canopy Frame. I do the rest of the pilot holes later when the Canopy is off the frame. This gives me more room.|
|2013-12-04||More Canopy frame work||Engine work did a bit more work on the Baffle and later on more work on the Canopy frame|
|2013-12-05||Primed and riveted Canopy frame||Before riveting the Canopy frame together, I primed and spray painted it. Because the Windscreen was off the Plane I decided to glue the Glare shield upholstery using spray adhesive. During using spray adhesive I spilled a little bit on the Glare-Shield material and try to clean it off. This is not easy. Riveted the Canopy frame together.|
|2013-12-10||Re-glued Glare-shield Upholstery||10 December 2013 5hrs. I was not happy with the upholstery on the Glare Shield. This morning it was all ripples with air bobbles under it. I decided to do it again but not with spray adhesive. I cleaned the adhesive off and used a paint brush to put the adhesive on the Glare-shield and the material. I did first the RHS and then the LHS. This looks better but it may change when the workshop is cooler. I tried to clean off some more of the spilled adhesive. The best stuff is Eucalyptus oil. I got most of it off.|
|2013-12-11||Riveted LHS||11 December 2013 6hrs Riveted the LHS of the Canopy to the Canopy Frame. Before that I sanded the LHS Canopy down 1 to 2mm to prevent to Canopy material to be below the frame tubing. Spray painted to front of the Bulkhead.|
|2013-12-13||Finished Canopy, re-fitted Wind Shield||Drilled a few more holes through the Hinge on the RHS, Canopy material and frame. Made I little space for the front side RHS canopy to frame. This will secure the Canopy better to the frame. Riveted the RHS what is the Hinge part of the Canopy to the Canopy frame. Ans helped me with fitting the Windshield. I got the correct size screws now. All the screws following the drawing were not long enough. I am very happy with the Canopy/Windshield fit and no cracks.|
|2013-12-14||Miscellaneous||14 December 2013. 8hrs. Made up four spark plugs leads for the bottom Spark Plugs and fitted them to the Ignition Coils. Tightened up the exhaust bold on the Engine. Fitted and nicely rolled up the excess wire for the GPS aerial and secured with cable ties. Cleaned up the cabin and start fitting the upholstery on the LHS. Took the Flap control setting bracket off. Fitted Anchor nuts for the easy mounting of the Flap Control Bracket when the upholstery is on. Made a bracket for the Throttle control and cut groove in upholstery for Throttle Control Bracket. Test fitted the LHS upholstery with the Throttle control in place. Put seats in and test fitted myself with the Canopy closed and I am very happy with the result. Time to call it a day.|
|2013-12-16||Test fitted Upholstery||Test fitted both side upholstery , drilled mounting hole through upholstery into brackets. Clecoed until I get some nice screw for them. Try to fix slight fuel leak on the fuel flow sensor. Start making all the Hinges for the Cowl Drawing P13.|
|2013-12-22||Hinges||Finished making Cowl Hinges. Made Fuel Door Assemble and riveted. Fitted screws to both side upholstery and try to fix the second time the fuel leak on the fuel flow sensor.|
|2013-12-24||Machined Cowl Alignment spacer||Machined Cowl Alignment spacer detail B Drawing P13 from particle board. Fitted Spacer to Proper Hub.|
|2013-12-26||Repaired Fuel Leak||Fix fuel leak between Gas Collator and fuel flow sensor. I used instructions to properly tightening the ¼” NPT adaptor into the Fuel Flow sensor. Previously it was not tight enough. No leaks anymore.|
|2013-12-27||Start Cowl Drawing SNX-P13.||Start fitting the Cowl Drawing SNX-P13. After read the instructions carefully I started with the RH Cowl. Cut and filed the Propeller clearance on both side Cowls. Drilled and fitted to Cowl to the Alignment spacer. Measured marked and cut the RH Cowl side and top. First with Bend saw and figure hand saw and after that it was a question of fitting, measuring, filing and sanding several times. I was thinking this never going to fit.|
|2013-12-28||Continue with the RH Cowl||Drawing SNX-P13 I took it very slowly, I files/sanded off a few mm at the time from the side of the Cowl most on the bottom to less on the top. Very imported is to make sure to look very careful where the Cowl material touches the Windscreen material while the sides are lined up. The bottom of the Cowl has to be in line with the Fuselage bottom. I getting closer, still have to go a few more mm up. At worked out 3mm off the bottom side of the cowl brings the bottom part up about 2mm. Glad I don’t have a fibreglass Aircraft to build.|
|2013-12-30||ContinueRH Cowl SNX-P13||Continue with the RH Cowl SNX-P13. Filed/sanded off some more material off the side and a little bit from to RH top until it was flash with the bottom Fuselage. Fitted halve Hinge -07 and marked it from the inside of the Cowl. Drilled a few pilot holes through the hinge into the side of the Cowl. Clecoed and test fitted ok. Drilled rest of pilot holes and clecoed. Made slot in the side of Cowl for Hinge pin. Marked the holes on the top of Cowl for the Southco fasteners. Drilled and test fitted the Southco fasteners. To make them to lock I have to press the Southco recipients’ up. I used multi -grips for this. (To prevent damage I used aluminium on top). This works ok. Marking the Top of the Cowl using the laser was not so successful and decided to use a string from top of the middle of the Fuselage Bulkhead to middle of Engine Propeller Hub. Marked cutting line and cut to size with a Dremmel cutting wheel. Used sanding block to sand it the marked size.|
|2013-12-31||Continue RH Cowl SNX-P13||The bottom corner RH Cowl is interfering with the Lower Fuselage corner Angle leaving a little gap to the lower side of the Cowl. After filing out some material inside the Cowl it got a bit better. I clamped the bottom of the LH Cowl while it was fitted correctly, marked, cut and sanded it a few time until I was happy. I clamped and pushed the bottom of the Cowl against the installed halve Hinge. Marked position while the bottom of the Cowl was not sagging. Pilot drilled four holes, clecoed and test fitted. Pilot drilled the rest of the holes and clecoed. There is about 10mm space between Cowl and Aervee Air-filter.|
|2014-01-02||started the LH Cowl halve||Start LHS Cowl. I leave the RHS Cowl for a while and started the LH Cowl. Start marking and cutting the side of the Cowl using the Dremmel cutting wheel what works well. After a few time test fitting, sanding and more test fitting the LH Cowl start to get fairly close. Do some more on Saturday.|
|2014-01-04||Fitted both halve Cowls||Continue fitting LH Cowl. After a few more mm sanding off the Cowl side especially the lower part the top and bottom corners are in the correct position. I fitted RH side Cowl on it to, market and cut some more material off from the top. Still have to do the final cut later. After some all around cutting and sanding I marked to side and bottom of the LH Cowl for the Hinges. Pilot drilled the side and bottom hinge (bottom hinge I did only 4 of them do the rest later). Clecoed and fitted looks all ok. The lower part of both Cowl halves are not lining up yet but it gets fairly close. Marked and drilled the holes for the Southco Fasteners and fitted. One fits two still needs adjustment.|
|2014-01-06||Continue with both halve Cowls sides||Adjusted Southco recipients, one is still a bit hard to lock. Will look at it later. Filed a bit more off the LH side top of the Cowl. Positioned, clamped, pilot drilled and clecoed the top RH side halve hinge to the LH cowl. Marked the cut out the Fuel Tank filler area. After test fitting the cowl LH halve, the Tank filler cut out still need to be sanded further. Made a template for the top Cowl Hinge. This make it a lot easier to get the Hinge fitted correctly. Drilled the pilot holes in the LH top halve Cowl for the Cowl Hinge using the Template. After test fitting I pilot drilled the rest of the holes, clecoed and test fitted ok. Marked and cut the 12.5” x 4” cut outs for the Exhausts and vent. Sanded it to size. For the moment I am not using the Hinges on the bottom aft of the Cowl. Because of the Exhaust cut out I can now easily clamp both Cowls Halve together. After clamping both sides together there is still about 7mm gap between both Cowl Halves. I noticed that the Cowl Halves in front of the Nose wheel still need to be trimmed further. I used the Laser to mark a straight line. The LH Cowl halve need to be trimmed. After trimming the 7mm gap get smaller. It need further trimming tomorrow.|
|2014-01-07||More Cowl work||Continue trimming the two halve Cowls mainly on the lower front part. I also have to take off a bit more of the lower back where it is hinged with the Fuselage. At the back were the two halves joint together there is still about 3mm gap. I mark and cut the oil cooler vent, it still need to be cut the correct side later. I mistakenly cut wrong and needed to do some Fibreglass repair. This was not difficult. The Fuel Filler lid also was made wrong I am making a new one. I worked the whole day on the Cowl but for my feeling I did not progress much.|
|2014-01-08||Continue Cowl work||Trimming more and more from the back.|
|2014-01-10||Continue Cowl work||I am not happy with the bottom part of the cowl. Continue to make it fit.|
|2014-01-13||Refitting the Cowl||I was not happy with the way I have to force the bottom part of the Cowl into position. Also after I test fitted the Prop, the gap between the Prop and the Cowl is only about 2.5mm. I decided to start again. Took Hinges off and filled all drilled holes with Fibreglass. Do more tomorrow it is about 40C in the workshop I decided to go for a bike ride.|
|2014-01-14||More Cowl work||Reposition front of Cowl on Prop Hub as shown on instruction photos. The gaps between the two halve Cowls are now larger, about 6 mm. I decided to ignore this and start taking more off the back. Slowly it starts to fit better and the gap on the bottom start to get smaller. It is boiling hot now in the workshop (50C) even with both roller doors open. I decided to stop with it.|
|2014-01-15||It start to fit better||Slowly both Cowl halves start to fit without forcing it after taking more material off the rear and the lower rear. It still has a gap of 3 or 4mm. I reposition the Cowl on the Prop Hub to reduce the gap. After clamping and taping the Cowl to the Fuselage it looks ok. I worked most of the afternoon during 46C in the workshop.|
|2014-01-21||Re-pilot drilled||Continue Cowl work, sanded more material from the rear and test fitted many times. Re-pilot drilled halve hinges both Cowl halves sides and clecoed.|
|2014-01-22||Re-drilled and clecoed||Still more sanding and test fitting both Cowl halves. Re-drilled and clecoed Cowl halve hinges and Southco fasteners. Start making the 60 degrees exhaust Lip.|
|2014-01-25||Cowl is fitting properly||Filed out 4” x 12.5” rear Cowl vent to size and made up 1” high 60 degrees exhaust Lip. Fitted, pilot drilled and clecoed. Up-drilled and counter sinking all pilot holes. Start de-burring and riveting|
|2014-01-28||Riveted hinges||Finished de-burring. Riveted all hinges apart the RH top halve hinge. Start Lower Baffle.|